marky510

NPR, what was the final concensus on George Moses? Did you get anything from him?

Hey guys and gals, Not sure if anyone has a source for the 521 glovebox, but on ebay there is a company that is doing several other models but not the 521. Just got one for my 312 and it's pretty nice and sturdy. If someone has a half decent one that they would be willing to send in to have a template made, they would be able offer these up. Ebay id is musclemaniac5. Directo contact is Mike, mw74cuda@netzero.com Check out there store for what they are making. And, I am in no way affiliated with them and make no profit either. Just hoping to get a glove box for my 521. Mark

Anyone have a line on the glovebox rubber bumpers for a 312 or 320? I believe they should be the same. Mark

Thanks Mike, I was thinking that was the issue. And my front brakes on the 312 were inspired from all your work that you've been posting over the years. Thank you for all your hard work.

anyone know how to get rid of the photobucket overlay?

As requested... Just did rear lowering blocks, still need to go down a little more but waiting until mostly assembled. I will be doing a build thread on this so watch for it. The day I picked it up The day it was delivered to me I don't have too many pics of this, but pretty much current state of rust repair Getting ready to go to Historics last August for the Nissan event. My old 521 behind it. Sold this late last year. The buyer finished it up and it just sold on BaT.

Need to get them off my phone, will post some later after work.

Thanks for all the info. Found the 521 cylinders and Rockauto, hopefully they actually have them, but watching the ebay ones just in case Rockauto falls thru. The rear brake hose I'm going to try and retro the 521 hose to a clip style... Lemme see if I have some pics... I know y'all love pics

Hey guys, looking for a source for rear wheel cylinders for my L320. Brake hose source would be good too without going braided. Thanks for help. Mark

Hey Jeff, Awesome build so far. Can't wait to see it drive. One thing I noticed is you didn't verify bearing clearances on your rods like you did on your mains.

I just looked at my SSS Coupe glove box in storage and it is the checkered flag. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZkMDcGtpPdQuHaTa8

I've used these in the past with good results: This for lower part of door below window frame https://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I And this I've used in the window channels with a very stiff toothbrush or a nylon brush around the same size. It won't touch the dried rubber of the old seal but it will soften the adhesive https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B00Y957GWC/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1518885860&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=051135-08984 Hope this helps

Hogie, Cool to see another one. I'm in the middle of getting mine back together enough to drive. The roadster suspension is the same front and rear, except front anti-roll bar and front springs. On brake upgrades, if you're able to get the front spindles off a Roadster, then all those options open up to you. I opted to put a Roadster rear axle assembly that gives me the 9" rear drums. Or you can do just the backing plates and drums. Hope this helps. Mark PS, I'm missing a front grill as well....if you happen to find 2?

Alrighty ... Thanks so much checking all of that. I'll check thru my myriad of boxes that my helper filled up with 312 pieces, hopefully there is a pigtail harness that I need. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted of the results. Mark

Sorry guys just re-read what I wrote and very rambling. Wayno - in the pic you can see I only have 1 male bullet (ground) available to plug into the dash harness. Yet I have 2 female bullets on the harness (power and ground). What do I plug into the female bullet (power) from the options in the pic? If I disconnect the blue section and plug that to power, runs motor constant bypassing the switch and resistor pack. Second question - not really important, but curious. Can you run your blower motor with key off, is it hot all the time? DanielC - How many wires are going into your resistor pack? 3 or 4?

Hey everybody, Looking for a little help figuring at the wiring for my heater blower circuit. Here's the situation: I actually have a 312 wagon, I'm 90% sure everything is the same from the doors forward. So... when I got the wagon the blower switch was missing in the dash. I did not pull the heater box personally so I'm not sure how the wiring goes back together. My helper didn't understand to label everything as it came apart (language barrier apparently). Attached is a pic of the heater box and wiring if someone could tell me what's wrong with pic. On the dash harness near where the switch goes I have a blue wire (female bullet) 12v hot all the time and black wire (female bullet) ground. The 4pin connector in the pic only has 3 wires pinned in and 1 open. I guess I'm confused on how to power to the heater box/switch circuit. As I'm posting this... do I need to the power in the open pin on the connector? If anyone has a pic of their blower switch out of the dash that I could see the connector and wires, that would be awesome. All of the wiring diagrams I have found don't truly show how it should be. Thanks for any help, Mark

Hey Everyone, I'm in the middle of wiring my sr20de s14 non-turbo into my wpl312. Found some inconsistencies in the info I have gathered that I was hoping someone could help sort out for me. So this is what I have, Icehouse's CAN AM box, my ECU is a WA #23710-65F00 A18-000 G50 and using this diagram Here's my issues: On run1 and run2 of the CAN AM box are brown and black/red harness wires both 12v positive. My brown harness wires are tied together and go to the 3 wire O2 sensor plug and the VVT solenoid plug no big deal. The problem arises with the black/red wire on the O2 sensor that is tied into the run2 on CAN AM box and goes to pins 36 and 109 on ECU plug. So.... is brown actually supposed to be 12v or a ground. O2 sensor should have 12v, ground and white signal to ECU. Also, CAN AM box FP2 shows black/yellow to Air Regulator, my motor does not have a regulator just IACV and a/c idle up solenoid. IACV wires are light blue and black/yellow. Secondary questions for clarification. The VVT solenoid has 2 wires, brown and yellow. Assuming brown is ground, is yellow wire pulse width modulated power by ECU? And is the IACV ground side modulated by light blue wire? Thanks for any help is great appreciated, Mark

Just found this how-to. It sounds great and I'm going to be doing this to a few of my cars. But the pictures have gone missing, not loading up. Are they still around still? Mark

C&S Automotive. Come by and say hi. Mark

Hey Josh, is there any metalic in that color? I've been looking for something similar to tool gray for my 312 wagon but haven't seen anything yet. Was looking at possibly 64 IH gray blue but old color codes are hard to get mixed if not impossible.

It looks like your float level is a little high ;)

Hey everyone, I'm looking for JDM engine suppliers in LA area. I'm trying to avoid going the way of Ebay to an SR20. Any and all help is appreciated. Mark

Any updates on the SR20DET install?

I'll be getting it up in the air today or tomorrow, so i'll get some pics of everything.