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Posts posted by Logical1
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I am accepting donations in the form of pl510's for tax vouchers...
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The rubber ones absolutely do not work with the aluminum valves covers unless you like oil leaking everywhere. I have tried to make them work, they don't. There is a channel in the steel covers that hold the gasket in place.
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I personally don't like the aluminum covers BECAUSE they use the cork gasket. The rubber gaskets last basically forever and are much easier to align.
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I just ordered tie rod ends, a pitman arm, and a idler off of rockauto.com. I asked my local napa if they could get me any of those parts... NOPE. The center link is not available to my knowledge however, if you replace all the other parts you should be fine as there are no ball joins in the center link, they only seat into it.
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Headgasket does not look blown, however plenty of corrosion in your water passages! Also lots of grime on your pistons.
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9 minutes ago, richURVAN said:
the coat hanger resembles more the tool used on the L series engines?
This is true. However, like I mentioned just trim the longer part a bit shorter. When you take you valve cover off and test it for fitment you will know what length it should be. The heater hose with a rod in it works great also. Once you get into it, you will figure out which way works best for you. I have been following this thread as I am VERY curious how the z engines over heat so badly in the van you have. My 85' 720 with a Z24, replacement radiator, & electric fan conversion runs almost too cold!
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20 hours ago, VFR800 said:
Sasha Grey - such a champ!
I had no idea who that was, just loved that ass! I do know WHO Sasha Grey is though...
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Well I have done over a dozen head gaskets on the Z series engines in 720 trucks and A10 cars. I never felt the need to pull the intake/exhaust. However that might be a different story in your van. If you have the clearance and a buddy just lift the whole thing off. As for your timing chain wedge, I have used that exact one before and I hated it. Not only is it way too soft of material, that silly little pull-line rips right out and you have to get in the timing cover with a pair of pliers and wrestle it out. The coat hanger you can drill a hole in and put some decent strength line through.
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Get a wooden coat hanger and snap it half. They are mostly two pieces glued together anyway. It is the exact shape you want and usually made out of a hardwood. Depending on the hanger you get you may have to trim the small end a bit shorter. I have a few lying around I will see if I can dig one out for exact dimensions and picture. This is the hanger type I am talking about:
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I could not agree more! if you dont have an engine hoist, two people can manage it easy. I have done it with both manifolds on by myself, but it is heavy! let the tools do the work!
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More than happy to help! I used to be a MSD fanatic with my 510 until I understood the true nature of the electronic ignition in newer (relatively) Datsuns. I had a MSD 6a wired up in my 510 with a matchbox and swore by it, removed it and it made no difference at all if not ran smoother. I am sure I can walk you through a direct wiring of the coils/distro with more pictures. The large red wire comes out of the distro and goes to the negative side of the coil (counter intuitive). Even if you want to go back to stock wiring you could do a temporary wire up like mine to check that the distro & coils are working. On another note, I just bought some property up in Show Low, Az and am moving soon, I would be happy to stop by and help out!
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You shouldn't need the MSD box as all the spark firing is done with the ignition module in the distro. I have revived many of these trucks by re-wiring the distro and coils in a simpler setup. You should read this thread:
https://ratsun.net/topic/80270-spark-when-key-is-turned-on-but-no-spark-when-cranked/
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I was working in downtown Seattle yesterday and went out for dinner. This entity, (obviously a guy transitioning to a woman in his mid 50's) was screaming at the bartender about not being able to get authentic Indian food from the establishment we were in (Indian food restaurant!) I was minding my own business during his ridiculous complaints and heard him say how if a business wants to survive they have to serve stronger drinks. I continued to mind my own business and talked to the bartender about how I am moving out of state soon while the jack-ass was now screaming to another lady at the bar about how bad the service was and they owed him something. He heard my conversation with the bartender and asked (@110db) WHY I AM MOVING?!?!?! I politely responded I was looking for a more rural setting and I had grown weary of Seattle. He asked why? I mentioned the crime/prices/population/traffic and he went full male Karen, saying that of that isn't an issue in the city, meanwhile disparaging country folks for being backwards and "theists" I mentioned that I am an atheist and I have never had a problem living in the country, while also mentioning that the cheesecake factory next door had just had the windows smashed a few hours ago. He brushed it off as a rare incident and the bartender said he had to hire 24/7 security because his own windows had been smashed recently. Man-Karen then tried to tell me about how offensive everyone outside of the west coast cities was and he cant wait for them to be put in their place. A guy next to me, spoke up and said to the Man-Karen: You are an idiot and the only offensive person here! I ended up chatting with him for a while and he was a major airline pilot out of Virginia. We had a great conversation about how truly insane the major cities on the west coast have gotten and if you were walking down the street with a mask on in Virginia they would probably commit you for insanity!
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They warm the intake during the cold and keep the intake the same temp as the block. The gasket doesn't provide for efficient thermal transfer. I wouldn't delete them, though the engine would still run in average temps...
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I use a fusible link direct from the battery, as I don't like burnt wires if the sheath gets rubbed off. I am still not sure why this fix has brought so many trucks back to life, I just havent put the time into figuring it out people just appreciate their truck running strong. Several of them the truck has been misfiring or running weak and after I re-wire them its like swapping old points for a matchbox...VROOM!
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This is a quick and dirty image of a setup. I run the switched hot to a kill switch and direct to the battery. Everything else is stock wiring taken out of that black box terminal block that is stock and run straight from the distro to the coils. Every truck I have done this to fires up and runs like a top. Ignore the small gauge red wire coming off the negative side of the upper coil, that is a direct run for an aftermarket tach on this truck.
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I am not sure about your newer distro but most of the stock ones also have a distro grounding spade lug next to the vacuum advance. I have brought many of these trucks back from horrible/barely/non-functioning by bypassing the stock wiring and direct wiring the distro and coils. Mike and I disagree about why this works and he knows his shit but I will post up a diagram of how I direct wire the ignition system that has worked for me with over a dozen of these trucks.
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I could not agree more, just like I posted in Covid19... Shit is truly getting absurd under the guise of equality.
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50 minutes ago, bananahamuck said:
what in the Jesus cabbage farting Christ happened to this country ??
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I've pulled many broken down friends home in much heaver vehicles than my 720, they are tough! As for your tow line, if you want to save it, hit the knots with a hammer and then work on them a bit, repeat. Its an old riggers technique.
Covid-19 Prepared?
in General Discussion
Posted
The mosquitoes are modified to be sterile. That way when they attempt to reproduce they waste their lifecycle with a blank shooting bother. I agree it is risky and even the fucking people releasing them do!