No charge!!!!

[yeah-DAT-sun]

So i've been working on getting my newly purchased 620 in a little better shape than the previous owner. Ive replaced battery and altenator still not getting charge. the wiring has been jacked with a bit but it seems to be connected in all the correct places. I have a wiring diagram and i am a little electronicly savy but im kinda stumped any help would be greatly appreciated.

[sssr20det510]

it could have a bad voltage regulator

[banzai510(hainz)]

olddatsuns.com has soem wire diagrams.

 

Do you have a external Volt regulator?

 

Light does not go out? or you using a volt meter to ck this.

 

Clean battery cables also!!!!!!!!!!

 

not much to these systems. Hook up T connector,ground the the re/wht wire.

[sssr20det510]

http://www.olddatsuns.com/data/dat620-1973.pdf

[yeah-DAT-sun]

im using a dmm to test. im adding some picks of the not so professional wiring that i have inherited.

 

the fusable link is gone but jumped apparently!! wtf

 

the wires from alt to red/wht and yel/red are spliced.

 

external voltage reg i believe.

[yeah-DAT-sun]

black wire in dizzy pick have no clue where it should be apparently cut by fan blade

[datzenmike]

The Black dizzy wire should connect to a ground terminal on the side of it.

 

The replacement alt. was an external regulated one right?

 

 

The White/Red stripe wire from the A terminal on the alt. goes to the fusible link (to the + battery) AND also continues on as the White wire to the voltage reg. plug.

 

The Black wire on the E terminal of the alt. goes to ground.

 

 

 

The plastic two prong plug on the alternator:

 

The Yellow wire goes to the Yellow wire on the regulator plug.

The White/Black stripe wire goes to the White/Black on the regulator... no surprises there.

[yeah-DAT-sun]

The Black dizzy wire should connect to a ground terminal on the side of it.

 

The replacement alt. was an external regulated one right?

 

 

The White/Red stripe wire from the A terminal on the alt. goes to the fusible link (to the + battery) AND also continues on as the White wire to the voltage reg. plug.

 

The Black wire on the E terminal of the alt. goes to ground.

 

 

 

The plastic two prong plug on the alternator:

 

The Yellow wire goes to the Yellow wire on the regulator plug.

The White/Black stripe wire goes to the White/Black on the regulator... no surprises there.

 

dont actually know if its external...not to sound dumb but how can i tell?

[banzai510(hainz)]

the blk wire by dizzy just see where it goes. if it goes to a chassis ground I personally woulf get rid of it. Esp if you have a point distributor(dizzy).

If you have a electric dizzy then maybe hook it up But I will assume the - side of your batter is attached to the engine block or head.

 

You can buy new fuseable links. Datzenmike has these numbers if you really need one.

 

as for th alternator wires ,Like I side the red/wht wire goes to the output of alternator and the other is a ground.

 

ck the volt reg connections also. Unplug and plug it back in a few times to maybe make it have better contact.

 

PS whats the voltage at the batter with the car running and with it off!!!!!!!!???????????????? OK we know you have a Digital volt meter but you didnt do anything with it

[datzenmike]

Fusible links are the equivalent of a slow blow fuse and will carry short term heavier loads. A permanent load exceeding the rating will melt the copper wire inside the special Hypalon coating. The Hypalon coating resists catching fire and should never by substituted for this.

 

Most auto parts stores carry by the foot. Can you tell what color your old fusible link was? Maybe Green or Black? Figure out the current rating and get anything with the same rating. Crimp and solder the wire ends to the terminals.

 

Nissan Z car Fusible links.

Pink...... 30 amp.

Green... 40 amp.

Red...... 50 amp.

Yellow.. 60 amp.

Black.... 80 amp.

Blue.... 100 amp.

[hang_510]

Fusible links are the equivalent of a slow blow fuse and will carry short term heavier loads. A permanent load exceeding the rating will melt the copper wire inside the special Hypalon coating. The Hypalon coating resists catching fire and should never by substituted for this.

dont bypass it! :blink:

only temporarily! use a wire gauge 1/2 the size of the load wire, it will get you home to replace w/the correct piece.

 

last i heard they were still avail from nissan.

[yeah-DAT-sun]

the blk wire by dizzy just see where it goes. if it goes to a chassis ground I personally woulf get rid of it. Esp if you have a point distributor(dizzy).

If you have a electric dizzy then maybe hook it up But I will assume the - side of your batter is attached to the engine block or head.

 

You can buy new fuseable links. Datzenmike has these numbers if you really need one.

 

as for th alternator wires ,Like I side the red/wht wire goes to the output of alternator and the other is a ground.

 

ck the volt reg connections also. Unplug and plug it back in a few times to maybe make it have better contact.

 

PS whats the voltage at the batter with the car running and with it off!!!!!!!!???????????????? OK we know you have a Digital volt meter but you didnt do anything with it

 

12volts on/off

[banzai510(hainz)]

That dont tell me alot. youll read 12 volts with key ON and OFF cause your reading across the battery. need more infor.

So your saying its 12volt exactly on?

How about when you put the wipers and lights on what does it read?

 

Only other thing is the volt reg to swap out. Unfortunatley these can be soemwhat expensive.

 

If truck started battery was good. It held a charge esp if a couple days.

[ppeters914]

The replacement alt. was an external regulated one right?

don't actually know if its external...not to sound dumb but how can i tell?

 

Your original post says

 

I've replaced battery and alternator ...

So, what did you replace it with? And why?

[yeah-DAT-sun]

That dont tell me alot. youll read 12 volts with key ON and OFF cause your reading across the battery. need more infor.

So your saying its 12volt exactly on?

How about when you put the wipers and lights on what does it read?

 

Only other thing is the volt reg to swap out. Unfortunatley these can be soemwhat expensive.

 

If truck started battery was good. It held a charge esp if a couple days.

 

 

its 12 volts running lights on (bright) dome wipers all there is to turn on and it reads 12 volts/ engine off 12 still. i have always thought it shoulld read atleast 13 volts ....no?

[izzo]

id remove the fram filter too, thats no good...

[Unclejesse88]

That wire by the distributor could be the coolant temp sensor. It's hard to tell with the wire convolute on. If it's yellow it may be coolant temp. As for the charging issue, first things first. PUT A FUSIBLE LINK ON IT. I believe you want a fusible link four gauges smaller than the charge wire. I believe I used 16 gauge, black. Second, use your volt meter to check alternator output by attaching the black test lead to battery negative, the, the red lead to the charge stud on the back of the alternator. If it reads 13 volts or more, you have an issue with you charge wire between the alt and battery. Also test your battery terminals, by putting one test probe on the cable end, and the other on the battery post. Example: black test lead on positive cable end, and red lead on positive battery post. Your meter should read next to nothing, as this is the voltage drop across the connection. If you read anything .5 volts or more you have a poor connection. You can also do this same type of voltage drop test all along the charge cable.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would think if its 12volts running an then you load it down with wipers and might you would get even less voltage.

 

all I can say is get a volt reg and try that besides cleaning all the contats and maybe the battery cables.

 

Alot of alternators are bad from the store also. You could always pull it and get it LOAD cked. Load ck where they put a load on it. They copuls have ck your other alternator before you bought the new one.

 

all I can saY NOW is swap out a volt reg and clean connections.

 

Have you cleaqned the volt reg connections?

 

Right now IM thinking its the volt reg cause it dosnt load down less the 12volts as you said but stuck @12volt output. But hard to believe.

Most of my volt regs when they go bad is they over volt to 15 volts and I try to put everything ON and still have over 15volts(Bad new will cook the battery,battery acid everywhere)

[yeah-DAT-sun]

I would think if its 12volts running an then you load it down with wipers and might you would get even less voltage.

 

all I can say is get a volt reg and try that besides cleaning all the contats and maybe the battery cables.

 

Alot of alternators are bad from the store also. You could always pull it and get it LOAD cked. Load ck where they put a load on it. They copuls have ck your other alternator before you bought the new one.

 

all I can saY NOW is swap out a volt reg and clean connections.

 

Have you cleaqned the volt reg connections?

 

Right now IM thinking its the volt reg cause it dosnt load down less the 12volts as you said but stuck @12volt output. But hard to believe.

Most of my volt regs when they go bad is they over volt to 15 volts and I try to put everything ON and still have over 15volts(Bad new will cook the battery,battery acid everywhere)

 

yeah man im thinking its gotta be the voltage reg its just crazy that it stays at 12 volts steady. ive gone through and repaired the janky wiring i.e. fusable link and other bad wiring. now im running into some timing issues and carb stuff. it was way advanced and the distributer is as retarded as it can get. im not too certain on a few of the vacume lines. every diagram is usually 75-newer. the engine has had either a top end or some type of work as it has an A87 head on it an its an l16 so it may have came from newer really dont know a whole lot bout engine. learning as i go. but anyway guess ill try a new reg huh?

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=hainz&set=5&x=0&y=0

 

watch this

maybe your dizzy and mount are different or your oil spindal is off a tooth.

 

watch vid I show all how to line this stuff up correctly

everything is based on TDC commpression stroke on my vid.

Its enough infor to make you dangerous

[yeah-DAT-sun]

http://www.guba.com/...z&set=5&x=0&y=0

 

watch this

maybe your dizzy and mount are different or your oil spindal is off a tooth.

 

watch vid I show all how to line this stuff up correctly

everything is based on TDC commpression stroke on my vid.

Its enough infor to make you dangerous

 

 

Hey man appreciate the time you put into making the video. I will deffinetly be gainig some knowledge. thanks

[yeah-DAT-sun]

so i have replaced voltage regulator, alt, and battery and still no charge. the voltage reg smoked as soon as i started up so there must be a short maybe open to suggestions

[banzai510(hainz)]

Crap!!!!!!!!!!!!

Im no help here anymore.

 

theres so many things to ck.GET a TEST light!!!!!!!!!make sure KEY is OFF

I would ck for short by disconnect the neg side of battery. and put a test light on neg post and on the the neg cable you just took off. if there is a short the light will be ON.

 

I then would pull fuses maybe the alternator wire ,pull the volt reg harness. maybe lights ect untill the Light goes off. then you can isolate the circut.