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About marky510

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  • Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
  • Cars
    1970 Datsun Roadster 1600
  1. Hey Jeff, Awesome build so far. Can't wait to see it drive. One thing I noticed is you didn't verify bearing clearances on your rods like you did on your mains.
  2. I just looked at my SSS Coupe glove box in storage and it is the checkered flag. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZkMDcGtpPdQuHaTa8
  3. I've used these in the past with good results: This for lower part of door below window frame https://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I And this I've used in the window channels with a very stiff toothbrush or a nylon brush around the same size. It won't touch the dried rubber of the old seal but it will soften the adhesive https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B00Y957GWC/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1518885860&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=051135-08984 Hope this helps
  4. Hogie, Cool to see another one. I'm in the middle of getting mine back together enough to drive. The roadster suspension is the same front and rear, except front anti-roll bar and front springs. On brake upgrades, if you're able to get the front spindles off a Roadster, then all those options open up to you. I opted to put a Roadster rear axle assembly that gives me the 9" rear drums. Or you can do just the backing plates and drums. Hope this helps. Mark PS, I'm missing a front grill as well....if you happen to find 2?
  5. Alrighty ... Thanks so much checking all of that. I'll check thru my myriad of boxes that my helper filled up with 312 pieces, hopefully there is a pigtail harness that I need. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted of the results. Mark
  6. Sorry guys just re-read what I wrote and very rambling. Wayno - in the pic you can see I only have 1 male bullet (ground) available to plug into the dash harness. Yet I have 2 female bullets on the harness (power and ground). What do I plug into the female bullet (power) from the options in the pic? If I disconnect the blue section and plug that to power, runs motor constant bypassing the switch and resistor pack. Second question - not really important, but curious. Can you run your blower motor with key off, is it hot all the time? DanielC - How many wires are going into your resistor pack? 3 or 4?
  7. Hey everybody, Looking for a little help figuring at the wiring for my heater blower circuit. Here's the situation: I actually have a 312 wagon, I'm 90% sure everything is the same from the doors forward. So... when I got the wagon the blower switch was missing in the dash. I did not pull the heater box personally so I'm not sure how the wiring goes back together. My helper didn't understand to label everything as it came apart (language barrier apparently). Attached is a pic of the heater box and wiring if someone could tell me what's wrong with pic. On the dash harness near where the switch goes I have a blue wire (female bullet) 12v hot all the time and black wire (female bullet) ground. The 4pin connector in the pic only has 3 wires pinned in and 1 open. I guess I'm confused on how to power to the heater box/switch circuit. As I'm posting this... do I need to the power in the open pin on the connector? If anyone has a pic of their blower switch out of the dash that I could see the connector and wires, that would be awesome. All of the wiring diagrams I have found don't truly show how it should be. Thanks for any help, Mark
  8. Hey Everyone, I'm in the middle of wiring my sr20de s14 non-turbo into my wpl312. Found some inconsistencies in the info I have gathered that I was hoping someone could help sort out for me. So this is what I have, Icehouse's CAN AM box, my ECU is a WA #23710-65F00 A18-000 G50 and using this diagram Here's my issues: On run1 and run2 of the CAN AM box are brown and black/red harness wires both 12v positive. My brown harness wires are tied together and go to the 3 wire O2 sensor plug and the VVT solenoid plug no big deal. The problem arises with the black/red wire on the O2 sensor that is tied into the run2 on CAN AM box and goes to pins 36 and 109 on ECU plug. So.... is brown actually supposed to be 12v or a ground. O2 sensor should have 12v, ground and white signal to ECU. Also, CAN AM box FP2 shows black/yellow to Air Regulator, my motor does not have a regulator just IACV and a/c idle up solenoid. IACV wires are light blue and black/yellow. Secondary questions for clarification. The VVT solenoid has 2 wires, brown and yellow. Assuming brown is ground, is yellow wire pulse width modulated power by ECU? And is the IACV ground side modulated by light blue wire? Thanks for any help is great appreciated, Mark
  9. Just found this how-to. It sounds great and I'm going to be doing this to a few of my cars. But the pictures have gone missing, not loading up. Are they still around still? Mark
  10. C&S Automotive. Come by and say hi. Mark
  11. Hey Josh, is there any metalic in that color? I've been looking for something similar to tool gray for my 312 wagon but haven't seen anything yet. Was looking at possibly 64 IH gray blue but old color codes are hard to get mixed if not impossible.
  12. It looks like your float level is a little high ;)
  13. Hey everyone, I'm looking for JDM engine suppliers in LA area. I'm trying to avoid going the way of Ebay to an SR20. Any and all help is appreciated. Mark
  14. marky510

    320 with an SR20DET

    Any updates on the SR20DET install?
  15. I'll be getting it up in the air today or tomorrow, so i'll get some pics of everything.
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