nbesheer Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 So I've had this car for a while but have had tons of problems with it and I do not think that I had a build thread so here goes. I've had tons of problems with the PO's hack job he did. Here is the car the day I got it. It made it home, and that's about it. One night coming home it just died and we had to push it back home. I ended up replacing the non stock nikki carb with a new Weber 32/36 (?) and all timing components and related gaskets. I was then able to get it started and "drive" but it was not anywhere near running properly. I decided to replace the mustache bar bushings, and all u-joints. I sold the springs to a member here. Here is the bar Once I got it back on the ground it would not run properly at all and it turned out the dizzy the PO had installed was not for an L series engine, and I'm not sure what engine it was for but it was single point. I installed a dual point that I got from a member here and it worked for a while before it quit working again. Then it sat for about nine months while I went through EMT school. I've been forced to do something with it since PD doesn't want it parked on the street anymore, so I finally got around to installing the black box dizzy I had lying around, and it was kinda tricky with all the wires I have being the same color. But I eventually got it to work. and that is where I am at now. I got a gear reduction starter from a S130 yesterday at PaP and it tested good at Autozone so I put it on today. New Gear Reduction Old Direct drive complete with PO special broken bolt hole. And engine/trans sans starter and you can not see from this photo but it is also missing the little angle brackets that go from the block to the transmission. Too bad for me when I installed the gear reduction it made horrible noises with the flywheel so I went back to direct. Any ideas on how to get a gear reduction starter to work on there am I missing something ? Now my next project starting tonight will be to replace everything you see here + Brake drums. That's Wheel cylinders, lock nuts, wheel seals, shoes, pads, poly control arm bushings, poly springs seats, wheel bearings, brake hoses. Horray that is my abridged edition build thread up to now. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 glad to see you still got her your part will be in the mail tomorrow or wednsday anything else you might need let me know man Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Do you happen to have the plastic bracket that holds the wiper spindle to the frame ? Also in other news I might not replace the wheel bearings because the noise I assumed was teh wheel bearing was in fact loose lugnuts, so I will be replaceing everything else for sure but I don't know yet if I'm going to do the wheelbearings at this time. Oh Bonvo did you ship that fuel stuff ? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) are those heater hoses in the correct location? why I say that is the head outlet goes to the heatercore ussually. then the other outlet goes to the wtaer intake pipe in fron that goes to the front cover. plus you can shorten it and make it look cleaner. the head outlet should point to the firewall not up as you have it pitchured unless you moved it thats a nice 610 not to many seen anymore. take care of it. Edited December 7, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Um when I recplaced the hoses in the engine bay I just left eveything and noticed the heater core leaked so I just took it and recouted it back to itself cutting out the heater, I will replace that at a later date though. Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Okay, I'm not going to replace the wheel bearings at this time, that WAY too much work for right now, and apparently the bushings for the suspension arms are not going to be replaced either as not even my air tools can remove the nuts/bolts holding them in. But in other news I did replace the the LR brake line and spring bushing/hat thing (picture of that later), also just received the drum hardware kit in the mail today from Ebay. now all I need is 2 drums! Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 now all I need is 2 drums! If you're going to keep drums, get the 240Z finned variety. They dissipate heat much faster. Otherwise, what's wrong with having your old set turned, too far gone?? Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 How much does that cost ? and where can I get that done at ? Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 You take the drums off and bring them to a brake shop. Some muffler shops and tire centers that do brakes will turn them for you. Anywhere from $10-15 per drum is a typical charge the last time I had that done. Same with rotors. Quote Link to comment
datsun 160J SSS Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 I have some new drums in my stock :) if you need them let me know Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Well I decided I am not going to do the wheel bearings since that nut looks like a B to get off especially with my lack of tools, but I did finish the drivers side rear with new shoes, new wheel cylinder(pain in the A), springs, and I cleaned up the adjuster thing at the top since the metal bits with the slots in them didn't move. I don't know if that will effect anything, the rear one was stuck out maybe that's why the drum warped or w/e. and I got a new drum from autozone. and here is a photo of the old spring seat/hat thing w/ the new one. Quote Link to comment
cadillac pat Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 I needs one of these cars. Quote Link to comment
cadillac pat Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 yup, soon Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 and here is a photo of the old spring seat/hat thing w/ the new one. Once lowered in its life. Spring not set properly and it got caught up to look like this. I learned it the hard way in high school. Fixed and Fixed :D Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Well I did the driver side rear brakes, brake hose and spring seat thing, now that side of the car is a bit higher, I haven't driven it yet to know if it will settle or not, but I was wondering if there is a special way for the bottom of the spring to seat ? also I got a new to me fuel cap and flange from Bonvo, hopefully I have better luck w/ this one. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Well I did the driver side rear brakes, brake hose and spring seat thing, now that side of the car is a bit higher, I haven't driven it yet to know if it will settle or not, but I was wondering if there is a special way for the bottom of the spring to seat ? also I got a new to me fuel cap and flange from Bonvo, hopefully I have better luck w/ this one. Question: (I know you checked...) Is the bottom of the spring in the groove? If so, a quick trip around the block and things will start to settle out right away. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Well I did the driver side rear brakes, brake hose and spring seat thing, now that side of the car is a bit higher, I haven't driven it yet to know if it will settle or not, but I was wondering if there is a special way for the bottom of the spring to seat ? also I got a new to me fuel cap and flange from Bonvo, hopefully I have better luck w/ this one. glad it arrived man sorry bout the delay but as i said i misplaced it.that one shouldnt leak. it never leaked when i was using it in the yellow car and i fill my shit to the top of the filler neck. as william said is the spring in its groove in the rear control arm? if so it will settle i cut my springs made sure mine was in the groove rolled it a bit and it droped about 1/2 inch more Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I figured there would be something like that a groove or what not but when I looked at the bottom I didn't see anything all I saw was two holes, I'll have to recheck it. I know that when I bounce on the bumper that the spring makes spring noises haha so I'll have to reseat that probably. No worries on it being late, I still need to do the passenger side rear wheel before I'm ready to drive it. Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Well I got the spring situation sorted out and I dealt with the passenger side of the car but i'm having a problem because the new drum I got will not fit over the new shoes, both new drums fit well on the driver side and the old drum fits on the passenger side, but I can't get a new one there. the adjuster thing on top is unscrewed as much as possible (making the shoes go in) and the hand brake cable has slack in it too but for some reason the shoes are just too far out. any ideas ? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 have you tried compressing the wheel cylinder? Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Yeah, the wheel cylinder is brand new and will not compress any further. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Yeah, the wheel cylinder is brand new and will not compress any further. The wheel cylinder has been bled out completely? I would assume that there is something in the line (air) that would prevent it from compressing further. Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 THe wheel cylinder is not been bled out, there's nothing in it to bleed out. but I will try to compress the cylinder if I can Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Well I found out what it was, the parking brake thing wasn't fully disengaged, then once I got everything on it would not turn again and zerow pointed out that the drum could be skewed which it was I had to grind the inside hole of the and the outside of the circle thing on the hub I also edited my control arm thing to accept the FWD wheels I currently have on, I previously had to use a spacer but that made the thread engagement of the lug nuts to about <1/4 inch and it was messing up the threads. Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Well that didn't last long, the Alternator crapped out, so now I'm going to attempt to return the 610 alt on a warranty exchange w/ my Z alt to get a better one for free. Need to find the write up on how to do that Quote Link to comment
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