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710 electrical problem

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My car is a 1974 710 with l18. Lately at low idle My charge light will sometimes come on. Last night on my way home, car dies. Turn key=nothing. Lights all work but no power to key. I search around and find fusible link burnt. I'm thinking it is the alternator/ voltage regulator causing the problem., I can't find voltage regulator and I found the jumper wires on the back of a connector so It looks as though my alternator has been upgraded with an internal regulator model. I'm going to have it tested today but how do I know what to replace it with? Its a hitachi but the part # sticker is worn and I can't read the number. I'm looking for a bolt on replacement, I don't want to do any bracket swapping or rewiring anything. I don't need anything special. Are there any other places I should be looking for the cause of burnt fusible links. Thanks

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Not sure how the 710 is wired. Start with the above thread, it should get you most of the way there. When you get to a specific problem or get it installed, post up. Pic's are always helpful. :D


There may be a short in the alternator or the starter. Replace the alternator and wire it in correctly. Bench test your starter.

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I think they are all similar as it's cheaper to make one model for all cars of a certain year than one for each.


IR alts were used from around '78 on and were around 35 amp. (truck) higher for cars. About '80 they were 50-60 amp but were slightly larger. They will bolt up the same but the larger size is only a problem on trucks where the idler arm is in the way.


An alternator from a '78 and up 200sx, A10, 810, 280z, 620, B210 should work fine.


'78 620 truck 35 amp.... # 23100 B9800

'78 200sx car 50 amp... # 32100 W5800

'78 280z car 60 amp... # 32100 P3006

'78 810 car 60 amp....... # 32100 V0101

'78 B210 car 60 amp...... #32100 H7700 * not an L series motor.


The differences are likely in output and pulley size but the case and mounting points are likely the same.

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Sound like you have a IR alt installed.

If the red/wht and blk/wht are shorted together

yellow and white then yes you have a IR alt.


If alt light is on at low usually the brushes are getting worn. Find a later model Datsun or nissan and order one.


since you have the wires done for a conversion get the IR type.


this is not hard look up on Rockauto.com and if the car does not list a external voltage regulator then it uses a IR alternator. about 79 /80 they went with IR type alternators.



Buy a volt meter for the car so you can catch what voltage your really putting out. By the time the light coems on it usaully too late.

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Thanks everyone for your help. I need to cleanup some wiring and get an alternator this week. Could bad alternator/regulator be the cause of the fusible links blowing? I've been driving the car daily for a year and no problem until now. Thanks

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An internally shorted alternator can easily open a fusible link. I've had stators short to the case before. With everything in place on the car, attach your test light clip end to battery positive, and touch the test lamp to the battery stud on the alternator. If the test light lights, your alternator is shorted internally to ground.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i would start by replacing the fusable link mine burnt up because of a bad conection the the wireing harness replace the fusable link and see if that solves your issue before you worry about the alt

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