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how much for a l16 rebuild


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I would have said $1,500 and down. This would include boring and new piston/rings/gaskets/rod/main bearings/timing chain set/valve seats and guides replaced.... and you assemble. Looked after you have a 200,000 + mile motor with todays lubricants.

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I looked at getting one of those imported low milage L16s from Japan for like eight or nine hundred bucks, but they don't source L16s any more just L18s or 20s. I wanted to keep it stock because I didn't want to deal with any smog BS in California. Plus, I didn't know what I know now. Probably could have built a stout l20 for the same effort but there wasn't a Ratsun and everybody I knew told me to junk it and by and new ride.

 

I spent $1100 bucks for all my parts and machine shop work. I always changed my oil regularly and so all they did was hone the bores, I re ringed it, used the same pistons. The shop boiled my block, zapped a busted off head bolt and suppled me with twenty thousands over bearings, the smallest grind they needed to take. They checked every thing out for me and were impressed how many miles it had on it and how good a shape it was in. They went through the head replaced all the exhaust valves and two intakes, gave me a new timing kit, bearings, rings and gasket kit.

 

The only things I did a little different was to use main bearing and big end con rod bolts from Nissan that were for a Diesel engine. They had a torques spec for 55 or 65 lbs, instad of the 35 for the gas engines. My parts guy at the dealer used to club race 510s back in the day and he said he never lost a bottom end after he started using them. He told me to use a bigger capacity oil pump from a 280 Z too.

 

I took my time and cleaned every thing, stopped to ask questions when I wasn't sure about something. Used lots of assembly lube and gooped the main seals well. I changed the clutch and bearings too. It was a runner when I pulled it apart so I put the dist. and carb back on and It fired the first crank. I took out onto the freeway to bed the rings by accelerating three times like it said on the box of rings. Then I pulled the carb and rebuilt it. Some guy that worked on my truck for a few years had put bigger jets in it when it started to get tired. It made great power but I could see the gas gauge go down when I gave it throttle.

 

I used non-detergent oil and changed it after five or six hundred miles, then re torqued the head and cam towers at the next regular change.

 

I got 50K on it now and it still screams. I love winding that little sucker out. I get from 21 to 25 MPG. I never have to check the oil because it never burns a drop and I have always changed it at 3000 miles. I used to run Castor Oil, then Pennzoil for a few years, but now I use some Chevron shit that is the cheapest thing they have at Costco and it still looks good at the change and doesn't smell burned. I save a my receipts and all the supplies, parts and shop work including clutch were like eleven hundred.

 

Good luck...

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