jfbrink

Hi, Does anyone know what the stock spring rate is for the rear leaf springs on the base 411 or SSS sedans? The leaf spring rate calculators I've found on-line give nonsense numbers & don't account for alloy, anyways. Thanks, Jesse.

Hi, I'm pretty sure the track is the same between the standard 411 sedan and the SSS. In any event, the numbers I have for the track on a '66 PL411 are 47.5" F and 47.2" R. This is according to the factory service manual, among other sources. The stock steel wheels are very dished, like a modern FWD car: offset is +40mm. Jesse.

Although this is an ancient question, I thought I would answer it for future searchers, since I happened to measure it today. The offset on stock 411 steel wheels is +45mm. Backspace is 106mm. Jesse.

Hi, I'm converting my Bluebird over to electric power, a process I am funding by off-loading ICE parts I no longer need. Now that I've bought some batteries, I definitely no longer need the gas tank, which is very clean inside & out. It includes the sender (which I have not tested) and the mounting straps/hardware. All for $80. I can deliver / meet within 75 miles of Los Angeles most weekdays or you can come to me. Pics below: Thanks, Jesse.

I'll be there, but without my 411. Maybe next year, if JCCS stays at the Queen Mary. I'm converting the 411 to electric, and probably couldn't make it to OC and back! Jesse.

Pete, It takes some time laying under the appropriate vehicle in the junkyard to generate an engine model. Not much point here as the engine is already in the car & you can solve the problem by staring at it. All the engines I know, except the 3-cylinder Suzuki G10 and Mazda rotaries, require a custom oil pan. And then it's just a matter of fitting between the firewall and radiator; the width is almost always fine. Do you have a custom oil pan on yours? If not, it should do the trick; you can usually trim 2" or more. Although, that won't get you your wiper motor back. Like the R16, you'll need a notched valve cover, too. What do the engine mounts look like on your car? Jesse.

Hi, I built a simple 3D model of my RL411 SSS engine bay and then built some models of some engines I was interested in. The Mazda 1.8L BP with a Mazda Miata A/T: The Mazda KL-DE V6 with a Geo Tracker A/T: The Suzuki G16 with a Geo Tracker A/T: The rake or angle on all of these engines is less than the stock angle. They are positioned such that the output end of the transmission is in the same location as stock. They are also positioned so as to clear the front crossmember without notching. There are issues with all three, which I can go into if anyone is interested, but the conclusion that I reached was that the KL-DE was the best fit, and has the best damn sound. Jesse.

For sale is an A14 and automatic transmission that came along with my Datsun 411. The engine runs, as seen in this video: Engine Video. I have not tested the transmission and so cannot comment on its functionality. Both seem to have come out of a 1975 Datsun B210 in the early 80s. I'm including the handy GM HEI ignition module that will run the electronic distributor without the expensive Nissan black box. Price: $150 Pickup only: West Los Angeles, CA Please feel free to contact me with any questions. Photos are linked in below. Best, Jesse.

I am installing an A14 from a 1975 B-210 into my 1967 411. It's not my first choice, but the engine was free and it will get the car on the road pretty easily while I'm planning the final swap. The main thing in my way right now is that I need a remote oil filter setup to clear the engine mount pads on the 411 front crossmember & I cannot find a kit for the A14 anywhere on-line. Does anyone know of a remote oil filter kit that will work on the A14? Thanks! Jesse.

I got an HEI ignition module from the junkyard yesterday and wired it up this morning. I combined the Datsun specific instructions on this site: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html With the more general HEI instructions on this site (this confirmed my idea of how to power the HEI and that you need to ground the HEI): http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/HEI_Conversion_Wiring_Instructions Okay, so all that said, here is a brief video of the first start-up: Jesse.

I'll give it a try and let everyone know. Jesse.

Hi, I see a lot of discussion of using the HEI module to replace the "black box" on later ('76+) L-series engines, but will it work on an A14 with a stock electronic distributor that's probably from a 1975 B210? Jesse.

Hi, I've just started redoing the dash on my 411. I'm recovering the soft parts with new vinyl. I've disassembled and cleaned the gauge cluster so the gauges look sharp and clear. The dully-grey gauge cluster housing is going to look real out of place when I'm done, though. I was thinking about painting it with black vinyl/upholstery paint, which I've had good luck with in the past. Just wondering if anyone else had tackled this and had any suggestions. My search attempts didn't yield anything relevant. (Except the LED bulb upgrade.) Thanks, Jesse.

A year ago I installed speed bleeders from Summit (the top picture) on my Roadster and it was the best thing I ever did to the car. For the first time in years I had genuinely firm brakes. I was never able to achieve that with a pressure bleeder, suction bleeder or old-fashion foot-and-friend bleeding. Thumbs up! Jesse.

Hi, An A14 engine came loosely fitted in my 411. Since I have it, I'm going to try to get it running and installed. This would be easier, for parts counter clerks and myself, if I knew what Model/Year this engine is specifically from. The engine ID # is A14-708268. The one Internet resource I found indicated that this would have come from a 1975 Datsun B-210. Can anyone confirm or deny this information? Thanks, Jesse.

Hello, I looked around and couldn't see that anyone had done up the PL411 wiring diagram in color, so I traced one over a couple of nights. It is available for (free) download from my website here. Let me know if you notice any errors or have suggestions for improvement. I drew it at 11 x 17, but made sure that everything is legible when scaled for printing at 8.5 x 11. At least, legible to my far-sighted eyes. Best, Jesse. Added for searches: 411 RL411 Bluebird wire electrical

I'm really interested to see how you modified the front crossmember after basically cutting the center out of it, when you get a chance. I'm looking at a V6 swap for my own 411 (at my wife's prodding!) and even with a modified sump, I'd have to cut clean through the crossmember. Jesse.

Mike, I don't actually know if the transmission in my 411 works at all. Both it and the engine weren't even bolted down when I got the car on Sunday. My comment on sluggishness was based on other BW35s I have experienced, on mid-60s Volvos. Granted, they could easily have been poorly maintained, but they sure sapped a car that was much more spirited with a manual. Given that I am starting with a non-original set-up, I am exploring swap options. And, if I am going to swap, I'm going to go for a modern EFI drivetrain, because I don't like carbs. The limited space between firewall and grill, plus the position of the front cross-member is very limiting, since I don't want to cut anything. So far, though, the only option I've found that I can guarantee a fit for (I haven't made it to the salvage yards to measure other options) is a Suzuki G10 3-cylinder engine. With a turbo, it puts out more HP/torque than the R16. And it fits in well and will likely result in a 50/50 weight balance. Still, it will be a buzzy little thing. My dad is pushing for a Mazda 12A rotary. J.

Well, the A-series engine that is in my engine bay does not fit so well. Besides sitting a bit too close to the firewall for my tastes, the sump is way too deep in front and the oil filter will never clear the engine mount, even if I found a lower sump. See pic: I believe that the non-SSS cars would not have the oil filter problem (different engine mounts). I do know that a guy named Doug with a 410 wagon on the Yahoo "Early Datsuns" list has an A-series in his car. It seems to fit level and clean, but there are no pics of the bottom to show how. I measured the Miata engine in my Roadster today and that engine is way too long. Also, the sump would never ever clear the cross member or the steering cross bar. So, it's back to the drawing board. Sourcing an R16 with all the 411 SSS specific goodies seems like a hassle. And, I swore I would never run dual SUs on a car again. I'm also loathe to use the sluggish BW35 transmission, but my wife needs auto. Any thoughts? Jesse.

Hello, I took delivery of my very own 411 SSS on Sunday, for which I paid next to nothing. What does next-to-nothing get a person these days? -No collision damage; -Very little rust; -Almost all the interior and exterior bits and pieces; -An ill-fitting A14 engine (literally) dropped in the engine bay. The engine apparently got in there in an early-80s swap attempt that failed due to the fact that the engine totally doesn't fit in the car. I am deciding whether I will swap in a modern EFI drivetrain as I did with my SPL311 (http://www.too-many-parts.com/rs) or convert the car to electric drive. Here are some pics: Best, Jesse.

Sorry, the tail light question was dumb & I was able to see in about 1 minute on Google that the sheet metal in the back is very different between the '66 and the '67/'68. But, I am still curious to know if there are any mechanical/component differences between the two. Jesse.

Hey, folks, Are there any differences between the '66 and the '67 besides the tail lights? For example, are there actually *any* sheet metal changes or are the tail lights and other cosmetic stuff interchangable? Thanks, Jesse.

Incredible job on these brackets. Anyone with a 411 should probably send you a bit money just for showing the car some love, even if they aren't buying the kit! I don't even own one yet & I'm still jazzed about your work. Anyways, I wonder if it would be helpful to consolidate a shopping list in one place and the few steps involved, too. I've taken a stab at it below. Since these parts are so cheap, it probably doesn't make sense to get them from the JY, but I've included (correct?) interchange information just in case. PARTS -Mike's Marvelous Kit (bracket, spacer, bolts and metric line adapters) -Infiniti G20 calipers and rotors (G20 91-95; Stanza 90-92; 240SX 91-97) -Nissan Hardbody front L/R rubber brake hoses (Hardbody/D21 86.5-97) -Nissan 280z(x) Brake Master cylinder (280z(x) 77-81) -Bolt to fabricate longer M/C pushrod -New steel lines from M/C to block and to front wheels? PROCESS -Turn down OD of 411 hub nose to match ID of G20 rotors -Remove stock 411 bearing spacer using cold chisel, pry bars -Install custom bearing spacer from kit -Test fit brackets and calipers; clearance steering arms if necessary -Install brackets and calipers -Install Hardbody front flexible brake lines -Install 280z(x) master cylinder (may be fitment issues with reservoirs/SUs) -Fab and fit master cylinder pushrod from bolt -Fab new brake hardlines (possible to bend & reflare originals?) -Bleed brakes Jesse.

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone knows off hand what taper the ball joint studs have for the 411 or the Roadster. I imagine they're the same, but maybe not. Jesse.

Ggzilla, That could work great, but does Mitchell go all the way back to the '60s? I can't seem to find any (in LA's libraries or elsewhere) before 1982. Jesse.