motavated Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 I have one like this. And I want to install it while keeping the original temp sender. I want two gauges to be sure my truck runs ok. The thing is the lower t housing has two holes. One for the original temp sender and another smaller hole. The thing is that the sensor of the aftermarket temp gauge does not fit into that smaller hole. Is there anything I could do? Any ideas? Thanks! One hole is for the stock sender, the other is open and heads towards the intake, the other smaller hole has a sensor but the hole is to small... HelP? Guy? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 What is the second hole for?? What's in there now?? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 Really your best bet is to find a later L20B thermostat housing with the large vacuum switch hole, which you can usually find an adapter to fit an aftermarket sender. Quote Link to comment
dimedriver Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 The thermostat housing from any fuel injected 280z should work. The old maxima/810 that had the L28 in it would also have the same housing. I think it had three or four ports on it. Its easy to identify, it has three bolts holding the hose outlet on. -Avery Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted September 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 (edited) I am using this top housing from a Mazda 323 from the yard. I just looked around and I just found it. They had a z there so I tried it on and it sort if fits. Needs some trimming but not bad! Will use this guys. Thanks! "this is actualy a pic of a miata cover" it also seems that it might work... Edited September 26, 2009 by Motavated Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 i've done this.i have my original oil and water sending units with aftermarkets also. most people just unhook the originals. i did as dholic said and put the l20b housing on and took the vacuum switch out. i bought my adapter from wolfsco "williams oil filter service company". i have the receipt somewhere with the part number. i'll look for it now. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 You know that is an oil or tranny temp guage-right? Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 What? Z_train? Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) Nevermind.I just saw the 280 degree thing and thought oil/trans temp guage.Because if your coolant temp gets north of 240-you're screwed.But then i looked and saw that all three guages go to 280 degrees-which makes no sense. I was thinking the temp guage should top out 240ish and have smaller graduations.:mellow: There is another solution.Take ANY top T-stat housing and weld in the fitting for the temp sending unit.That way it gets the temp right at the T-stat but the probe doesn't hit the bottom of the stat itself. I'll see if i can get a pic tomorrow. Edited October 1, 2009 by Z-train Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 That is the same thing I was thinking. Wtf? Wouldn't my engine die after 200? the 180-190 deg is right at the beginning. NOT IN THE MIDDLE! Its stupid but They are all like that now... Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 I guess the cheap bastards are using the same "face" for all the guages.I checked Autometer's website and they are the same. Would you reeally care if your motor was 260 or 280 degrees?:blink: Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 I thought i was losing my mind.So i went out and looked at all my water temp guages.They stop at 240 degrees.Those cheap cock suckers are cutting production costs and making us pay the freight(less accuracy) Quote Link to comment
newguy Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) The trouble is different thread types. I have a 78 620 and it has two ports, but my oem temp sensor is in the lower frontwards facing port and the driver side facing port has a temp activated vacum switch (for smog stuff) I took that out and planned to screw in my temp probe for the aftermarket gauge and noticed it screwed in but was loose and wouldn't seal. After visiting the home depot I I.D. the threads. the OEM housing is BSPT threads and the after market threads are NTP. So if you are using a L20B housing then you are looking for 3/8 bspt (british standard pipe thread) male to 3/8ntp female adapter. I know this because I just finished doing the same thing. newguy Edited October 4, 2009 by newguy Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) The thermostat housing from any fuel injected 280z should work. The old maxima/810 that had the L28 in it would also have the same housing. I think it had three or four ports on it. Its easy to identify, it has three bolts holding the hose outlet on. -Avery In the maxima/810 (80-83) was either a ld28 or a l24e, no l28s. The 280z thermostat housing isn't held on with 3 bolts. The 280zx and maxima/810 are though. They all have 4 ports. So if you nab a 280z housing you can still use the 2 bolt hose outlet you perdied up. Edited October 4, 2009 by 72240z Quote Link to comment
newguy Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Why did you switch the sensors around in the thermistate housing? kinda curious.:confused: looks like you put the temp probe (aftermarket gauge) in the front port and the OEM temp sensor in the other. i've done this.i have my original oil and water sending units with aftermarkets also. most people just unhook the originals. i did as dholic said and put the l20b housing on and took the vacuum switch out. i bought my adapter from wolfsco "williams oil filter service company". i have the receipt somewhere with the part number. i'll look for it now. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 Sorry for the late reply but here is what I did. I got this a Mazda 323 upper housing. And connected them like this... Works ok for now. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) Well that worked out for you. Looks good. I'd like to just throw out that you should solder not use butt connectors :-X. How many car's I've had to break my balls diagnosing because the bay was full of butt connectors, sigh....... Edited October 7, 2009 by 72240z Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 HAHAHHAHAH! Your right! I just did it quickly for Jccs. ITS FULL OF THEM! Its literally a wiring mess right now but that works. I will fix them up... Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 It was well worth doing then lol, shit I'd 3 wheel it over. I'm really envious of that show, when my z is 100% I'm taking a rd trip timed to work it in. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 Good to know the 323 housing works. From what year did it come from? Thanks for the pix :D Quote Link to comment
newguy Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Thank you motivated for answering my question.:) Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Why did you switch the sensors around in the thermistate housing? kinda curious.:confused:looks like you put the temp probe (aftermarket gauge) in the front port and the OEM temp sensor in the other. yes i think the reason was my tripple guage kit cam with one adapter that only fit in that hole. the other adapter i bought was a s/w 16x1.5 part number 82573 Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 The after market gauge is placed under the thermostat and will read at 180 deg since I have a 180 thermostat. But until the thermostat opens, the stock datsun gauge will stay silent and read COLD, right? If the after market gauge starts reading 190 or higher, and my stock one still reads zero or cold. My thermostat is probably dead and I have to pull over quickly... I want to see at all times how hot is my engine in degrees. The stock one just says hot or cold. Get my point? Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 if your after market gauge starts to read over 190 your stock should in the red. i tend to get thermostat's that like to stick when new for some reason. mine used to go up to 220 once in a while the would plumit down fast to normal operating temp. somethings got to give when that happens either a head gasket or the thermostat. i've always got lucky and the stat becomes unstuck. ever since i replaced my radiator and water pump i noticed my engine runs hotter. i noticed some water pumps have bigger l shaped fins. whats up with that. dont know about a 620 but on a 521 the spot between hot and cold is normal temp. there is also an adjustment on the back of the gauge to dial it in. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Wow! I didn't know that! My question is which water pump is the best?!?!?! Some have bent metal blades and others are made of iron? Also which design is better from the iron ones??? That would be nice to know... Thanks! Quote Link to comment
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