Soundline

I’ll probably be there in a Jeep.

Cheers to reviving a dead thread. I’ve been diligently scouring the forum regarding the Saturn swap and I’ve seen a mixed bag of modifications that need to be done. Putting this in a 74’ 620 with an L20 swap. I’m good on the wiring, but what structural changes need to occur? Do I need to change a hose inlet? Bracket changes? Suggestions are always welcome.

I just ordered all the parts. I did opt for a Denso Reman 120 amp version instead. For about $200 there’s a 200 amp version of the same alternator. You know... in case you want a 50” light bar and some siiiiiiiiick beats...

Which direction should I push them? Or is that just too big for a 620?

Anyone have any experience with 18x8 -19mm offset and 3.75” backspace. I’m thinking 225/40R18 tires and hopefully they’ll slide right into place. My 620 has a 3” drop in the rear and torsion bars cranked down in the front.

Thanks, it gets hot as **** here, so I’ll look at aftermarket options.

You have enough kids to field a full NFL team and none of them can run a lawnmower? Well, guess you need to have a few more.

To avoid redundancy in threads, are there any additional modifications needed for a 74’ 620? My rad is leaking... again... and I’m looking to replace it for a L20B that’s already installed.

As long as they bring back the Bronco II were good.

I’m not using mine. I could drop it off tomorrow after I finish up some funeral arrangements. The man that raised me passed Thursday.

Well....shiiiiiiiiiiiiit... Ok, so, I just ordered all the crap I need to do it, I’ll attempt the install and if it fucks up I’ll order Mike’s stuff. It is what it is I guess. Thanks for the tip gents.

WTF m8? Look, just because you have a balla azz Car like a Lex doesn’t mean you HAVE to ahow it off. What’s up with the datto?

My attendance is strictly based on Hobo and Gato “motivating” me to get my truck welded back together. Build starts for real in two weeks.

Also, bought some Beebani brake brackets a while ago, and I just ordered a bunch of parts: From a 1979 620: CENTRIC Master Cylinder 13042303 From a 1987 D21 RWD: CENTRIC Caliper. 14142034 CENTRIC Caliper. 14142033 CENTRIC brake hose 15042025 CENTRIC brake hose 15042026 PowerStop Rotor and Pad Kit KOE4837 Timken Wheel Bearing SET3 Timken Wheel Bearing SET5 Ordered as a separate item by part number: Dorman 13912 Thread M10-1.0; length 27.5 mm Hex. 11m Hydraulic Hose to Caliper Bolt (ordered 2) M10 sized copper crush washers x2

Still haven’t found an image hosting site. But I’m gutting the entire interior and customizing it. It’s going to look ghetto AF for a while

True, but I’m just rehashing an old topic. It has changed slightly since new products have hit the market. For my next trick I’m going to try to shove a different radiator in my truck...

Ahhhhhh I get it. Ok, sorry for wasting everyone’s time. Is blue hand beebani? Or are those different people? I’m ordering the stuff I need now.

Ack... looks like I’m wasting my time... good ol wayno covered this like ten years ago

Cool, so I’d need to take the whole front end out of the donor. It looks like the ball trucks are going to ride better.

Is this a direct swap or are other parts needed? What do I need from the donor truck?

S&W. Colt’s internals are slightly different sizes and are not interchangeable. I went through this with the police patrol rifles in 2010-15. Dealing with colt was a fucking nightmare as well. S&W... standard mil-spec or commercial parts. Break a spring, wanna replace some factory shit with go fast shit, or if you want to carry an extra firing pin for the zombie apocalypse, do the S&W. You wanna brag about how you have a Colt.... buy a Colt.

The old buckets? They’re too far gone for paint... they look like a vampire that met Blade in a dark alley. I’ll just have to cruise Canaby next year and see if I can find some.

So, yep, they worked before and after I installed the license plate light. They stopped working after a fairly mild pothole. I pulled my steering wheel off and cleaned all the contacts on the column switch. Then replaced all the fuses, and cleaned the corrosion off the contacts there. I traced it out and checked the tail lights. The wiring is good back to the buckets which... were fucked. So I ended up replacing them with the Thai buckets I bought in Jan. Yeah, they’re ugly compared to the stock ones, but they’re not corroded through. Thanks for the tips guys. I’m back on the road again

This is both a test to see if this works, and relevant to the topic. It looks like the license plate light is supposed to go directly to ground off the GL wire, which is the wire I used. So, unless I’m retarded and ran it wrong (always possible) then I have yet another gremlin in my electrical system

Cool, I’ll try those both tomorrow. Thanks guys.