Seeker > 620 KC

I totally agree on all points. It certainly goes to show you how times change, but the style is still interesting. You call em jelly beans, I call em turd-mobiles. Ugly! I really enjoyed looking at how the advertising has changed over time too. I'll see if I can spend some time scanning and post some.

Wow! What a score. And so original. I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before. Maybe a local tradition? Farming or construction tradition? I know rear bumpers are not in fashion all the time, but I'd sure keep that if I were you. The last 620 I bought, the PO's daughter was learning to drive, threw it in reverse and it a cinder block wall. The bumper brackets folded up like paper clips. The bumper stayed straight, and the sheet metal was never touched. I saved the bumper and am putting it on my current truck. F.Y.I. At our dealership we always installed the mirrors opposite way. Never knew why. The way yours are mounted are similar to a military patch chevron. Congrats on a great purchase.

I am so sorry if we intimidated you so much you were afraid to respond. That was never our intent. I think we all heard you and your health concern and got excited to help and protect. We're just concerned you don't put a lot of time, money, &/or frustration in it, and in the end aren't satisfied with the results, over pay, etc, etc. My sister had a brand new 69 or 70 510 red wagon during college. Then she got married and had kids. Her aspiring lawyer husband footed the bill to add a below dash AC to it. She was happy with the cool air passing by her, but the kids in the back seat complained because the unit never dropped the cabin temp by much in the Riverside heat, and the blower didn't get any air flow to them. I'd suggest seeking out 510 wagon owners specially that have working AC. Find out who's got the most modern set up, old or new, see how thy like it etc, etc. Gleen all the info & pics you can from their set-ups. I really like your idea of finding a guide friend who can help you with fabrication and AC installation too. And by all means in the mean time, utilize your existing system if it will work better than your Ghetto 5000 ice box blower (is that the name Colour box gave it?) An AC shop that makes custom hosed could test your old hoses individually, &/or vac test the system before charging it, and gambling Freon of any kind. Or have your skilled mentor charge it they are familiar with AC. At a minimum' change out as many seals as you can, and replace the receiver drier. once a receiver/drier is exposed to the air for a day or two they can't do their job any more, and will dramatically prevent the system from cooling. If you attempt to use that York compressor you can gamble and install it as is, or get it checked out on a bench by someone familiar with them. You can still find common seals and bearings for it, I would be really surprised if the front shaft seal is good, the bearings maybe ok. But, remember someone removed some components for some faulty reason. Who would remove working AC on a stock wagon, eh? The compressors were usually removed by owners when the clutch &/or bearing seized up, the bearing went dry and started howling,, or the shaft seal went bad and leaked out all the Freon (dang spell check keeps replacing the word Freon with Fremont! Lol Somewhere in this discussion i think you may have gotten the impression you could use your existing below dash unit and install new internal components? Sorry, I didn't mean to give you that idea if I did, but it doesn't mean it can't be done. I meant there may be a company who might make a modern unit that would either replace your existing below dash unit, or like the Nissan factory 620 condenser have a smaller blower unit hanging under the glove box, and utilize your existing side and center vents. Replacing the internal components in your existing below dash unit would really be ambitious and a challenge to find modern parts that would fit exactly in their place, and in the same plastic housing. Not saying it can't be done, just think it would take even more time and $. It would be easier to install your old switch plate that says Datsun on it. on a new unit... IF the newer unit can still use the use olde style switch. Brainstorming a mod...My thought would be to find a center console with arm rest that could run between the seats to run AC vent hose thru to transport cold air to the rear passengers. Ideally a 2nd evaporator unit to produce cold air would be most efficient, but you'd have to find one to A) fit the space, and B) match the interior without looking too modern. I'll be at Eagle Rock Swap Meet if you attend and want to talk about making the old unit work, modifying it, or replacing it. I'm old and married, don't bite, am not a tech head by any means. Lol Sorry again if we scared you with all the possibilities.

Yes Stoff, that is exactly my point and the reason I outlined the steps briefly. To show how complex it will be to a person unfamiliar with AC and to hopefully motivate Angela to contact a modern/vintage AC tech for guidance first. I bought a pair of modern compressor ear brackets for $40. They will have to be fabricated to a base plate to mount to the engine before a modern compressor can be installed. Fabrication is expensive, and you have to also consider how far forward and back to weld up so the V belt will alight with the drive pulley... not easy. However, that company also makes mount kits for some cars. They did not have one for my 620 truck a v Couple years back, but may now? but I have 79 L20B with a CA smog pump so it can't mount the compressor on the driver side like earlier 620b cars. it will have to go on the pass side. . The L20B motor was used in a lot of diff vehicles and Angela'stated she has a 71 510 which orig had an L motor I believe. If the Vintage AC company has already designed a compressor mount for any L20b motor, she may be able to use that mounting bracket, or alter it to work if she has the clearance. She may have to eliminate her smog pump if she has one on that side, but I've seen it done in a Pick up. That would reduce that 1,200-2,000 figure dramatically that Stoff Is guesstimating. I'm sure he wants to make you aware of the full retail cost of having the pro do it all. I've slowly done all the research and collected all the parts for my 620 this way over a couple of years except the compressor and hoses, and I don't have $200 in it SO FAR. But I take my time, do a lot of research, trade, know AC, and buy wisely and know where to get the parts I've collected cheap. But Stoff is right I will have my bigger expenses when I have to pay someone to weld for me, for the compressor, and for custom hoses at 25-50 per hose and will have the correct system valves, not adapters. His point is, a retail customer knowing nothing about it could pay that much. Kudos to him for making that very important point. My point, do the research first. Lots of it. Think of it like hiring a contractor for your house... get 3 opinions / estimates from vintage AC guys. Tell em you're on a budget and want to do as much as you can to save $ if that is the case. If you're not familiar with auto AC and got the $2k discretionary income to have the pro do it and get it installed quickly, do it. That's what I'd do if I could afford it. It is cumbersome to learn and hard to get right In one's first attempts.

You'll need: a new rotary compressor bracket that will mount in the same place the old one did. A new rotary compressor with the correct oil for the Freon type you choose, input dye in mine with the oil A new receiver/drier with threaded fittings New o-ring seals for the freon type you're going to use. Change every one. New hoses that utilize threaded nut ends with o-ring seals.(not hose barbs like the fittings on top of your compressor) Freon to match above components Rent a flush device from ORileys and flush out the condenser, or simply replace it if is powdery with corrosion Test or replace the pressure switch on the receiver/drier If you are changing Fremont types or not you should remove the inside vehicle below dash AC unit. Also gen a new expansion valve from rock auto and install it with new hose end seals. Re wrap the expansion valve the AC sweat tape Once all is installed draw a vacuum on the system and ensure it holds. If so you can charge the system, you'll need AC gauges, Or let your AC guy do the inside car part, vacuum test, and charging and leak testing. Be sure to keep all points of entry into the system while assembling very clean and dry. I would reccomend consulting your AC guy before purchasing parts. Get recommendations about it first. Once he guides you on what to buy you could reduce his cost by doing the engine bay part yourself if you like engine bay work,

I recently was given 6 boxes of really old hot-rod magzines from the 40's up thru the 70's. In it was a magazine called Sports Car Graphic. The big article was comparing the the 71 Ford Pinto with the Chevy Vega, and the AMC Gremlin. I was about to toss it in the misc pile when I saw the word Datsun on the bottom of that list. Although I'm way to big to own one, I did work on many back in the 70's and I thought you guys would enjoy the article. See how long it takes you find the author's big "oops."

Yes, get a rotary compressor for sure. Their new technology are far more efficient for cooling, take up less engine bay space, put far less load on your engine, are more quiet, and don't have the severe vibration issues the old square York piston type compressors did. And... if putting a chrome compressor in your gently-used engine bay would be like "putting a dress on a pig" (like it would be for my old truck...) They make a standard compressor case that is not chromed/polished and won't stand out as bad, and doesn't cost quite as much in case you don't have an unlimited budget like Charlie's photo example.

Bummer Matt. Will keep my eyes open for you. Did you relocate to SB? Charlie, They get picked over pretty quick in So. Cal and only stay in the yards for 4-6 weeks depending on what's left of them. I'd suggest seeing if someone closer can put eyes on it before you go out of route to it.

Oh the irony! Didn't I pick one up from you at Canby a couple years back and haul it to Ventura CA?

Holy Crap! How long has it been since I checked the listings??? San Bernardino, CA PickAPart, A 1971 Nissan 521 Pickup, white, hit the yard on 6/6. The thing looks nice and straight, and complete. The only noticeable thing is a slightly buckled hood. Don't know why it is there? Oceanside, CA A 1985 720, tan, hit the yard a week ago. It too looks very complete. Pics look really good. Don't know why it is there either??? And... even better news...both yards are having a 40% off sale July 1 thru the 4th! Party on Wayne!

I agree with DGuy on aftermarket engine compartment components working for you. Ideally, they already have an aftermarket compressor bracket and compressor kit that will bolt right in. If your AC hangs below the dash, 90% chance it is aftermarket, but was made to look Datsun orig and fits with dash look and design. Can't blame you for wanting to keep it if it looks good and fits in. Change the 40 year old seals to the new ones (just as you would for synthetic oil to prevent leaks) on the evaporator and spend the time to put in a new expansion valve so you don't have to go back in and do it, and use either freon. Re: "The system is designed for your car." If your evaporator was mfg by Nissan that statement is correct. It was designed by a team of engineers and made specifically for the vehicle with longevity in mind. If your existing unit is an aftermarket unit, that company is already out of business and the system was made in a hurry during a brand new booming AC market for the new "Import line" of little cars. The better aftermarket AC companies put their name on their units ie: ARA, the others did not. I got a tour of their Riverside sales location "back in the day." The aftermarket AC companies were typically in business with the new plastic industry. Plastic was really new and big in the 60's and 70's, it was replacing the old bake-olite stuff. They simply took a very basic standard size evaporator (made by another company,) stamped out a plastic mold that fit the dash and stuffed the evaporator inside and hung it below the dash. They had to do this in order to keep up with the instantaneous demand for AC units for import cars. There was little vehicle application design considered by aftermarket companies for import car AC during the 70's. I worked for a Datsun Dealer during that time installing AC. I saw and installed the complex, highly detailed and highly designed new Nissan units that worked well. I also saw and had to install the inferior crap units the dealers had to order from aftermarket suppliers to keep up with demand when they couldn't get the Nissan units and did not perform as well as the Nissan/Datsun units. New car buyers would not buy new cars if they couldn't get them with AC. Dealer chose to do this by default. They couldn't keep their dealer business open in hot desert cities otherwise. Next time you're wandering thru a junk yard go take apart a below the dash evaporator and see how it's made. Then go find an in-dash unit and take it apart. They are worlds apart in quality and design. Vintage or another new AC mfgr might have a new option for a new unit to fit behind the dash with your existing fresh air vents with no unit hanging below that puts out more volume of cooled air. It is worth researching. The changes in technology are fabulous: from electric to electronic switches relays and such, rotary compressor design, new denser hose seals. This is how I weight up these decisions... If the vehicle is a short term keeper, a beater, or one of many toys and you can change vehicles like shoes when they break down... throw caution to the wind, charge the old unit, see how it works, deal with any issues as they arise, and use it till you sell it. If the vehicle is a long term sentimental keeper, a sole DD, a real long distance driver (not a show toy,) or you want to make efforts to improve vehicle cooling... it's worth further research and caution. Caution does not equal silly. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

"What's the best way to approach this & "do it right"? Any & all help, tips, advice, or website links would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Angela" Yes, sorry Dizzyguy and Angela, we (I) did go a bit too in depth. But she did say she wanted to do it rightt, which I took to mean as dealing with it once. And she did welcome all input. The basic point I was making... don't risk killing a tired 40 year old motor by quickly re-installing AC. Check the cooling system first! I installed AC for a dealer in the 70's and I know most of the under dash AC units were NOT made by Nissan, and were aftermarket USA units sold by dealers as "factory units." Even though the have the raised letters that say "Datsun" on the switchplate. (To check, for yourself...look at the squirrel cage fan and see if it says "Made in Ohio.") Most of these units when working properly were not effective cooling large compartment vehicles like a wagon. It took a long time driving to reduce the interior temp by much at all. Angela stated she didn't recall the unit cooling well when it was installed. This could have been due to a loss of Fremont, or it could have been fully charged. We don't know. The second point I was trying to make is Angela to consult a modern/vintage AC installallation tech before spending a lot of money on the old system...to see if there are newer more effective AC systems made today to better keep her health condition stable. My apologies for being too verbose.

Oops.. In hot So Cal. The prior steps would reduce heat and help the cooling system. Lastly, are you saying a condenser the same size as the rad will not reduce air flow at all to the rad...&/or will reduce heat temp in the rad?

The point I was making is 620's have a small capacity of coolant, and many trucks have two row rads, Add 20-40 years of corrosion, a weak head gasket and uncheckedcooling system parts... I would not risk my motor in that condition by adding a condenser as big as the radiator which could easily reduce the air flow. Nor would I recommend someone else do it with a 100k on a tired motor. If the motor and cooling system were all spanky new I'd be more open to completely blocking off a rad face with a modern condenser. How does turning up the temp on an AC system maintain cooling??? If the engine begins to run hot after turning on the AC you can turn on the heater to route hot coolant thru the heater core for more heat dissipation than the rad and fan are doing, and/or you can turn off the AC compressor to reduce engine load, but turning up the temp on an orig 620 AC that leaves the compressor turning ... does nothing to help the cooling system. The compressor either is on or off, and rarely cycles off for long in hot

I like Stoff's take on the problem, although I don't know if I agree with the ultra micro format, or the need to use the largest condenser. My 620 doesn't have a very big hole for the radiator alone, if you completely cover the opening with condenser...it's kinda counter productive to an already micro cooling system. I'm sure he must be brainstorming some new approach. The problem with simply installing 134a in an old R12 system is the smaller molecule gas leaks past the old seals if the seals aren't swapped out beforehand. Against my own advice I am going to gamble on Dizzyguy's advice on my 200sx. Already went thru the cooling system, brakes, and suspension. My 200SX only had 76k miles on it, owned by an old couple and was always garaged. AC hoses look ok as does the evaporator. I bought a kit of the newer o-ring seals from Rock Auto and swapped them all out on my SX. Found a resealed compressor online from Four Seasons, Have a new expansion valve, and a new drier. Have most of it installed and filled the compressor with the black light dye. Just haven't had the health to finish it off. Need to install the compressor, then draw a vacuum (still have a pump from my installer days) to see if the system has a leak BEFORE wasting any of the 6 cans of R-12 I found in a dumpster. Someone threw them out??? WOO HOO! If the vacuum draw down holds, then and only then will I shoot any Freon into the system and check for leaks with the glasses and black light. I will double check it with a Freon sniffer machine from "back in the day" that still works. For my 620 I'll be taking the "flat head" motor approach from Stoff's photo. I'll be installing a new compressor and fabbed mount, new hoses, and a new drier and condenser. As long as the flat-head guy's head gasket and cooling system hold up, he'll be good. The reason I adivse to check the health of the cooling system before AC...I don't like surprise break downs, diving from the fast lane in heavy traffic to get to the slow side of the freeway, missed events, taking time off from work to service/tow a vehicle, rebuilding motors before their time, or paying AAA out of pocket when I've used up my freebies. I'm returning my datto to a dependable long range fun time driver, what it was designed for. That's why I service the suspension and fluid systems, maintain brakes, and keep my wipers :thumbup:

Oh! And a big WARNING before you get all excited to install AC in your tired, decades old Datsun... Please don't add AC to a tired Datto with a weak cooling system and kill your engine. That would break my heart :( Be sure you have GOOD ENGINE COMPRESSION and an EXCELLENT COOLING SYSTEM. These tiny little cars barely had 4-5 quarts of coolant in them. Adding AC to one in the 70's utilizing a big vibration pounding York compressor really overburdened them when they were new. Now there are more efficient cooling rotary compressors that don't load up the engine as bad. Before adding AC be sure every part of your engine cooling system is in 100% good working condition. AC killed more Datsun engines in the 70's and 80's due to running AC all the time, at stop lights, in traffic, pulling grades and such with poorly maintained cooling systems. If you have good compression (and hopefully a good head gasket?) ensure the following: New fan clutch water pump or stellar operating elect fan system and sending unit A correct multi-blade fan Radiator fan shroud A clean pressure-tested radiator Clean pressure-tested heater core (you'll need all the coolant you can get in your little cooling system) Clean and good operating heater control valve A flushed and back flushed cooling system with the thermostat removed A new or excellent condition thermostat New Heater hoses and non-eroded fittings Ensure all coolant carrying small coolant hoses are new or in fantastic shape. Don't risk an old hose! New upper and lower radiator hoses. If they have oil on them or they are swollen... toss em out. A new or excellent condition radiator cap I highly reccommend replacing all the the freeze plugs, I've rarely seen a good condition steel freeze plug after 40 years. New coolant. If you have a new motor, just ensure you did all the above and you're good to go! Stay cool in your new AC, or travel early AM and Eves like I currently have to without AC

The evaporator is the part inside the car with the blower fan and expansion valve. The condenser is the part in front of the radiator and rad fan. There are still AC guys in CA who can sell and recharge R12, and it is legal, it just takes special training and certs. Most AC techs don't want to deal with R12 as the gas is costly, they don't want to spend the time on the old style training, certs, and maintaining the old equipment. Nor do they want to spend the time on old grungy vehicles But there are specialty guys/ hungry guys out out there. Tip: Ask the guys who have WORKING AC in the really pretty completed pristine cars at car meets. Unfortunately, AC guys are specialists like plumbers and good ones are always busy. It is now a really hot, these guys are in prime season, and their time is in demand and not cheap right now. The time to find a patient tech who has/might take the time to help you firgure out an old vehicle application, on a budget like me.. is when business is slower and possibly more affordable... winter or fall. Your're dealing with a 30-50 year old system and the AC system has traditionally always been technical, often tricky, and expensive. You don't want to risk installing your hard to find expensive R12 on old "original" hoses, seals, driers, leaky condnesers, etc. Do it once. (For AC I like to think "measure twice, cut once." or research a lot, do it once.) Once you've sourced the main evaporator component and have fitted it for inside the car (it will have to be removed again, but you'll want to be sure where it goes first and route everything around it) , go consult your trusted vintage AC installer, have him look at it, test it, etc.Or go there before finding an evaporator. He/she can advise you if there are newer/ more effecient evaporators compressors and installation brackets, condensers, freons, and driers are available. Use new new hoses, custom ones are absolutely great as long as they are crimped and tested, and don't use barbed fittings with hose clamps. Those have always been problematic and leak sooner or later. Use new seals. The o-rings for the newer gasses seal better than the old neoprene because they are denser rubber and the newer gasses have smaller molecules. I come from the Datsun dealer automotive AC world in the 70's and have watched the AC business over the years. I have two old Datsuns and live in HOT So Cal, and both vehicles have small cabin space. The more modern 80 200sx I'm going to try and salvage the old system with new seals, resealed Hitachi compressor, new drier, and new condenser and use the orig R12. For the 79 620 I want to fab a new compressor bracket and use the new rotary compressor and new freon. For a small pickup cab or larger hatchback the cabin space is small and either gas will work well for cooling it. The system will cool the pickup easier than the larger hatchback with more windows. An AC unit will work much harder to cool a larger space like a wagon with more cabin space and hot window surfaces. Most modern SUV's (station wagons) need a back evaporator unit to cool the back end of the vehicle. If I had health issues and need AC to help control my symptoms, and I had a wagon I would want to consult a current AC professional to see what new applications works more effectively and long term today, in order to cool my larger vehicle space before spending a lot of money on old parts, old technology, gambling and guessing and spending 2 or 3 times the money on building a system with trial and error. At my age and health I know budget, time, $ and mechanical ability all play into how to resolve these issues, especially if time is a factor. I've learned sometimes spending some money with a real pro is the more expedient way to a quicker resolution. What city in CA are you in Angela? I think Robert who runs the IE meet used a guy in Chino or near there for R12. For the most part he was happy with the guys ability. he just didn't like the way he routed a custom hose or two.

I've done this to my 79, there were no screws holding the top of the deluxe door panel. They use the same slotted holes to attach as the inner wiper does when used with the standard door panel. I just stripped a 76, they have the same slotted holes as the 79.

I'm not sure who organizes this event. If you need someone to do T-shirts Scgreen620 does T-shirts and sells them at ER. PM him if interested. It might take some of the organizational burden off ya?

Wow! Nice flyer Jose!

Had to shuffle some stuff around in my truck. Now that I'm in the PAC No West where I have sunshine... The black mats I have may actually be blue!

I have a sister in law in Tucson, and my wife is there right now. But I don't know how soon I could get it there if he can meet me there. Or...I could take it to him at the BBQ in Fontana if he isn't in a hurry for it.I think that is Aug 12th

I'm actually in Canyonville at the Seven Feathers Casino tonight. Checking out in AM, Relocating to Wilsonville

After unloading parts to repair DD before trip I still had no time for pics or prices, Sorry. Just arrived in Grants Pass after driving all day, really wish it could have been in my 200SX... someday! need to go get food and crash. Not sure if I have tech skills to do remotely in AM, will see.

I just arrived at Grants Pass. From San Diego to Corning... pure gloom. From Redding to Grants Pass big broken up clouds and scattered sunshine, gorgeous dramatic skies! A few drizzles and sprinkles along the way, but nothing you could call real rain. I'm really glad I didn't talk myself out of it.