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I was looking at the tiny GT12 / GT1241 but not sure my math is any better than yours. I'll eagerly await your progress. Best of luck.

I wanted the option of hooking stuff up, reduction in intake noise, and a more stock look. When I first did it, the idea of being stealth enough to get by smog was not lost on me. 🙂

I like the old Bendex-type pumps. Low pressure, built-in fuel filter, usually US-made, and flight-rated. I've manged to score some off Ebay on the cheap. I see some now for under $30.

I know I should make a nice inner plate and a bridge over it to hold the cover, but I just didn't have the time but still wanted to get rid of the Webber air cleaner. You have to pound the center pretty flat and dish it down a little to get the air cleaner high enough to clear the top of the fuel bowl. It worked pretty well, I decided to try to get it a little flatter so broke out the stud-gun to reduce the warping but that's not necessary to make it work at all. So, I'm not proud of it, but it works:

How is your throttle-body? When these get worn the shaft gets sloppy in the bore and it's hard to get a really good steady idle out of it. Last I checked these folks had them at really great prices: https://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/1200.htm Setting the timing of the accelerator pump is a little fussy to get just right on these carbs, pay special attention to the linkage and the pre-travel above the plunger. You'll know it when you get it right since it won't bog on rapid acceleration. Oh, and of course remember to make note of which jet goes where, yada-yada.

It's good to hear they will go some distance and handle OK. Gives one some hope. It does seem like cheaper tires suffer from UV damage worse than at least old quality tires. Makes one wonder what that's about. 12" tires are hard, but actually I've been finding that it seems comparatively easy after shopping for tyres for my Ferret. The ones on it are likely from 1980 or perhaps well before... I like to think of it as the Datsun 210 of armored vehicles. 🙂

OK, good to have some options on the Mini site. None of the are the right diameter for stock but it's something. I've been running 12s in front and 13s in back for the mini-musclecar look and to pick up a few MPH on the freeway and have been really happy with that arrangement overall butstill would like to find some actual quality 155/80r12 or 165/70R12. I notice MiniMania does sell the Nankang 165/70 but at just under 2x the price of getting them off Eaby. 😞

The shop near me says it would be about $70 per hose to make them up custom. Er, ouch.

I'm unimpressed by the flow from that fuel pump from the video. I'd want to check it for flow and pressure against the manual, or at least T in a pressure gauge and see that it maintains a few PSI. Could be a flat lobe on the cam, could be leaky return springs, or it could be just fine. Easy thing to do is put an electric fuel pump in the line as a test. If it runs better or the same, you know something about the state of your fuel system. Also worth checking the fuel level thru the window in the side of your Hitachi carb. That said, I'm sure servicing your carburetor would be worthwhile, particularity if the car sat for a while as the accelerator pump cups tend to dry out and get loose. Be aware the linkage for the accelerator pump has to be set just so to get the timing right, so if you wind up with flat spots in your acceleration that's not a bad place to look.

Indeed, replace the soft lines under the hood, if they haven't failed yet, they will soon. I've also seen a number of bad pumps myself. Throw a cheap electric fuel pump in the line in place of the mechanical one, if it runs well then you have your answer! I won't say I haven't had to dump the crud out of a carburetor from time to time, but on the Datsuns I've wasted more time doing that when I should have been looking elsewhere. It isn't a bad idea to back-flush your main fuel line with some compressed-air, just don't go crazy with the line pressure, I just tried to unblock some fuel lines on a Ferret scout car and damaged the tank through overpressure. 😞

Pics of 210s, I suppose I can help with that. Here's a few I owned. The white one was too nice to paint but too white for my taste so has moved on and I'm working to combine the green and silver ones.

Be aware that it's common for the rubber parts at the top of the tank to to fail from age or handling when you remove/replace the tank. So if they don't leak now you are risking their integrity by touching them. In my case since I own a number of vehicles it's not uncommon for them to sit a week between drives. Rather than having to crank the motor long enough to get the fuel pump to fill the carburetor I'm prone to go with the inline electric pump and delete the mechanical one. Speaking of weight savings, my radiator when I bought the car was 10.6lbs and didn't cool things well. I flushed it out and even rodded out the center section near the radiator cab, only to decide I wasn't going to feel good about it's state. The new Worley that replaced it was just 6.7lbs. Saving 4 lbs up front for not much over $100 is pretty nice, as is reducing the amount of copper in the cooling system for a car with an aluminum cylinder head. I wish I could find an aluminum heater core as well.

I'm running 12" in front and 13" in back. It was intended to be temporary but it's really grown on me. Finding decent quality 12" tires is a challenge though. At least in 13" you have some more options. Funny thing though, now that I'm used to the "big" tires in back, setting a factory 12" in there makes it look like a donut spare. Replaced front quarter vent seals, finished modifying B210 rails for front seats and had the seats reupholstered. New 175s in front (I want to go back to 155). Bought a replacement R. fender and working on getting paint on it. Thinned the lens in front of the hi-beam bulb to compensate for it's darkening over the years.

The whistling coming from my front vent windows was driving me crazy so I dug around for replacements. I checked all the regular places and then a fellow 1200 fan turned me on to these: https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun-1200-cpe-rh-frnt-vent-seal.html It took a minute to get them shipped internationally and cost a couple bucks, but it was well worth it for how much better the car looks and how much quieter it is. Tearing the door all the way down was a pain and digging out the old seals also took time. The new ones went in pretty easily overall. On the whole I think they are a nice part, they seemed to not have very good overlap on the top half of the glass though. I strongly suspect it is due to the lower window pivot having receded into the frame over time and under spring pressure. When I get to it I'll pull that back apart and see if I can shim it up a bit. I will say that having done one, I realized one *could* do the swap without pulling the door all apart. Just remove the two nuts, washer, spring, and limit from the lower pivot and go for it. I also decided not to try on the other side because it's hard enough to dig the old rubber out and get the nuts off the pivot shaft I decided it was safer to take the extra time than risk screwing something up or hurting myself. Now that the seals are new and nuts have moved this century, I think I will try to take it apart to do the aforementioned shimming without stripping the door.

The colour may be partly additive and partly lead residue, when did you folks quit running leaded petrol? In any case, you can safely let it settle and add a litre or so per fill-up to dispose of it with no ill effects. Hoses are likely slowly disintegrating so you'll be changing filters often for a a while. I've had enough fuel pumps had diaphragm failures after sitting for long periods that I usually change them out since failure means petrol thinning the engine oil. Weight is your best asset with this car, if you ditch that battery and either run a small LFP battery like so: https://www.aerovoltz.net/aerovoltz-ai-series-480-cca-experimental-intelligent-lithium-battery/ Or at least a wetted mat battery something like: http://www.directcycleparts.com/electrical-ignition-batteries-odyssey-odyssey-high-performance-deep-cycle-battery-pc680-p-270.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4bfj3cuV6gIVMD6tBh1zpQd0EAQYBiABEgJxLvD_BwE In one car just chopping off the cable ends and shortening the cables offset completely the weight of the slightly earlier generation A.V. battery so it was as if I'd removed the battery weight completely! Both of these examples are more than adequate to crank an A-series motor and will save you 12+Kg over stock in a really bad location to be carrying weight in the car. That might seem like a small amount of weight, but you'll feel nearly every Kg. That paint is in remarkably decent shape, Makes me wonder what one of those shops that do "paintless dent repair" would be able to do for you. Actually, given the thin metal involved, just pressing firmly on the back side is likely to remove of lessen several of those dents! While you have the door cards off, make sure to vacuum out the bottom of the door. The rubber pad they put on as noise dampening has a habit of disintegrating and falling down where it can block the door drains. Also make sure to clean the area down low at the back of the front fenders, as that has a habit of catching dirt and promoting rust which you likely have to a greater or lesser degree.

1200 with an automatic... 0-60 in 19 seconds. I live somewhere with some short freeway ramps, with a large vehicle bearing down on you that can be some of the longest 19 seconds of your life. I swapped my A1s for an A14 and while the gains were quite substantial, fussing with the crossmember, motor mounts, etc. were a lot of work. I sort of wish I had put the time and effort into installing a turbo on the A12 instead. The A-14 crossmembers and other bits were never available in the USA, so I had to do fabrication to make it work. You might have an easier time of it since the B110 was a longer running product where you are and also the clearances aren't as tight on a RHD car.

Congratulations! They really are fun little cars. It's way easier in your part of the world, lots of reproduction parts available.

I don't, but I have found that I can buy one off ABE or a popular online auction site for around $20. I've found it well worth it for the lovely schematics that fold out to a usable size and with the paper book your screen never times-out. 🙂 OK, just over $20 at present. Totally worth it though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Datsun-Model-210-Series-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-Model-B310-Series/332506628759?hash=item4d6af08297:g:IGUAAOSwWLBaPWWt https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Datsun-210-Factory-Service-Manual/303552010000?hash=item46ad1c1710:g:uVgAAOSwqNdepraw

I did pillage a 4-door for various bits and it all fit but I guess it may be that I grabbed only the roll-up glass from the back door and had that fit, good to know.

The 4-door and the wagon have the same doors and glass.

Differential out of a 210, works fine but leaking some oil. I'd love to replace it but I'm concerned about affecting the crush-sleeve in the differential as well as the force to re-torque the pinion nut. Is this a concern or should I not worry? I can apply the force to the nuteasily enough, but what is the approved way to prevent both wheels from turning?

I used to commute up and down eighteen miles of a road on a mountain that was originally built for horses, so somewhat even grade but with some hundreds of turns. I drove it pretty hard with a somewhat modded engine but pretty stock suspension apart from lowering things a bit and changing to wider tires. I found the rear brakes and axle very capable of doing what needed to be done but the front suspension was what couldn't keep up. The light weight of that car is your biggest asset, it means you can change direction without your inertia pulling you all over the place. Every ounce you add to the car you are giving up that best asset so I'd suggest you concentrate on things that really are worth it. If you really feel you must have disc brakes in the back, check over on the 1200 forum since it's very nearly the same axle and Doug has been working hard on a bolt-on kit to run disc brakes on the 1200 so it might need little or no modification to work with the 210. I think he said it was going to cost him about 5lbs per side, which is a lot for these cars but might be lighter than the alternatives.

check also for rust in the rocker panels below the back of the front door and behind the license plate. The 5-speed is a huge plus but be aware that changing from an automatic to manual is a big job because the transmission tunnel is rather different. Hoods get beat up, opened too far and it bends the support structure in ways that are hard to fix. The cowl vent scoops are usually cooked and broken but reproductions are available. The dash pad is usually toast and there are no replacements to be had. The seals are easy to get, might cost you $1200 or so for a full set though. The running gear is all indestructible for it's intended use and wear items (seals, bearings,hoses,etc.) are all easily had.

You don't need an ignition lock assembly, but indeed for under $20 you might as well throw a new switch assembly on the back and see if this fixes things.

Where did you get the door card backing material? Mine are disintegrating badly.