Help me diagnose my L20.

[thisisastickup]

 

listen for the ticking noise. It's fairly prominent, so you should notice it right away.

 

Is this normal, or is something wrong?

 

thanks.

[Cuts metal like mad]

not normal... sounds like loose rockers. Pull the valve cover and start wiggling them, they shouldn't be loose.

[thisisastickup]

how do i go about adjusting them?

[Skib]

go pick up a haynes manual or FSM, best $20 youll spend on your car ;)

[Buzzbomb]

A Haynes manual is a great investment, but if you want instant information, a valve adjustment how to is in the engine section on this website:

 

http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

 

or, instructions from someone who posts on Ratsun:

 

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3582

 

Helped me out when doing this after changing my headgasket :) .

Edited August 1, 2009 by Buzzbomb

[thisisastickup]

I have a haynes manual already, I can't find how to tighten the rockers, though. thanks for posting the links, I'm going to read them.

 

If I can't fix this, will I still be able to drive my car about 50 miles to Chicago for D1 tomorrow?

[yello620]

I wouldn't drive that anywhere like that.

[thisisastickup]

that's about the answer I expected to get.

 

I'd go out and fix this right now, but I don't have feeler gauges.

[Buzzbomb]

I have a haynes manual already, I can't find how to tighten the rockers, though. thanks for posting the links, I'm going to read them.

 

If I can't fix this, will I still be able to drive my car about 50 miles to Chicago for D1 tomorrow?

 

Loose valves are better than tight ones, if you want to call it "better"..You might not be getting the mileage or power you will get after you adjust them, but it's better to have looser than tighter IF they are out of adjustment. The best way to check clearance is by verifying it with the feeler gauge. I personally think it is really tough to judge by ear, because we are so used to quiet cars, so everything sounds noisy in comparison :) .

 

Honestly, adjusting the valves is easy; as a "newbie" you could do a cold adjustment in a pinch in probably 30 minutes if you had to.. I finally adjusted mine HOT because they were a little too noisy after adjusting them COLD. It's not a hard process, but two things I found that were REALLY helpful were a crowfoot wrench on a breaker bar w/extension to initially loosen the lock nuts.

Edited August 1, 2009 by Buzzbomb

[Skib]

Iv had a rocker fall off completely while racing, I got lucky and it was an intake vavle and just left me running on 5cyl.

If it was an exhaust youd have a cyl fire and no exit for that explosion:blink: (those forces will find a way out one way or another ;))

 

tempting it is up to you, but I highly advise not doing so.

 

a valve adjustment takes less than ten minuets :mellow:

 

 

spend the ~$6 on a set of feeler gauges

[thisisastickup]

Well, I pulled the valve cover and felt the rockers, they kind of pivot around on the left side, the perch if you will. As in the part where it's actually connected to the engine, not the valve side. They pivot arouns that point. I'm guessing this is bad, but can I just tighten them and be good to go, or do I need to adjust them?

[Buzzbomb]

If you already have the valve cover off, do yourself a favor. Go get some feeler gauges, and at least do a cold adjustment. You'll have the peace of mind knowing you adjusted them to in the "ballpark", and when you get back from your trip, you can adjust them hot.

 

Don't just randomly tighten stuff, though. You need to adjust the valves with a feeler gauge and with the instructions in the links I posted, or in your Haynes manual. This isn't like timing where you can somewhat get a reasonable setting without the proper tool. I'm sure Hainz or Datzenmike or others might very well be able to adjust the valves by rocker wiggle, but they've also torn down and worked on a TON of these engines.

[Skib]

you need to use a feeler gauge

 

 

 

dont half ass a 10min maintenance step

Edited August 1, 2009 by Skib

[thisisastickup]

That's what I thought.

 

I'll run out to Autozone and grab the gauges tomorrow, and do it then.

 

Thanks for all the help, I've actually never gotten to look around the inside of a motor before this car. I'm excited, though, this should be a great learning experience.

[Cuts metal like mad]

BTW, I had to take an old junk 17mm box end and grind it down to fit between the rocker and the 14mm wrench used on the adjuster...

[thisisastickup]

so I just wen out and picked up feeler gauges, and pulled my valve cover. I have all the spark plug wires out, and I can't turn it by hand. I have en electric fan, so I can't use the fan for leverage, but at the same time, it doesn't even budge when I try to turn it.

[5tinguy]

Really?

Edited August 1, 2009 by 5tinguy

[5tinguy]

All right dude, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You need to learn too much. If you do not know how to turn your motor, don't have the tools or the skills. Then take to a good repair shop and pay your money!

 

In the mean time get a factory service manual and read it. Go take a couple of auto classes at the local jr. college. And go buy some good tools like snap-on, mac, or matco. If you don't plan on working on cars then get some cheep tools like craftsman, or what ever your local autozone sells (busting your knuckles only once or twice isn't too bad, but if you plan on using your tools more than once you will get tired of busting your knuckles so buy good tools). Besides if you can't take the cover off and tell how to adjust valve lash by taking a good look at things. Your starter can turn the motor but you can't? Did the kids call you noodle arm?

 

Sorry, couldn't help it.

 

Good luck

[mike]

Have you checked your oil????

 

The rockers should be a little loose... If you understand the concept of how the valves work in conjunction with the rockers and cam you should be alright working on them... If you fuck them up though it will definitely be a learning experience.

 

As for not being able to turn the motor over by hand??? You should be able to grab the crank pulley and turn that by hand, if not get a socket that fits on the bolt on the crank and turn it with a breaker bar or big ratchet... I think 1 1/8th" works.

 

Have you called the prior owner? it looks like someone put some love into that car... If it were me Id be more than happy to show the new kid how to keep her running tip top...

 

Check your oil first... always start with the easy stuff.

 

Good luck

[thisisastickup]

Oil was changed about 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that's the problem, but I'll check it anyways. I'm pretty sure that the PO didn't do the engine or anything, but I'll give him a call anyways because he's a real nice guy. I also have plenty of car smart friends, as well as a dad and grandpa who are good with older cars, so I'll get someone over to help me with it soon.

[5tinguy]

It is a lot easier to turn the motor with the spark plugs removed.

[philip1]

I'm of two minds on this. Worst case scenario no oil and the bearings are done. Best case an exhaust leak. Check the oil. A valve adjustment is always a good idea. use the car's weight to turn the engine 4th gear and shove adjust according to the manual. then check the oil again to be sure. if the noise persists take a small hose and use it as a stethoscope find where the sound is coming from and report back.

[Skib]

I have all the spark plug wires out, and I can't turn it by hand. I have en electric fan, so I can't use the fan for leverage, but at the same time, it doesn't even budge when I try to turn it.

 

remove your spark plugs, use a 27mm socket on the crank bolt

 

 

 

if not get a socket that fits on the bolt on the crank and turn it with a breaker bar or big ratchet... I think 1 1/8th" works.

 

If you get a socket that fits correctly, its going to be metric.

thisisastickup: please for the love of god dont ever use any american standard tools on a japanese (metric) engine.

Edited August 3, 2009 by Skib

[datzenmike]

The crank bolt is 27mm and not many people have a socket that size.

 

Warm up engine and set the clearance when hot. Intake clearance hot is 10mm while exhaust hot clearance is 12mm.

 

Put the engine in neutral and use a socket on the cam retaining bolt in the center of the cam sprocket. Turn clockwise to prevent loosening it. (unlikely anyway)

 

Turn motor until the first two cam lobes (bumps) are pointing upwards at about 10 and 2 o'clock as viewed from the front of the motor. Check and set the intake and exhaust on #1 cylinder, intake on cylinder #2, exhaust on cylinder #3.

 

Now turn motor forward 1 (one) full turn. The two rear cylinder cam lobes should be in the 10 and two o'clock upward position. Now check and set the exhaust on #2, intake on #3 and the intake and exhaust on #4. DONE

[]2eDeYe]

All right dude, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You need to learn too much. If you do not know how to turn your motor, don't have the tools or the skills. Then take to a good repair shop and pay your money!

 

In the mean time get a factory service manual and read it. Go take a couple of auto classes at the local jr. college. And go buy some good tools like snap-on, mac, or matco. If you don't plan on working on cars then get some cheep tools like craftsman, or what ever your local autozone sells (busting your knuckles only once or twice isn't too bad, but if you plan on using your tools more than once you will get tired of busting your knuckles so buy good tools). Besides if you can't take the cover off and tell how to adjust valve lash by taking a good look at things. Your starter can turn the motor but you can't? Did the kids call you noodle arm?

 

Sorry, couldn't help it.

 

Good luck

 

:blink: