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taillight issues.


N0RCALDIME

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when i first wired everything the taillights worked fine.

down the road they stopped working and i found the whole wire from the switch to the trunk was fried out of its rubber coating. so i ran a new wire worked fine for a couple days, then my brake lights stopped working (they always worked) and now neither come on with the switch.

sooo tired of messing with this bs so either i need to rewire everything to a new switch (which would be stupid). or take it to an electrical shop and have them do it (ehh $$ is sorta tight).

 

i just dont know what to do and am looking for some help because i really dont know/ have no tolerance for wiring.

anyone in the area or close that can help with this?

thanks.

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Lemme get this right...the entire length of wire from switch to lamp got hot enough to melt the insulation off it? sounds like its grounding out somewhere or maybe the wrong lamp and its pullin more power than your wire can handle and is therefor overheating.

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I'm assuming this wiring of yours was run through a fuse? Re-wire with thicker gauge. The smaller wire's internal resistance was enough to heat it up. A toaster gets hot but doesn't blow fuses, right? You are going to have to wire it anyway....

 

OK upon re-reading carefully I see I got this very wrong.

Edited by datzenmike
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sounds like a ground, or the turn signal switch. id check all the contacts and sand em....

 

If the ground were bad all the lights that use that ground would not work.

 

 

 

1/ TRY the horn....(horn and brake lights on same fuse) if it works then power from the fuse is OK. If NO HORN check fuse box.

 

2/ Check brake pedal switch, does the plunger come out when pedal is down or is it stuck?? If stuck fix or replace it.

 

3/ If plunger works and switch seems OK pull the plug off and short the two Green/Yellow wires together with a jumper.... rear brake lights should come ON.

 

3a/ If They do come ON, switch is bad... replace.

3b/ If they DON'T come ON, there is a wiring problem between there and the tail lights.

Edited by datzenmike
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Honk the horn! The horn and brake light are on the same fuse.... it the horn works then the brake light switch will have power as well.

 

 

If the ground were bad all the lights that use that ground would not work.

 

 

 

1/ TRY the horn....(horn and brake lights on same fuse) if it works then power from the fuse is OK. If NO HORN check fuse box.

 

NOW:

2/ Check brake pedal switch, does the plunger come out when pedal is down or is it stuck?? If stuck fix or replace it.

 

NEXT:

3/ If plunger works and switch seems OK pull the plug off and short the two Green/Yellow wires together with a jumper.... rear brake lights should come ON.

 

BRAKE LIGHTS YES OR NO???

3a/ If They do come ON, switch is bad... replace.

3b/ If they DON'T come ON, there is a wiring problem between there and the tail lights.

Edited by datzenmike
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Have you ever used a OHM meter? Or volt meter?

 

you can try this.

get a pc of wire with both end exposed and wrap it around the switch under the pedal. The 2 contacks. If your brakes lights are ON constant after that then your switch is BAD.

 

your just shorteing out the switch manually.

 

 

or you can use a test light.

Ground one end. usaully the alligator clip. Then put the pointy end on the switch contack. If it lights up you have 12volt s the switch. the other end should have nothing untill you push the pedal to activate the switch. then youl have 12volts on both contacks. If yes then switch is OK and the proplem is elsewhere.

 

 

Think of it as a Cig lighter.

There is a wire in back of the cig lighter with 12volts on there all the time.

Just when you push it IN then it grounds out completeing the cirecut.

 

the brake lights will be the same.

 

 

 

Thats a nice car dont give up on it yet.!!!!!!!!!

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be honest once you figure it out the wiring is simple on these datsuns.

 

Most proplems are just corrossion or just wear. IF NOT SOMBODYS HACK JOB!!!!

 

If you use a test light and dont have 12volts to one of the contacks to the switch under the pedal then go up to fuse box area. Sometime just removing a connector then putting it back on will fix it.

 

also doubel ck the fuses. They can breakinsid eon theends but look good.

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im still confused on how to ohm out the switch.

 

w/an OHM meter the ohms should be ~0 when the contacts are closed (pedal pushed) and infinite when open (pedal up)

an audible continuity meter is nice!

 

check the spade connections on the box.

consider douching the box before going further...

 

a melted wire results from a (bad) ground and direct power applied to it. :eek:

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