izzo Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) after i scrape the hold head gasket off, both the head and the block, and clean the cylinder walls & hone them. Can i use wd40 to keep it from rusting? Or is there something else that i should use? dont want that stuff to rust up before i get to building it... also, if i use wd40 should it be cleaned off before assembly/running or will it not hurt anything. I wouldnt think it would mix well with oil :D Edited September 4, 2009 by h2theizzo Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I use Fluid Film. Stays on the metal better than WD40 which is too "thin". But it really depends on how long it's gonna sit. Couple days to a week, WD is OK. Up to a year, Fluid Film. Over a year, pack in cosmoline and bag it. Kidding about the cosmoline- it's WWII vintage, though it's good stuff- we have stuff that was packed in it 65 years ago that's still good. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 WD-40 is just mineral oil with an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent. If you are concerned just degrease with brake cleaner. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 WD-40 is just mineral oil with an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent. If you are concerned just degrease with brake cleaner. so its safe to use, and it wont hurt anything if i just throw the engine together and leave it? if i remember right ur supposed to change the oil after the first 500 miles anyways Quote Link to comment
benzo Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I used WD 40 and it works ok but don't leave the engine stored for long like that. when you are ready to assemble motor clean off wd 40 and you should be good to go Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 Good to know, thank you! only plan on leaving it for 2 weeks like that, if shit happens ill clean and store somewhere more dry Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I wouldn't leave it on mating surfaces like for the head gasket, like Mike said degrease it with brake clean. I use wax remover afterward to remove the film brake clean leaves. I bought a m2 bmg barrel for a .50 project and it was packed in cosmoline, it really is good stuff. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I wouldn't leave it on mating surfaces like for the head gasket, like Mike said degrease it with brake clean. I use wax remover afterward to remove the film brake clean leaves. I bought a m2 bmg barrel for a .50 project and it was packed in cosmoline, it really is good stuff. ya def wont be leaving it on the head, main concern was if some of it got down into the pan, didnt want it hurting the bearings by not letting the oil do its job. also was curious if the wd would stay on there for a period of time and keep it from rusting, or if it would evaporate and id find a rusty mess later. what exactly is that M2 stuff? Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I personally wouldn't leave any pools of it but wouldn't worry about residue though. The M2 is a .50 machine gun You can turn down the barrel in a lathe for rifle use. There is a book on it called.... I ended up selling it though and picking up a riffled and chambered blank. Just cant go any further on construction on the action until I'm sure of the legal ramifications lol. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 gotcha :D didnt use a large amount, just got enough to cover the surface. ill have to check into this cosmoline. Quote Link to comment
zed Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I used WD40 on the first engine block I re-built. Left the block standing for a long time while I worked on other stuff. When I got back to it, there was fine rust in the bores. So now I rub gear oil onto new bores with a rag. Clean it off with engine cleaner when I'm ready. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Just cant go any further on construction on the action until I'm sure of the legal ramifications lol. With a retarded state government like NJ, I doubt you could rebuild a .22 long rifle without running afoul of some state law or dubious regulation. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Idk If I would call it retarded. NJ has the highest population density of any state, them not wanting to hand over reg papers to some guy who decided to build a .50 cal rifle is a good thing. It's hand guns that the laws are getting stricter on, the latest was only one per month can be registered, Idk that's still not THAT bad to me. There are some clip laws that are annoying like no banana clips etc... that kind of pisses me off. Other then that stuff though its not really bad at all considering the population and what not. Cali on the other hand... shivers lol. It's just complicated in this situation because It's all home build. What serial? What manufacturer? Certified? Blah blah, just trying to figure out wtf 1st instead of popping those last pieces in and being in possession. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Idk If I would call it retarded. NJ has the highest population density of any state, them not wanting to hand over reg papers to some guy who decided to build a .50 cal rifle is a good thing. It's hand guns that the laws are getting stricter on, the latest was only one per month can be registered, Idk that's still not THAT bad to me. There are some clip laws that are annoying like no banana clips etc... that kind of pisses me off. Other then that stuff though its not really bad at all considering the population and what not. Cali on the other hand... shivers lol. It's just complicated in this situation because It's all home build. What serial? What manufacturer? Certified? Blah blah, just trying to figure out wtf 1st instead of popping those last pieces in and being in possession. Serial number, whatever is on the action. Manufacturer, Possibly the action? Model, "Custom" Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Serial number, whatever is on the action.Manufacturer, Possibly the action? Model, "Custom" Hope that helps. I built the action, or most of it ;-). I'm trying to find out if I can just engrave my own serial or w/e for their records or if I have to go to a 3rd party. That may also kind of fall under the model section too because a 3rd party may assign that too if one is to be used. They are also handing me shit about the manufacturers need to be accredited or something like that. It's hard because the people who tell you no (government) can't or won't give you a straight or correct answer as to why or how. It's like a giant circle jerk. I'll figure it out and I'll be patient in the mean time. The build was for the challenge not really to spend 6 bucks a round blowing holes in w/e lol. Although it will be nice when I finally can. :lol: Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 I built the action, or most of it ;-). I'm trying to find out if I can just engrave my own serial or w/e for their records or if I have to go to a 3rd party. That may also kind of fall under the model section too because a 3rd party may assign that too if one is to be used. They are also handing me shit about the manufacturers need to be accredited or something like that. It's hard because the people who tell you no (government) can't or won't give you a straight or correct answer as to why or how. It's like a giant circle jerk. I'll figure it out and I'll be patient in the mean time. The build was for the challenge not really to spend 6 bucks a round blowing holes in w/e lol. Although it will be nice when I finally can. :lol: Go to your nearest public library [if you are not already a NRA member], take down a recent copy of the American Rifleman and look under the competition sections [or hit the NRA web site], select one of the top competitors who almost always make their own actions and complete rifles and ask them for practical advice. Then there's always Barrett, he has been through all the BS! Quote Link to comment
carl60 Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I use Fluid Film. Stays on the metal better than WD40 which is too "thin". But it really depends on how long it's gonna sit. Couple days to a week, WD is OK. Up to a year, Fluid Film. Over a year, pack in cosmoline and bag it. Quote Link to comment
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