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SR 510 1/4 Mile estimate?


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Any educated guesses on what a 510 with a mildly modified Red Top S13 SR20DET (intercooler, full exhaust, stock turbo) would run on the 1/4 mile. I know there's a lot more variables to it than that, so lets just say if it hooked no problem and no driver errors. Looking for a good power to weight estimate drag time.

 

Cheers!

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300 hp? on stock weight should be just over 13 sec. Very rough estimate I would think. This could easily be bettered with tires/LSD/lower diff ratio etc.

 

1/4 mile times are not a good yard stick for measuring a car's 'performance' with. It used to be, back in the muscle car era where straight line acceleration was everything and handling (what's that?) wasn't even secondary or even thought of. Today they aren't used that much, true they are in car mags like road and track but only because they are written by old school bastards. (or for them) Today's cars and drivers are more sophisticated and 'evolved'. :D

 

Having said all that, a sub 14 second 1/4 mile is very impressive. Nice!

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Let me say that in a 3200lb front wheel drive car with 300hp I was able to cut a 12.2 and I had to drive the wheels off the car to hit that time. my best 60' was a 1.8.

 

510's are hard to get good times in a 1/4 mile because of their suspension. the IRS squats too much, cambers the tires and you don't get the maximum amount of traction. But that doesn't mean that they can't hit a good time.

 

 

Good driver in a 300hp 510 with a good suspension setup should be around 11.8@107mph

bad driver in a 300hp 510 with a good suspension setup should be around 13.1@111mph

Good Driver in a 300hp 510 with a bad suspension setup should be around 12.9@109mph

Bad driver in a 300hp 510 with a bad suspension setup should be around 14.2@110mph

 

Good driver means good 60' means lower ET but faster time

Bad Driver means bad 60' means faster ET but slower time

 

I agree that a 1/4 mile time is not an accurate way of equating one's horsepower but it does get you in a general ball park area if combined with the known weight of the vehicle and the trap speed.

 

I find it very interesting to see that when you cut a good 60' you trap speed drops, took me a while to understand why that happens.

 

There is a reason that you don't see too many 510's at the track, they are not built for straight line performance, they are built to handle around a corner. Not to say that they can not go fast in a straight line, but most people that want to do that would pick a car with a solid rear axle to start out with a better platform. Yes there are guys with IRS that can go fast down the track, but i can guarentee you that with a solid rear put in the same vehicle, you would not go back to IRS if your intention is to keep it a straight line vehicle. Just too much traction footprint lost when you have IRS off the line. Most of the vehicles that have IRS and post very fast times make up for it by very soft slicks with low tire pressure, stiff rear sway bars, and excess power to back it up.

 

Key in for example:

Corvettes: Excess power to keep their back half time up, and they have a swaybar and a heavy leaf spring that also helps keep their back end from squatting

 

9 second S14 with the KA24DET in it:

Very soft slicks and proper coilover and swaybar combo

 

$2003 Miata grassroots motorsport competition:

they had a 302 in a miata and needed it to go fast, they combated squat by putting in a torsion bar type sway bar to make the rear end as "solid" as possible.

 

Quote from the builders of the $2003 Miata:

"A heavy duty rear sway bar was added to help with the drag race portion of the event. The goal was to make the IRS act like a solid axle for the drag race. With the shocks set of full stiff, and the sway bar installed, our Miata was producing 60' times in the 1.6 second range."

 

I know this is alot of unneeded information, but to give you an idea of what it takes to have a fast 510 in a straight line. It can be done, just not as easy.

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A straight off the street anything is not going to run a good number due to several factors and the biggest one is traction. I don't care how much horsepower you are making, tire spin will kill E.T. every time.

 

Stiffer rear end, softer nose settings and sticky tires will help greatly.

 

And to be quite honest, go run the 1/8th mile. Less wear and tear on your car, same results and no boring passes. Most street cars hit their limit at about the 1,000 ft. mark anyways, after that, it is just driving down the road.

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Quote from the builders of the $2003 Miata:

"A heavy duty rear sway bar was added to help with the drag race portion of the event. The goal was to make the IRS act like a solid axle for the drag race. With the shocks set of full stiff, and the sway bar installed, our Miata was producing 60' times in the 1.6 second range."

 

 

 

A rear sway bar is not going to prevent the rear end from 'squatting' under acceleration. If there was an improvement it was the stiffer shock setting. The sway bar connects the two rear wheels together and resists one moving up or down relative to the other. If both are moving together, as in sudden acceleration or going over a speed bump, the sway bar does nothing. Sway bars are most usefull on hard cornering where the body tends to lean to the outside of the turn and lift on the inside. The unequal suspension movement is resisted by the sway bar.

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A rear sway bar is not going to prevent the rear end from 'squatting' under acceleration. If there was an improvement it was the stiffer shock setting. The sway bar connects the two rear wheels together and resists one moving up or down relative to the other. If both are moving together, as in sudden acceleration or going over a speed bump, the sway bar does nothing. Sway bars are most usefull on hard cornering where the body tends to lean to the outside of the turn and lift on the inside. The unequal suspension movement is resisted by the sway bar.

 

I was thinking the same thing, the only thing i can figure is with the rear when it squats the suspension goes inward and if the sway bar was mounted directly to the lower control arm the sway bar might keep some outward tension on them and stiffen the squat???

If that makes sense?

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It all depends on how the swaybar is designed. The type of swaybar they used in the 2003 miata was a torsional unit (straight bar with keyhole for the end links)

 

similar to this:

0910_4wd_02_z+1986_suzuki_samurai_buildup+currie_antirock_sway_bar_kit.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edit: I did word it wrong, the large sway bar does not help combat squat, but it does help in making the rear end act more like solid rear end where the wheels are not moving seperately of eachother. I see it working in my head, but I could not explain it correctly

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