sick620

Datsun Mike probably has an answer. I just swapped trannys in a truck. The truck has a l20b in it. Not sure of year. Probably a 76-78 620 l20b. It had a blown up 4speed in it (long tail). We got a Longtail tranny at junk yard out of a 78 kc. Not sure if it was original to that truck or not. Anyways when we swapped trannys we left the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate un touched, we used our fork, collar, and throwout bearing on our tranny on the replacement tranny. We went and purchased a new slave cylinder for a 78 620, maybe a 79 620.dont recall which..... Well the truck starts and runs in neutral, but when you press clutch won't go in gear. As if the throwout bearing doesn't hit pressure plate, like it's not long enough. Did I need the collar that came with this tranny? Fork? Possible our slave cylinder doesn't have a long enough rod? I bled the shit out of the system, and the fork moves what looks to be the full range of motion that the slave cylinder is capable of. Ideas?

Update, Projects have been greatly slowed due to a big problem with each truck. The black truck needed a tranny, we spent a good long day swapping in a 4speed we got from the junk yard. Got it in, and too our horror the truck doesn't go into gear while running. Our throw out bearing must not be able to reach the pressure plate. Housing must be too short. We used the housing and throw out bearing that was in old tranny and matched to our engine. I guess we needed the housing that came with tranny? As for the red truck all of a sudden one day my blow by got really bad, started losing power, and now I'm pretty sure she has a blown head gasket. Swapping in a running $200 l20b pulled from a friend's ka swapped truck. I'll rebuild the l20b that was in it in the mean time. On a side note, when I blew the headgasket I decided I need another car to depend on when the 620 is down. So I got me this 77 toyota corona rt105 with new paint, enkies,new Weber, 20r, and new windshield. It needs interior work, front lowered a bit, alignment, valve stem seals. Runs good.

Cold foggy after Christmas morning. Truck drives just fine all the way to work. Couple blocks away and the pedal starts to feel a little sticky, comes up slowly and engages and disengages high up on pedal. Figured I was low on fluid or bad slave cylinder. Pulled into work parking lot and truck wouldn't go forward just reved up in first! Then from neutral won't go in gear while running. And starts in first and doesn't Rev up or go forward. I've never had symptoms of dieing clutch. Could my slave cylinder be froze a little way out or some small issue, or can it only be the clutch? :(

Yeah they are American Racing. Can't wait to test fit. Need something for the black truck now ;)

The new wheels for the kc 620 Anyone know the brand?

What years of pinto ran these shocks?

Love ur thread keep it up! How have your pinto shocks held up?... Love longbeds, they look really good slammed, look extra low cuz they are so long.

Take it to exhaust shop and tell them you need it mounted higher as close to cab as possible.

Does anyone have a kc flat glass back window for sale or trade? I have an extra single cab one I could trade.

Update: posted more pictures including some of the single cab.

Get a new fuel pump. Fixed :)

Anyone have a picture? Interested in what trim looks like?

Cool Mike well I can see and understand your theory on firm being better while low, and more springrate being optimal. So I'm definitely going to figure something out in back.(probably 4x4 leaves). I've had lots of 620s lowered with just leaves pulled. But this one is riding like shit, and I think that's mostly just age and a need for quality now.

Okay since you bring up 4x4 leafs. If I go grab me a set from the jy, will they just bolt on to my 620 shackles with stock bushings? Will I need to replace my bushings at that time as well? If my bushings are OK can l run them for a bit?

You could put a buffing pad on it, and Polish your Datsun with it. Take that vw!

everything he said! Lol... If it runs and drives, brakes make it stop OK, and there is only limited rust. The price is worth it. I guess the biggest thing is are you prepared to work on a car? Even if it had 5 miles on it I'd ask this because the parts are 40+ years old and it's going to need most of them replaced or tinkered with in time. I guarantee after buying it the alternator, starter, slave cylinder, radiator, and or carburetor will go or be having issues. And if none of that sounds too daunting, well good, you are ready to be a Datsun owner ;).

Okay so I'm with you guys on the leafs I'm disliking the ride I have with the removed leaf. Does anyone have a picture of a 4x4 leafed 620 on 3 inch blocks to compare ride hight with what I have now?

Has anybody ever painted cloth seats black with fabric paint? Results?

Here's the 79. Has original l20b, 4speed, matchbox dizzy (stock), has some really clean mercury bucket seats In it. Running some 720 steel wheels with snow ❄ tires for now. Just got a Weber, a non smog intake, and l16 exhaust mani for it to clean up the engine bay more.

A friend and I recently picked up two 620's. One was mine, one was his. Paid $900 for my kc 79. Paid $300 for his 76 singlecab. He decided he didn't want his. He got a different car. So I now have 2 620s. Plans are to do a full build on the red truck. And a half ass fun artsy build on the black one. Our first project was to lower them. They were giving me a nose bleed so went with the cheapest fastest way possible for now. The kc we removed a leaf so it's down to just the main one and small overload plus 3 inch blocks. In the front just turned down the torsions all the way without reindexing them. Pulled all the bump stops. Truck still has travel in the front, back slaps frame on the smallest indentations in the road. Going to bag it soon anyways. As for the single cab we left leaf pack all in (believe someone already dearched them), 3 inch blocks, and turned torsions nearly all the way down. No reindexing. The single cab is stiffer in back and doesn't slap frame, front has good travel. Will probably just try new shocks on it and see how it rides. The kc also needs the exhaust tended too now because it hangs low and catches on everything now. The single cab had a pretty nice high n tight custom exhaust so no problems there. The 76. It has a rebuilt l20b. Weber carb. Nice exhaust. Runs really good. This is the reason the 76 was so cheap. This piece on tranny is broken so won't go in gear. So we picked this up, think it's just a 4 speed.

Side question. The truck is a short bed single cab 73 with short tail tranny. I have read that if I get a long tail tranny out of a late model 620, 280zx,maxima, etc it will bolt in with the front half of a late 620 driveline. BUT will it have to be a drive line from A short bed single cab? Or is a kc/longed the same length on the front half?