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Lachlan

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About Lachlan

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Coast, Australia
  • Cars
    1972 Datsun 1200 4-door sedan with auto in Kalahari Tan
  • Interests
    Mechanical, musical & relational things.

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119 profile views
  1. What ... have ... I ... done? 😶 The carb internals are surprisingly clean. I can see through all the jets except the primary & secondary slow jets (they aren't a straight through design). The throttle pump looked a little corroded, but again nothing that was indicate a clear fault. The needle seems to function fine, but I've got another on order as I notice there was never any fuel in the bowl when I managed to get the car running. Other than that, I'm guessing vacuum leaks might be part of the problem? @pdp8 you're probably on the money regarding fuel pressure. I have no idea why it wouldn't be at full power after installing a new fuel pump that is identical to the factory part. Maybe there's more detritus in the tank? I've got this kit inbound: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HITACHI-2-BARREL-DCG306-CARBURETOR-KIT-FITS-1970-1981-NISSAN-HONDA-MAZDA/401792402236?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I've been recording short clips as I remove parts, so I'll try and compile this into a long form video for future carb rebuilds. Stay tuned.
  2. i just started it then to see how it would run today. It took a little longer to start (5 seconds), but still started up fine. There was a little bit of white / light grey smoke coming out the tailpipe, but no black smoke. It ran for about 60 seconds and then died. I didn't try to start it again as I didn't want to hammer the battery (again). I realise now I should have grabbed another video, but I think @Draker and @slowlearner are both on the money regarding the carb. The research begins!
  3. Thanks again to your help, and that of @slowlearner, Doris (as the car is now known as) moved under her own power for the first time in many years. I finally pulled my thumb out and tested whether there was adequate fuel pressure at the carb. I don't know why I didn't do this earlier. Here are the results. The car will start without any help, will run for a while especially with the manual choke pulled out, but once it returns to a normal idle it cuts out. I can't figure it out ... yet. This went on all afternoon without resolution. I did manage to get the car to move up our driveway, but she soon conked out and I had to roll it back down. No pedal brake, just the handbrake. Sketchy as. The adventure continues.
  4. I've made an educated guess that the hard lines are clear. As far as I can tell, the lines were always connected, even while the car sat for over 10 years. I also don't have access to a compressor. That's a future purchase! Upon closer inspection, I did discover that many of the soft lines had perished, so they've been replaced. I wasn't 100% certain the old pump wasn't working, but I replaced it as a preventative measure as I definitely do not want to be stranded. Like you mention, I've read everywhere that the diaphragms in these deteriorate if the car isn't used. Sadly, I think you've nailed it. I've never rebuilt a carb, so this is scary new territory. In fact, there are very few car things I have actually done, so this car is a steep (but fun) learning curve. Thanks for the tip! I'll give this a go if I can get access to a compressor, but for now I'll just have to hope it's ok. I do have a fluid pump (shown in a post above) that I can pump air through, so I might give this a go. Any tips? I read below that datsunfreak mentions going from the tank forward. How would you do that? Do you put the hose into the fuel filler and seal the opening with tape so the pressure can build? Thanks also for this tip. Yes, I found the drain plug under the tank which was very helpful with the flush.
  5. Thanks for this pdp8. I heeded your advice and left the tank in place and simply flushed it out a couple times. Seemed to do the trick. The car won't stay running without some intervention. I am unsure whether: - The hard fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay are free flowing or blocked, - The fuel lines are perished and letting air into the system and prohibiting a vacuum, - The fuel pump is not working properly. That said, I can get it running and idling nicely with some very dodgy fuel-can-and-siphon techniques. But this just proves the engine runs (which is GREAT!) but doesn't help diagnose any of the above issues. There was fuel dripping out some of the lines, so that might indicate new fuel lines are needed. Here's a really short clip of it running.
  6. Thanks Morrisun. This was really helpful. I found the fuel pump and have posted pictures below. Nikki Fuel Pump - five screws in the top
  7. With only a couple hours available this morning, I set about creating a plan from here on out. The Cardboard Method I shamelessly stole picked this up from fellow Ratsun member @slowlearner. I keep it in the car to remind me what needs to be done and where I get up to each time. Care Package I love when parts arrive. Here's the first of many parts to go in. Clockwise from top: - Brake shoes (rear) - Air filter - Anti-seize (general use) - Air filter - Spark plugs - Fuel filter - Oil filter Charging Up Any excuse to use the battery charger. It's been about a month since the last charge. Until this is being regularly used, I'll keep giving it a top up. Unfortunately I can't keep it connected all the time on trickle charge as the carport is all exposed to the elements. Guilty. I love this thing. I've used it about six or seven times in the half year I've owned it. Fuel Tank Plenty left to do. I need a few hours uninterrupted to disconnect, remove, clean and refit the tank. I'd like to know the fuel supply is clean and uncontaminated so I can eliminate it as a source of problems both now and in the future. Reliability is high on my list of priorities with cars. Fuel Pump? I didn't think there was a fuel pump in the fuel tank, but I guess there is. Can anyone confirm? Are these a common fail item?
  8. That sounds easier than what I've been planning to do. I was just out looking at the tank trying to work out what's involved in removing it from the car so it can be cleaned thoroughly. I'll see where to install a post-tank filter when I get better access to it. I've bought a new pre-pump filter to replace the old one. Leaded petrol was phased out in January 2002. I had to look that up. I thought it was in the early 90s, but turns out it was later on. I'll probably add the fuel to the lawn mower and get through it eventually. Did you rebuild or replace the fuel pump when the diaphragm failed? It's currently got a 'Nikki' brand installed and I'm unsure if this can be rebuilt. Great info on weight saving and batteries - thanks. I'll keep this in mind as I drive this car. I wouldn't be surprised if the battery doesn't last too long, given it's been sitting for some time. I'll give the 'gentle pressing out from the inside' technique a go when I get to beautifying the car. And thanks for the heads up about vacuuming the door bottoms and fender cavities. I noticed there's some dust and junk that's collected in the rear fender cavities. The whole car needs a solid vacuum.
  9. I came across 32Builds on YouTube last night and thought it was worth sharing. Michael is based in Sydney, Australia and is currently restoring a 1976 Datsun 1200 Ute. He's made some great progress and uploads about once a month. Here's the playlist: Datsun 1200 Build Note: I have absolutely no connection with the channel or it's owner. Lachlan
  10. Here's what I got up to over the weekend. Battery I removed the battery for charging. It's in good shape and will start the car. This is preventative maintenance for peace of mind. Fuel I drained the old fuel from the tank. It had been in there for over a decade. I had no idea what to expect having never done this on any vehicle before. Armed with my special service tool, I got to work. Sparkling clean! I can't recommend this Amazon fluid pump highly enough. I've used it for five fluid jobs across other vehicles already. Hat tip to ChrisFix (YouTube) for this idea. In position ready to start pumping. Once you get a flow of liquid going, it siphons out itself. I know there are simpler ways of achieving this, but the real gem of this is it works in reverse and pumps fluid upwards too. If I were to do this again, I'd use a technique I picked up off Ratchets And Wrenches (YouTube) and lightly clamp the drain hose to the drip tray with a loosely closed vise grips / vice grips / locking pliers so the hose doesn't pop out and spray fuel over everything. Now we're underway. This is after about 3 minutes of draining. At first I was really surprised by the red colour. slowlearner thought it was transmission fluid when I sent him a photo. I can't blame him. It had an acrid, pervasive smell, very similar to what I remember varnish to smell like. While we were driving in the car later that night, my wife casually asked if it was the valve saver fluid (lead replacement additive) that contributed to the excessively red colour. I was speechless for a few seconds while I thought about it and realised she was probably spot on. The age of the fuel would have a lot to do with it too. A full bottle for your viewing pleasure. It's in an old mineral turps bottle, so there's a few paint marks on the outside. I was unsure how fuel would react to the thin plastic in milk bottles, so I emptied waste oil out of some thicker oil bottles and put the fuel in there. When I removed the intake hose, there was this rubbish on there. I think it's the rubber perishing on the hose that connects the filler to the tank. What do you think? Number Plates / Tags I removed the old plates as they are no longer current. Wheels Thanks to slowlearner, this little gem will be wearing new shoes shortly. Here's a sample of what's to come. A productive weekend.
  11. Great to hear! I love what it stands for. Especially when contrasted with the diesel Ram that was also featured.
  12. Bit late to the party, but I watched this episode today. It was great to see a little Datsun featured alongside another Japanese classic. Shame about the outcome. I really felt for the Mazda owner, particularly when he said, "Why does this keep happening to me?" Heavy. The show is ... not the best. The drivers featured are somewhat one dimensional and cringeworthy. Even so, I still enjoy watching it in a limited capacity.
  13. The badge has 'Nissan Full Auto Matic' on it. Thanks for the info on the auto transmissions! I'll keep a look out for any markings that might help identify it. Stellar find! Do you still have it? I've always loved the boxy look of the 510 / 1600s. A couple guys in high school had them, and they were getting old even back then. The dog's name is Fudge and he's a brick with legs attached. Not the sharpest tool in the shed, but he's a loveable dude. I've got another one too called Penny who I'll show in future photos. They both love a good car ride! Yeah, you got it! We're not connected to town water, so we catch the rainwater from the roof in the tank. Do you have a similar setup? Thanks! I read your posts about your '72 sedan with an auto. Looks nice! Thanks for all your help with this Pete! You'll make a Datsun nut out of me yet. Lachlan
  14. I recently purchased a barn stored 1972 Datsun 1200 sedan off a farm here in Australia. Here are some photos before I start making any changes. Keep in mind I'm very new to these cars, so I may get a few things wrong. Exterior There are minor dents on the left hand side and rear. Rust is minimal from what I can access. A few dents particularly in the doors. Nothing too significant. Left hand side tail lights bezel is cracked and missing from a previous impact. Rear bumper looks to be a bit out of shape too. Interior The front seats were replaced by the previous owner. I will be sourcing original seats as these ones have you sitting very high and touching the headlining. 11970 miles. Not sure how many times it's been around the clock. 3 speed automatic. I'll get it running and see how it drives around town. I hear 5 speed manual conversions are popular with these models. Original back seats. The support is non-existent and might need reupholstering. The old fuel will be drained and the tank cleaned before filling with fresh fuel and stabiliser. Engine Complete and original from what I can see. The engine turns over and starts, but won't stay running. It could be as simple as bad fuel and me not realising these cars had a manual choke. Single carburetor setup. Underneath The exhaust system needs some attention. That doesn't quite look right. I think my dog likes it. More to come. Lachlan
  15. Lachlan

    1200 Buyers Guide

    After negotiating a fair price, I purchased and collected the 1200 this weekend. Thank you again for the above info and advice. Here's the build thread: Lachlan
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