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Ryans 521 Build


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You're spot on Mike....no pun intended. :lol: Amperage is usually controlled by wire speed, you would need more voltage and less wire. Some of the newer machines have seperate settings that are used to fine tune the amperage even more. And on the pulse-mig machines, you can control the time and speed of the pulses, which makes for enless possibilities.

 

yea, what he said...lol

 

That pan looks better than your worries made me expect. The only concern would be wether the mount flange warped. which is fixable with a good gaket and even rtv if you really need it. So grats. now clean out the rust inside :P

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PARTS!!!

 

I got some parts in this week while i was gone. GOD i wish it was not so hot out. its too hot to go and work on my truck.

 

Well here is my parts list of what I got this week:

 

Engine Mounts

Zerk Fittings

A-Arm Ball Joints

 

I went and picked up some metal too:

5' of 2x1/2" bar plate mild steel for my engine mount brackets

 

10' of 3x3/16" bar plate mild steel for my engine mount stands and plating the starter area

 

5' of 2x3 3/16" rectangular mild steel tubing for my engine mount stands, and I am going to box the rear of the frame in and take out the spare tire area for a gas tank and the battery

 

Pics!!!

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General Layout of the equipment in the frame:

general%20layout.jpg

 

A

Removable Transmission Crossmember from a Foxbody Ford

 

B

Driveshaft Hoop

 

C

Turbo locations one on each side as indicated, forward facing t3/t4 turbo's

 

D

Air to Air intercoolers with ducting in and out to help flow air. the intercoolers will sit inside forward of the fenderwell area

 

E

Miata fuel tank.

 

F

Battery

 

G

2x3 tubing to square off the frame.

 

all the red x's are items that are still to be removed.

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I found the color that I am going to paint my truck. I have been back and forth for a very long time on the color I want to go with. for the longest time i was stuck on a dark metalic grey, but I saw a pontiac G8 GXP this week with a new color and I could not believe how brilliant it was. This picture does not give it justice how deep the color is:

 

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Its called stryker blue metallic:

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I know its not a nissan/datsun color but I was completely awestruck.

 

oh yeah, here are the rims I am going to go with:

 

Rota RB

15x7 front

15x8 rear (rears may be wider depending on how much weld racing will charge to widen the stock rota's)

I may go with 16's since its hard finding a wide tire in 15's

racinglab_2071_111027434

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well I don't have any pictures for today. But I have taken the motor out of the frame. marked where I need to cut and plate the subframe. I have burned out the old rubber bushings in the A-arms, and I have started drilling and tapping the a-arms for zerk fittings (which is going to take a while!! but it will be worth it when my ride doesn't squeak. )

 

lots of work ahead of me but things are starting to work out slowly

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yesterday and today were pretty productive. I got my largest worry somewhat out of the way. I was really worried how I was going to go about fabricating my motor-mounts in the right spot. Well the way i figured to be most simple was to build a jig.

 

I also made room for my starter, and I also installed the manual rack which is more difficult than one would imagine. I installed the power steering k member in the car, well the manual rack k member and the power steering are not the same. Welders solve plenty of issues, I ended up taking the steering rack mounts off one k member and welding them on the one I am going to use.

 

here are the pics. the cross bracing is just part of the jig to hold the mounts in place so i can fabricate the box mounts without the motor being in place.

 

Yesterday's progress:

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Today's progress included cutting the engine mount plates and mocking up the motor and creating the jig while the motor was in place

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the jig's welds are painted so it doesn't rust even though it is going to be ground off later

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Well today I got the motormounts almost complete I am going to go back in on the driver side and add some bracing to the sides to ensure that these things do not move anywhere. i need to find some exhaust bolts (you will see haha)

 

still looking like its going to fit under the stock hood.

 

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6 inches to the inside front of the frame where the radiator will be

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plenty of room

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I am getting pretty excited that everything is moving along.

 

Next is mounting the transmisison, then I get to tear apart the miata and cut out the floorpan/firewall. ditto for the 521.

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Not too much done last night except a little house cleaning around the work area and I also cleaned the interior of the miata out so i can get ready for the surgery. anyone in san diego area want to let me borrow their cutting torch? otherwise i am going to spend a few hours behind a cutting wheel/body saw getting this firewall/floorpan out

 

 

Last night i made this:

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Look like this:

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oh yeah, i bought my body mounts last night. my tranny crossmember should be arriving soon.

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
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I had a sears gift card, I got a 10 amp AWESOME crafttsman sawzall. Variable speed and it came with a bag!!

 

Also I get to pick me up a cutting torch for a great deal. finally getting all the tools I have always wanted but never had a project to use them on. Justification.

 

 

Tonight I cleaned out the 521 cab of all the spare stuff/tools I had stored in there. I start cutting on friday if I can get the miata motor out of there on thursday night

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
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Also I get to pick me up a cutting torch for a great deal. I start cutting on friday if I can get the miata motor out of there on thursday night

 

Dude - Be careful. I know from personal experience that the Miata will catch on fire. The under side is covered with a tar like material for sound deadening. IT WILL CATCH FIRE! I keep wet towels ready when cutting or welding the floor of a Miata.

 

I'll PM you tonlght.

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Thanks for the pointers!! I have plenty of fire extinguishers and I planned on having a hose handy. . But I actually don't think I am going to use the cutting torch for this job, the setup I am buying has empty bottles and I don't have the $$ to fill them up prior to the floor cutting party. i Think I will be using grinding wheels and my new sawzall. its only sheet metal.

 

I really only purchased the Cutting torch so i can have one, cause every time i have needed one I could not find one for the price I wanted. I know I will use it again later on on something.

 

Thanks again for all the help, I will be looking forward to your answers to my questions!

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
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Well today I only had about an hour or so to work on the truck, i decided to throw the cab on to see how much room I have under the hood and if i was going to have any issues clearing the hood.

 

Well I have TONS of room. With the entire manifold, I have about 3.5" from the top of the intake to the bottom brace of the hood. (I could fit a 351W in there easily....hmmm)

 

Well here are the pictures. glad I am going with the miata floorpan cause I am hitting in a few places and I would have to hack the firewall up to fit the heads in there.

 

you really can't tell but its REALLY low in the engine bay. i am impressed

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Side View

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This is how far its into the firewall:

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Tranny tunnel clearance (once again, glad I am using the miata floorpan/firewall setup)

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good spot

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10.5" tall intake setup

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Hard to tell but I have roughly 14" to the bottom of the hood, plenty of room:

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Just to show you how low it sits in the engine bay

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man, now that I see that I can fit that motor in there, i am itching to see if a 351W would fit under the stock hood.....

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Time for today's accomplishments

 

Fred Flintstone miata!!

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Floorpan which still needs lots of cleaning up work

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Old motor is going to be sold off

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still have to go and take out the suspension hats and the rest of this is junk

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and there is the empty miata

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Time for a shower. next feat is taking off the cab and mocking up the miata floorpan. This is where my build will really start being different than Bob3's. I am going to use the entire miata floorpan as it is, hopefully able to keep the stock miata interior including carpet.

 

BTW, all the work was done with a 4 inch cut off wheel, portable bandsaw, drill, and an awesome Sawzall. oh yeah, a Big F'n HAMMER

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
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More progress:

 

Took all the extra metal off the firewall/floorpan. there still is more to do but the wifey is feeling neglected so i have to work more on it later

 

 

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just a general placement to see where I am at.

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i think the entire floorpan needs to move forward somehow otherwise the seats are not going to fit very comfortable in there. Bob, what is your opinion?

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headers are going to be a VERY tight fit.

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even more so here since the slave cylinder still has to fit down there.

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I am still amazed at how low that motor is sitting in the engine bay

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tranny tunnel forward looking. LOTS of room. I am going to have to have a shifter extension

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and a relocator towards the rear

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engine hoist comes in handy when you are working alone, especially in a VERY small side yard.

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Wish the floorpan was already out of the 521 so i can drop it right on there and weld her up. not quite yet....

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Next is cleaning up the miata pan and getting it ready for fit. along with cutting out the floor of the 521. thinking I am going to have to box up the cab of the truck to ensure there is no flex. time to go get some metal

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