sick620

Updates: finally got the rear drums off went big on the hammer and it was pretty easy with five as hard as I could swing it wacks to one side of the drum… accidentally snapped one stud off though 😕 the wheel cylinders that rock auto sent for the back are not correct at all so it’ll be a few days before it gets put back together with all new parts.. We have all new shoes, drums, cylinders, and soft lines for it… couldn’t find new hardware for the back so have to reuse the old stuff but starting wire wheeling and painting everything for reinstall… Update 2: Started to disassemble L16 for a budget rebuild... edit* see future post engine ended up not being a good candidate to just hone and run, Rebuilt a different motor for it.

I’m considering driving a little ways to pick this up, $200 with an auto transmission l16 with the hitachi su carbs … price seems like a no brainer carbs alone are worth it… how do I ID this engine to know if it’s a sss motor? Is it likely for a sss motor to be attached to a auto? Most importantly anybody have a good link to info on l16sss and l18sss engines? I want to know the differences..

I have this same exact issue right now on my 210 except I was trying to remove the pcv and it snapped off flush with the intake, tried using an easy out and it didn’t come out and did this same exact crack in the same exact spot… I am also going to jb weld mine back up as well but now I have the issue of my pcv valve is still snapped off flush and never coming out of that hole… if I fill it up with jb weld what should I do with my crank case breather? Somewhere else I can run it to?

I got a complete set of hubcaps and some new tires mounted up… trying to figure out why when the car is off with the lights off one light stays on?

Well that sucks if I removed it and it ruined it…. will make someone a sweet onboard air pump I guess If I did ruin it..

Started to de smog and remove AC parts… if anyone is interested in them let me know… this round thing in front of valve cover in water neck what is it for? Does it need capped ?

jealous that thing is beautiful.. new seats look classier for sure, holly efi will be sweet.

wholly shit how am I the first one to comment on this! this thing is going to be crazy! you are saving this old rusty truck and saving the good bits and your widebody setup looks like it eliminates most of the rusty areas, very innovative.. cant wait to see this thing in driving shape.

I'm reading this thread right now while at work wearing full ppe gear because I work at a mental hospital and a few people may have the virus and if they wake up there is a 100% chance they will either try to touch me or attack me (wish I was exaggerating)...then they must be restrained while they try to bite spit etc... This ppe gear is such a joke tho, nobody wears it totally 100% correctly, taking it off haphazardly etc... Pretty much all of our staff have been out with the virus at this point and this gear is pointless, just appeases the karens.

Never really thought about how windows down a little would help it out… makes sense allowing carpet to dry out some…I’ll just order a cheap flux welder I think.

Yes it’s under the smog pump… worth keeping the York compressor in case I ever want to use as an airpump for air ride, or a train horn or to be able to run air tools on the side of the road? Lol

well it was quite the undertaking because it was pretty gross and stinky but I knew that I should start stripping the interior. it was so filthy and I didn’t even want to sit in the car… as I lifted carpet I was so surprised how nice the floors were and rust free, until I got to the front section 😔… the underside of the carpet and pad was so damp I knew without looking there was going to be rust.. as I hit the floor with the back of my screwdriver my heart sank 😞 …. I’ll probably just hit it with the flapper disc and por 15 whatever’s left of ok material, and self tap of couple sheets of metal over it so it’s functional and not rusting much further… then this will have to be the first major project after the car runs and drives… it’s mostly just the section where the occupants feet rest 🤦‍♂️… when I first saw the car before I ever planned on purchasing it The window was rolled down, so I rolled it up thinking “poor Datsun doesn’t want rained inside of” well however long that window was rolled down obviously took a toll… car is pretty rust free besides the obvious couple spots on the back sides of body… rockers look great and rest of underside isn’t too bad either.. but man does this take the wind out of my sails…

Okay thanks for the ideas I’ll prep it real good before I fire it for the first time..

B210 I just inquired has factory AC with York compressor… it’s 100% complete, haven’t had a chance to test it cars been sitting 25 years… if everything functions I’m sure at the very least it needs seals and converted to r134… 1. Will I be able to find seals or anything the system need to make it work? 2. I’ve heard converting old systems they don’t really get that cold is that correct? 3. If I take out the system to sell it is anyone interested in it? 4. If I remove it the ac and heat controls are included together so I’ll need a new heater core with controls probably?

Cool excited to see how it turns out… If you find any extra 120y emblems/bumpers let me know I’ll buy them off you would love to make my car either look aussie spec or get sunny badges for it..

So some updates… I was going to have to wait for the title, but look what I found in the glove box… the title! 😁 96,000 miles in 1984 last registration in 1988 123k original must be correct mileage for it … it got new spark plugs in 1988 as well so those are probably in good shape lol 😂 edit: also christened the car officially with the symbol of the all mighty ratsun rat n wrenches

Started buffing and removed trim pieces… if this was your car would you just go straight into freshening up the motor, or do you think there’s a chance it will run and and not smoke too bad? I just ordered and am waiting on an ignition(missing just the ignitions with has key and lock), fuel pump, carb rebuild kit, and fuel filter… gonna go through fuel system before I try to start it…. should I try to run it with this old motor? Should I put a little oil in cylinders before I run it to try and give rings a chance to seal?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Distributor-Fit-Nissan-A10-A12-A14-A15-Datsun-Sunny-B110-B210-B120-/384279671184?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 would it be easy to wire up one of these cheap electronic dist when I’m ready? I don’t see a matchbox on it, does it need anything else to run?

That would be awesome if you had a hubcap and I’ll definitely start making a parts list soon… I still think about the time you came down and looked off to the side of i84 and found a 510 wagon sitting, and I kick myself for not looking better and finding it myself lol…

Yeah points..

Anybody have one honeycomb hubcap? … waiting on the title, does anyone know how to tell year without the door badge? It’s missing

Was ac rare on these cars? Has ac… is it worth trying to get the ac going? overriders meaning bar on front bumper? Judging by pedal wear how many miles do you think it has?

We (my girlfriend and I) recently purchased her a 521 truck and have been fixing it up slowly (we have a project thread here on ratsun)… The guy we got it from bought a big estate of cars from Montana with multiple Datsuns and brought them back to idaho, he also had this B210, at first I was going to pass but couldn’t help myself it’s in pretty good shape, I must have contracted ratsun-19… brought it home today! It’s a 77 I believe last registered in 1988… 23k on dash and pedals in good shape so I’m assuming 123k original miles!