ddrum

ok, so i was cleaning the piston rods on the floor and accidentally tipped over a piston and this is what happened to it.... they seem to be cheap material,this wouldn't of happened to the stock ones it had. What can happen if i install cheap material pistons? This is my first overhaul and need this engine to last me through college. Should i just try to find some other pistons?

My friends have told me to put an after market muffler on my 620, but the quiet one just sounds good and i never get tired of it.

i took my block to get cut down by this local machine shop, and they got them for me in a few hours, i was surprised they had these somewhere here in el paso tx.

Has anyone heard or used This brand before? I just bought some .50mm sized pistons for my L20b, but i have never heard of this brand. Any info will be appreciated. Erick

so it doesnt matter? and i caught that also on silvolite. On summit the 9048s are cheaper, so i guess ill be buying those.

what is the difference between 9048 and the 9071, my engine is out of a 1980 720 L20b, and my pistons look like the 9071, can i get 9048 instead? :confused:

Not trying to thread jack but, the same thing has been happening to me i bought a set of std Hasting piston rings for my L20b and the ring gap is too wide, then i bought some Sealed power and they are a little tighter but not tight enough. And i dont know where to get .25mm over rings.

If you are underage no drinking? c'mon! :poke: :)

Cool, good to know thanks a lot datsunaholic and Datzenmike.

double post fail haha

they look different on each rod... L20b by the way

As i was taking off the old rod bearings from the piston rods, I found some wear on the rod oil hole. Has anyone seen this before? Is it common?

i tried this time with a .002 and it bearly went in, just the tip. can i call it good?

Yeah it only clears one side with the .004 one, but the book says .002 to .007. I'm going to take it to the machine shop and see what happens.

Yeah I'll double check it thanks a lot. :)

should i move it before torquing it down or after?

I'm starting to reassemble my l20b and I already checked the oil clearances using plastigage and everything is fine. I put the center main bearing cap and torque it to 40 ft lbs. I pushed the crankshaft forward and my filler Gage which starts at .004 inches, did go in. I pushed it back and the filler Gage didn't want to go in. My brother recently rebuilt his Dodge 318 and the same thing happened when checking end play. Only one side cleared, but he said that was fine since everything was under standard specs on his engine. My crankshaft on the other hand, has been shaved .25mm only on the main bearings. So my question is, does the crankshaft end play have to clear on both ends? or am i going to have to take it back to get machined? Thanks, Erick

I also use for work, to bad the previous owner shaved everything! and took out one leaf from each leaf s ring .

^ that is badass!

I'm about to rebuild mine with new rings, main bearings, and rod bearings, but i also have a brand new rebuilt head, what would you all recommend? i was thinking just drive it normally and don't rev it to much since i don't have a tachometer. Then just change the oil after 500 miles.

Slap those 15s in the front dude! :)

Man that Datto took a beating! she looks like a cute chick though. B)

when you press the brakes it makes a popping sound right? and then the truck feels like the brakes are dragging? this happens to my truck and it is because of my wheel cylinders (cheap Oreilly's quality) . The small cylinder inside the wheel cylinder pops out when i hit the brakes hard and they kinda get stuck for a little while.

what does that 34# on the piston mean? i just opened my 1980 L20b and the psitons have the same number on top.

I'm not a photographer myself, but I'm going to take a photography class next semester, and that is a very cool picture! :thumbup: