SRSANDS Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 So I wheeled my dime out in the sun for the first time sine I owned it, during body work phase. I started it up and let it run for a bit. I shut it down and went for the nieghors foor some beers and dinner. When I got back I was messing wioth the engine bay and the coil was super siuper hot! What is the deal? Is this normal? Whats wrong :confused: Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 sounds like its getting constant power... Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Ughhh duh...Ya Im a boner today...all day Ive been doin dmb shit....the key was on ok....next question. I unplugged the two wires when I freaked out. What color goes to positive and neg so I can hook it back up....thanks Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 print this Dont you have a Haynes maunual??????? Putting 12volts on a pointtype 1.5 ohm COIL will Cook them!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 never done that before :o Putting 12volts on a pointtype 1.5 ohm COIL will Cook them!!!!!!!!!!! sometimes you get lucky(when you leave the key ON ) and the points are open = nothing happens :mellow: Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Sorry I forgot to ad....its a matchbox dizzy and accel coil Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Put in a MSD Blaster 2 coil as they are designed for straight 12volts. A Supercoil is a really still a point coil that comes with a .85 ballast resisitor also to be added to the coil in series. some on here run them on Matchboxes and work OK But I myself will not do this as I want total relaibility. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) some on here run them on Matchboxes and work OK But I myself will not do this as I want total relaibility. ...... you can't beat the factory set up. When was the last time someone posted.... "my factory matchbox stopped working what do I do" or "my factory coil overheated and blew a hole in my fender".... it's because the factory ignition works. You want shiny Axxel coil, just paint your stock one yellow... and paint the wires as well. Edited March 13, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
az_rat210 Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) ...... you can't beat the factory set up. When was the last time someone posted.... "my factory matchbox stopped working what do I do" or "my factory coil overheated and blew a hole in my fender".... it's because the factory ignition works. You want shiny Axxel coil, just paint your stock one yellow... and paint the wires as well. Actually you can beat the Factory Coil Setup. As mentioned above, MSD Blaster 2 Coil, they are designed to handle 12-14 volts direct. Pull Power direct from the battery via a Bosch Relay for a Full 14.5 Volts, you get a 48-50K Spark to Plugs. More Power, Better Mileage. Works every time on the older cars, as you're no longer suffering a voltage drop across all the ignition wires. Erm, but that is just the coil, not the distributor......I do still use the factory electronic ignition module.:D Solid Transistor State for surivability.:P Edited March 18, 2009 by az_rat210 Quote Link to comment
dreamers_vault Posted March 21, 2009 Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 but what is the coil is super hot after the engine running for a while? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 21, 2009 Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 deamers vault!!!!!!! this is a stock wireing for a 510. a stock COIl is 1.6 ohm or close to it. also the ballast resistor is 1.6 ohms. If COil is HOT you did some thing to change this!!!!!!!! Like too out the ballast resistor. Quote Link to comment
dreamers_vault Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 owh...i thought my oil base coil going to fault anytime soon.. + = iginition , rpm - = dist im not using any ballast resistor anymore..could that be the problem?:blink: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 22, 2009 Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 Tell me what ignition you running?????POints or eleltronic If you still have points Put the ballast resistor back in!!!!!!!!! Why you take it out? If you have a Electronic ignition you need a Eletronic ignition coil.!!! I need more infor than my coil gets HOT? It got Hot for a reason/ Tell me what distributor you have and Coil if it was changed. But otherwise if you have points go to the drawing I gave you I remeber those 3 cars you had photos of. One went to the junk yard. Get part off it!!!!!!!! What most people do is get a Eletronic ignition and remove the ballast resisito on their POINT COIL and then it gets HOT . that is wrong. Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted March 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Hainz, I got a electronic dizzy...matchbox out of a nissan truck. The coil I have also came out of the same truck, it is chrome and I believe its an accel, it had a crusty sticker on it I just cant recall what it was before I cleaned it up and took it off. I think it may have got hot from leaving my ignition on the on position too long....constant power. It shouldnt get that hot I believe from what your saying, but it still fires right up so......I dunno. Im gonna get the thing painted and drive it up to franks, then I can meet you and you can maybe check out if I have nething bad goin on Quote Link to comment
dreamers_vault Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Tell me what ignition you running?????POints or eleltronicIf you still have points Put the ballast resistor back in!!!!!!!!! Why you take it out? If you have a Electronic ignition you need a Eletronic ignition coil.!!! I need more infor than my coil gets HOT? It got Hot for a reason/ Tell me what distributor you have and Coil if it was changed. But otherwise if you have points go to the drawing I gave you I remeber those 3 cars you had photos of. One went to the junk yard. Get part off it!!!!!!!! What most people do is get a Eletronic ignition and remove the ballast resisito on their POINT COIL and then it gets HOT . that is wrong. im still using stock dizzy with contact point..lucas oil base coil..no ballast resistor.. hmm...but my foreman told me that it mayb the coil is going to fault anytime soon...:confused: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 (edited) Dreamers Vault. put the ballast resistor back in like in the drawing I showed. Point ignition needs a ballast resisitor. I would also put the orginal coil back in also. Do you know the Ohm value of that Lucas Coil???? if not put the stock coil back in. If it worked before you changed it then you know its the wrong part you out in. All coils have oil in them!!!!!!!! SRSANDS The truck had this coil? Was truck running? the Chrome small Accel coil is really a point coil or 1.4 ohms coil designed to run at 6-9volts. You either need to add a ballast resisitor or just Get a MSD coil and no need to run a ballast . Matchbox + MSDBlaster 2 coil=EZ install. Edited March 23, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Dreamaers vault use this. Just put back waht you had in there!!!!!!!!!!! ballast resisitor is 1.6 ohms Coil is 1.6 ohms Quote Link to comment
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