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Need A Distributor Rebuild kit


kgrantkey

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I need a rebuild kit. Does anyone know if they make 1? :confused:

 

I have a dizzy i took apart to try and get the vacuum advance to work. I wish i had left it alone. The truck runs fine, but I felt there was room for improvement at low rpm...well anyway the screws were hard to remove, and the ball bearings that the plate assembly have were rusted or missing. No way was i getting any spark advance.:mad:

 

I need a rebuild kit. :(

 

By the way i read a post in a thread that spoke of Autozone selling the remanufactured dizzy for about 150.00. If you read close that's without the IC ignition unit on the side.

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Find the 'User CP' that's more or less in the upper left of this page and find 'Edit Your Details' and 'Additional Information' and add your location to your profile. This way we know where you are even if only the state. There may be someone nearby with a spare dizzy.

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What kind of Datsun are you asking about?

 

There are no 'rebuild' kits.

* The advance plate is about $75 from Nissan

* The vacuum advance is between $35-$125 bucks. You probably can't find the exact one, but any year will work with slight timing difference.

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Short of replacement parts or a J/Y find you may be able to fix it yourself. Here's some info from Jason Gray on the EI dizzy:

 

Disassembly

 

You should dissasemble your dizzy to check the condition of the mechanical parts. If the dizzy has never been dissasebled then some of the screw may be frozen in place, use a good screwdriver and avoid stripping out the screw head slots. To remove the breaker plate assembly, you first need to remove the trigger star wheel and the vacuum advance arm. To remove the trigger star from the rotor shaft, remove the plastic spark rotor and then use two flatblade screwdrivers to simultaniously pry upward on opposite sides of trigger wheel. Remove the vacuum advance canister before removing the breaker plate assembly. The screw that attaches the vacuum canister actuating rod only threads into the moveable advance plate, the special screw has a unthreaded end just sticks into the hole of the actuating rod. When reassembling a dizzy, use small needle nose pliers or magnetic phillips head screwdriver to install the special actuating rod screw, the rod must be held in place while the screw is threaded in to the advance plate so the unthreaded portion engauges the actuating rod hole. Only after the actuating rod is attached can you screw the vacuum canister to the dizzy body. To fiddle with the mechanical advance parts, you need to remove the upper portion of the rotor shaft (see photo below). To remove the shaft, pry out the rubber plug at the end of the shaft hiding the retaing screw. Remove the retaining screw and the upper portion of the shaft should easily slip off. I have encountered upper shafts that were corroded to the lower shaft. If the upper shaft cannor freely slide and rotate the mechanical advance will not function so clean and lube upper shaft before reassembly.

 

Vacuum Advance Mechanism Problems

 

Before you harvest a JY dizzy, check the condition of the vacuum advance canister. Approx 2/3 of the canisters I find in JY leak. (check vacuum with a mity-vac or suck by mouth). New vacuum canisters cost approx $25 from nissan, part number 22301-7901 (a 280zx parts listing). Check the condition of the breaker plate assembly. The plate that mounts the trigger wheel should rotate freely. There are two sets of ball bearings that keep the breaker plate sliding smoothly. The 3 bearing on the bottom of the breaker plate assembly (below the fixed plate) are held by a metal cage and are trouble free. The 3 bearings in the middle of the assembly, directly below the moveable breaker plate are retained in a plastic cage that usualy is broken. The grease that lubes the bearings dries up and the feeble plastic bearing cage gets brittle resulting in "floppy cage syndrom". The cage breaks, the bearings are no longer held in place soslip out and the upper portion of moveable plate will be able to "rock" side to side giving imprecise timing and can evetualy damage the magnetic trigger. New replacement breaker plates incorperating the plastic part are supposably available new from Nissan for $35 but I have been able to fix them myself. Dissasemble the breaker plate assembly by removing the circlip holding the bottom metal cage. Pay carefull attention to the position and fit of the various metal plates sandwiched together. These are thin spring-steel plates that the bearings roll on, these shouldnt be worn or grooved by the bearings. It is fairly simple to fabricate a new bearing cage to replace the broken cage. I just found a flat piece of soft plastic with thickness slightly thinner than diameter of the bearing. Using a pair of scissors and a knife, I cut out a new bearing cage to replace the broken cage, works like new. Once assembled, both sets of the bearings are held in place by the "spring" tension of the metal lower bearing cage, it is not terribly important that the homemade replacement bearing cage hold the 3 bearings precisely, you just need the plastic cage to hold the bearings in place while assembling. To re-assemble the breaker plate mechanism, install the lower steel bearing retainer cage without the 3 lower bearings and install the circlip holding the metal retainer in place. Once the circlip is in place, pry each of the spring cage arms upward to slip each bearing into the cage.

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Has anyone tried to use the 8 plug distributor? There is another distributor that has a thin round piece of aluminum with an inductive pickup that looks similar to the model that uses a separate igniter box located in the kick panel.

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Why would you want to use a 8-plug distributor unless you have an 8-plug engine?

 

What kind of Datsun are you working on?

 

working on a 78 620 Lil hustler. The reason i would use an 8 plug distributor is because they are much easier to acquire than the dizzy and usually in much better shape.

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  • 5 years later...

Datzenmike, I took apart my '73 Dizzy as well as the breaker plate assembly and just found your post today. I decided to spray brake cleaner inside the dizzy to clean the debris off. But I noticed grease on the breaker plate afterwards and cleaned it off. Can you tell me where I need to apply grease? Do i just use general purpose grease? You mentioned bearings underneath the fixed plate, so obviously i would grease those bearings seats. Is there any between the plates or inside the smaller bearing cage holes?

 

Also regarding the brake cleaner, I only took off the fixed plate leaving the rest of the governor and stuff intact. Should I be worried that the brake cleaner wears any hidden part at that point or am I fine if I leave it as is?

 

Thanks for the input

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working on a 78 620 Lil hustler. The reason i would use an 8 plug distributor is because they are much easier to acquire than the dizzy and usually in much better shape.

 

Due to the lack of L dizzys in my locale, I used a 8 plug on my LZ23.

That said......my Z22/Z24 8 plug dizzys would not fit the L timing chain cover.

Sooooo....I installed a Z22 TC cover with the top of a L cover 'grafted' to it. Now the TC cover seals properly to the L head.

 

P9080017_zps56a657c0.jpg

 

P9070016_zps4c148631.jpg

 

PC100010.jpg

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Use general purpose high temp grease. I use wheel bearing grease.

 

The distributor needs grease wherever there is a friction surface:

Points cam

Bearing plate around balls

Shaft bushing

Bushing shims

Bearing plate rotation

Mechanical advance slots

Vacuum advance lever & pin

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