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Clutch and flywheel questions


521Dave

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Any body have clutch problems or questions feel free to hit me up. Worked for a major performance clutch company for over 5 years. Can look at any pictures or problems and help you out. Was the leading tech guy and warranty dept manager so Ive seen everything..really!

521Dave

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how important is clutch alignment

 

i aligned my clutch by hand and broomstick

although i didn't get it perfect i think i left like half an inch

or so out but the gearbox shaft mated up really nicely with the crankshaft

 

and the engine spins freelywith the gearbox on and doesnt really feel like theres any drag

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how important is clutch alignment

 

i aligned my clutch by hand and broomstick

although i didn't get it perfect i think i left like half an inch

or so out but the gearbox shaft mated up really nicely with the crankshaft

 

and the engine spins freelywith the gearbox on and doesnt really feel like theres any drag

 

 

Very important usually the disc will get bent in due to the input shaft not aligning with the disc's splines. A bowed disc will give you odd disengagement issues meaning it wont release completely sometimes but works OK at higher RPM's well thats centrifical force making it work. If it slipped in and your lucky its probably fine, there will always be some drag, same reason why its not good practise to keep the trans in 1st gear and hold the clutch in at stop lights it will heat the disc up wearing it out prematurely. Usually the disc if its a spung road type disc and not a puck disc will flex a little and rebound back once its aligned itself-forced. The main thing you never want to do is slid the tranny in a little then let it hang with only the disc holding it up. Then push it in all the way and bolt it up, do that and you may as well go buy a new disc. Also FYI and I don't know why some people do this but always make sure the engine to trans dowel pins are in it. The bolts only hold the 2 together they don't align the rotating assembly with the input shaft hence whay they are called alignment dowels. The torsional vibrations will tear up everything and will leave a swirl finnish on your flywheel the ever tall tale sign of this mistake.

 

Well since it in and you have checked all the things Ive mentioned double check your hydraulics, no leaks =good. And usually with a perfomance clutch because they tend to have a heavier clamp load re-adjust your master cylinder to have proper disengagement with your new clutch. Its under the dash on the pedal you'll find the Master cylinder rod connected to the clutch pedal with a locking nut. increasing the rod to move more towards the fire wall means more travel to your Slave cylinder, less means less travel. Just adust it untill you are able to change gear effectively, too much and your system will be preloaded, meaning its like you always have your foot on the clucth partially disengaged so it will never work to its full ability. Hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment, also check the flex line inbetween the master and slave, when they are old they tend to balloon sucking up your travel needs for proper disengagement. You probably know this but if not it helps the pocket book to know.

Anyways hope this helps!

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I have a question.

I'm restoring a 620 from the frame up. Last week I put in a new clutch assembly.A LOT easier with the body off. Anyway. now when I turn the crankshaft,the the trans rear shaft turns,but the trans is in neutral.Is something wrong,or is it because the slave cylinder isn't doing anything?

Thanks!

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Is this without a driveshaft? There is enough "drag" between the different rotating parts in side of a transmission that if the output shaft is not being held by something, it will turn when the input shaft is turned.

Yeah,no drive shaft connected. OK that's good to know.

Thanks!

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