ddrum

I had to buy one from a hardware store with a couple of washers as it was a tad longer

Thank you Datzenmike, I will take it apart tomorrow!

That's awesome! I hope its just adjustment! It was running fine around 7 years ago, then it just sat in a parts stash. Datzenmike, how does one adjust it?

Hello, I just finished the process of converting my 1972 510 into electronic ignition. The car starts and runs just fine, but I noticed a tapping sound that came from the distributor itself. Turns out the teeth dont line up evenly. Does anyone know if these are still rebuildable? And if they are what parts would I need to aling the teeth in the center? Thank you, Erick

So I followed Datzenmikes advice and it seems to work! Time will tell. Here is a picture of what I was talking about being off center. In the following picture you can see i elongated the hole to correct for the offset of the distributor collar for the pin to go through the matchbox distributor

Awesome, a 72 four door auto just like mine!! Thanks for sharing, and what a great history you must have with the car! Erick

Mine is a floor shift yenpit

Yes, that is exactly what needs to be done in order to make the pin go through

Hmm that might just work, ill give that a try!

It's not centered, only by a bit but enough so the pin wont go all the way through, but on the points, its perfectly centered. Its really bizarre! I don't have any pictures right now, ill try taking some tomorrow morning, but I tried installing the collar onto the matchbox and it fit, but the hole never lines up no matter how its put in (that's what she said).

Yes, it is different from the pedestal

Ill try and post it again. Well my original question was to know if I really need it, since it broke off the matchbox which im trying to install on my 510.

Its the bottom collar and pin Hainz

Thank you so much Datzenmike, I tried installing the original L16 dual points Dizzy collar on it, but the collar pin goes in offset on the L16 and wont aling with the matchbox. Erick

I have a question, I have a spare matchbox distributor from a old truck that i got into an accident with, the potential problem is that is base got broken. My question being, can I run it like this on an L16?

And the clutch is a normal thread

Exactly, the only difference is the bracket for the clutch return spring being in the manual pedal box. I thought about just swapping the pedals, but I had found a good deal 3 years ago and got all the parts in was missing, like the tunnel cover and clutch fork for $100, so ended swapping the whole thing. 1 thing to keep in mind if you are doing this, the brake pedal bolt is a reverse thread, so it comes out turning it clockwise.

Awesome, good to know all this. Thank you all for the information! I really appreciate all the help! I will do exactly that and will come back to verify, just in case someone else in the future has the same question! Thank you, Erick

Datzenmike, thank you very much! So its basically by trial and error more or less then. I appreciate your quick response!

Hello, so I am in the process of converting my 1972 510 Sedan from auto to a manual transmission and in the process I had to take out then steering column to make room for the manual pedal box assembly. My questions is, is there a specific way too install the steering column for alignment? Also the steering gear inside the column fell out of place and I also dont know if I have to "clock" it in a certain direction. Any help is greatly appreciated! Erick

Yes, so pretty much it won't hold the truck from rolling even on a very small slope. Ill look under the truck tomorrow and look for the adjustment. Is it adjustable with simple tools? im guessing a wrench? I looked at where the cables meet but I couldn't figure out exactly how or where to adjust them. Thank you Datzenmike

Hello everyone. So I recently got my 79 620 up and running after not driving it for two years. I did a head gasket replacement since it blew. Then I started working on the brakes and noticed brake fluid was missing each morning. Turned out that the master cylinder was bad. I changed it and started bleeding the brakes and noticed the booster was leaking fluid into the inside of the cab. Well, I took it off and it was full of brake fluid. Well then I sent it out through Rock auto about a month ago and got it completely rebuilt with seals and all. It's awesome that they can still rebuild them. Ok so I adjusted the rear drum brakes and I have a firm and great braking truck. The thing is in order to pass inspection, the E brake needs to work but it doesn't quite brake the truck. It works way better after adjusting the rear drums but still doesn't catch fully. My question is, is there any other way to adjust and if there is, from where? Thanks, Erick

Carterb, thank you so much for this! I changed this seal yesterday on my 1979 620 and it everything went smoothly! I followed and studied this post. Now I can drive my Datsun with peace in mind!