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the motor I'm building with the help of ratsun and ebay


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This motor started off as a running Nissan Z22. The cylinder walls had rust and I decided it would be best to rebuild the motor. I've been gathering parts for over a year. I don't make alot of money so this has been a slow process. I bought a Cannon Intake and Weber 38 carborator. I also have a large comp cams cam, larger toob long header with 2.5" collector, 5 speed transmission, and its all going in my 74 Datsun 620. So far the motor has a resurfaced Z22 crank, Z22 rods, and NPR 89mm KA24E pistons. I plan to use an Open Chambered A87 head, I have a few to choose from. i'll send it in to get resurfaced.

 

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just curious, as i work at an engine machine shop

 

the hone job looks pretty coarse on the cylinders, what kind of rings did you put in (moly, cast, chrome?)

 

and i suggest knockin out those frost plugs cus they dont look too good from the pics. A good brass frost plug kit is only like 15 bucks. it beats having one push out from being rusty in the middle of nowhere... and it looks better :)

i probibly wouldof decked the block too, but it should be ok.

 

i'm assuming youve plastiguaged or actually measured the clearances now u got it all full of lube.

 

other that, keep it clean while ur puttin it together and itll be a kick ass motor

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43630028-2.jpg

 

This combination of increased piston size and smaller dish would have an unworkable compression if it wasn't for the 1.55mm of negative deck height. In the picture above you can see the piston tops are far below the deck surface. This deck height adds 9.63cc of extra volume to the combustion chamber and allows a reasonable 9.89 compression. Unless absolutely necessary, the block should not be decked.

 

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I'm hoping all this time and money will be worth it in the long run. I started this over a year ago. I live in an area where 50% of everyone is jobless. I'm making $8 an hour so building enough money takes forever.

 

I'm going to put new freeze plugs in the block before I finish it. I sent the block into a local machine shop which I thought over charged me for the job. He'd tell me how much it would be before and it would cost more every time when I went to pick it up. The piston rings are NPR but I don't know what they are made of.

 

Right now, the only thing holding me back is I haven't decided which head to use to send in and get resurfaced. I have several, most A87 open chambered. The one I have been thinking about using came off a motor that was in my 73 620. It had a major oil / coolant issue. The motor ran fine, had a good amount of compression on all the cylinders, but it would get oil in the coolant. I ran it and ran it by putting floor degreaser in the coolant. I gave up after I put 20,000 mile on the motor like that. If I didn't put the degreaser in the coolant, it would clog with oil within 5 miles. The head looks extremely good. When I pulled the gasket, it didn't look to have any issues. I'm afraid to spend the money to have it checked and surfaced, just for the shop to miss something. I have a complete L20b I just bought that I could take apart, but don't really want too. Its suppose to be a good runner and I have several trucks that may need a motor someday.

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I'm running a U67 on my L24B,

 

look at the heads you have, run one that has the open chambers, largest intake ports and rectangular exhaust ports,

 

if you have it. I dont know much about the round exhaust smog heads, but they may be ok with the correct exhaust

 

header.

 

also see if you have an early L16 exhaust manifold, 4 into 2 into 1 flows best, after that, the later

 

manifold thats not divided inside. I believe the exhaust that bolts to the intake is the worst.

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The header I have has the square exhaust ports. I don't think any of the heads I have are round exhaust ports. I'll have to dig threw my stuff and decided which one to use. I'm going to let NAPA do the head I decided to use and have them install the cam.

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43630028-2.jpg

 

This combination of increased piston size and smaller dish would have an unworkable compression if it wasn't for the 1.55mm of negative deck height. In the picture above you can see the piston tops are far below the deck surface. This deck height adds 9.63cc of extra volume to the combustion chamber and allows a reasonable 9.89 compression. Unless absolutely necessary, the block should not be decked.

 

.

 

the low compression is just so u can run regular in it i'd assume eh

if the deck checked out fine then yay.

 

to tell rings apart..

 

 

your cast iron rings are a dull dark grey usually.

 

your chrome rings are well, chrome

 

and your moly/nitride rings are ususally dark grey on the sides and a light gray on the ring face.

 

trying to think but if you went with the cheap replacement npr rings i think theyre just cast iron. so that coarse hone job is bang on.

 

what you pay to get it bored out? our rate for a bore and fit is 32 canadian a hole.

did they do anything else like mag it or degrease it or anything?

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I was told by my dad that the rings are chrome molly.

 

I plan to run premium gas.

 

I was told it was going to be $20 a hole but it end up being $40 a hole. I was told that to press the old pistons off and press the new ones on would be $36 but it end up being $46. He wanted $175 to resurface the head, napa does that for $120.

 

My dad works with me at a used car dealership / auto repair garage. He's master certified and i just change oil. He build a radical MG motor before I was born. He still have the MG but its been in our garage since before I was born. My dad is doing the assembly of my motor with my presents.

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Yeah, I've seen that bore job costing twice if the cut is too big and needs two passes. A machine shop should be willing to charge less if you are getting several things done there. Shop around and hold them to the agreed price.

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I was looking at an A87 head that I have and the valves stick down quite a ways. It looks like its going to be close to hitting the pistons.

 

 

 

 

I could have taken a shortcut for $2000 shipped

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-510-620-2-3L-L20B-U67-Performance-Race-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2558846f3eQQitemZ160398864190QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2792wt_939

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what size lash pads did you end up using?

I hope if the lash pads were bigger that you got taller retainers!!!!

 

Was this a kit?

 

did you ink the rockers to ck the rocker swipe? make sure its in the center.

 

146$ is a almost too good of a deal.

 

 

I bought the cam used and it came with lash pads. NAPA resurfaced the head and pressure checked it for $120, then installed the cam for an additional $20. I was looking at it closer and I think I might have to do some work on the lash pads. They don't look right to me.

 

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this is a ez ck.

turn cam till a lob points up. Then loosen the 17mm jam nut then dial the 14mm post down far as you can. then pry the rocker arm off. clean it then use a sharpie blk ink pen and cover the whole rocker pad surface. then reinstall the rocker and set lash to the cam spec. then turn the head a couple times then remove the rocker and ck the wipe pattern.

 

only way to do this is put head back on block. set block so all the pisons are in the middle. then bolt the head on using 2 head bolts.

 

any more help PM me

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