Stupid wing windows....

[Madness]

Im on the hunt for a decent set of wing window seals for a 521. Any tips....

I've asked many different weatherstripping and trim companies, made countless phone calls gone to 2 swap meets.

 

Usually the conversation goes:

 

"I'm looking for wing window seals"

Company "No Problem, What year?"

"1971"

Company "OK, make"

"ugh.... Datsun"

Company "ohhh..... um... yeah, I cant help you. Anything else?"

"No, that will be it. Thanks"

Company "Good Luck!"

 

But the seals for a 620 are still being made. How close are they. Can I trim and glue to make them fit?

 

I'm at the end of my rope. Im about to silicone the F***ers in. :mad:

 

Thanks, Bart.

[sdsurf]

Im on the hunt for a decent set of wing window seals for a 521. Any tips....

I've asked many different weatherstripping and trim companies, made countless phone calls gone to 2 swap meets.

 

Usually the conversation goes:

 

"I'm looking for wing window seals"

Company "No Problem, What year?"

"1971"

Company "OK, make"

"ugh.... Datsun"

Company "ohhh..... um... yeah, I cant help you. Anything else?"

"No, that will be it. Thanks"

Company "Good Luck!"

 

But the seals for a 620 are still being made. How close are they. Can I trim and glue to make them fit?

 

I'm at the end of my rope. Im about to silicone the F***ers in. :mad:

 

Thanks, Bart.

 

20 yrs ago I got some over the counter at a nissan dealer. Might try calling around and see if they have some in a back room...

[datzenmike]

I have these pt numbers and suggested retail $24.11 ea.

 

80241 B3000 right

80242 B3000 left

 

Have a dealer look then up. He might also be able to access other dealers who might have them on a back shelf. Puerto Rico got wing windows for the 620, the numbers don't match but here they are:

 

80382 B5100 right

80283 B5100 left

[MikeRL411]

The 80241-B3000 and 80242-B3000 are also correct for 410 and 411 sedans. If the cross check list bombs out on 510, try corellation with the 410 or 411, but I think cross checking on the 521 is more likely. The last time I took my 411 to the dealer he keyed in "411" and informed me I had a "Volkswagen Variant", not a Datsun. If the now Nissan dealer doesn't know what a 411 sedan is, what chance do I have?

 

"You know you are in trouble when your car is older than the mechanic designated to work on it."

[nukeday]

Here's a last ditch option. I did this on an old Studebaker, and a couple of Ramblers.

 

If you can remove the current seal without damaging it, this should work. I need to look over the 521 manuals again, as well as my own truck. Regardless, this is a functional, low tech way to repair NLA seals, especially smaller ones.

 

Once the seal is out, clean it well. There are several products you can use, I just used 409, followed by windex. Be gentle so as not to tear or further damage the seal. I used an old toothbrush and went very slowly.

 

Next, black RTV and popsicle sticks. Lay the gasket out on cookie sheet or some similar surface that will allow excess RTV to drip/fall but not stick. I taped mine down in a couple of spots with blue painter's tape to keep it from moving. Use the RTV and popsicle sticks to fill in gaps, big cracks, etc. If you put too much you can trim it when it's dry with a razor blade. The smoother you can get it now, the less work later. It doesn't have to be perfect though. The advantage of having it on a flat surface is that you can actually create missing areas of the gasket. Let it dry overnight, flip it over and do the other side. Let it dry again. You can put several coats on if needed to build up really damaged areas.

 

Once it's all dry, you can trim off the lumps and wavy areas with a razor blade, x-acto, or sharp utility knife. I used an x-acto knife. If you want, you can actually sand it with 600 grit once you are done cleaning it up. I only did a couple of sections this way, where I knew the seal had not been sealing previously. I used a can of air to blow it off after I'd sanded it.

 

Lastly, get a big can of black 'liquid tool grip'. There are a couple of ways to immerse the gasket, but the idea is to be careful how you hang it once it's been dipped. I used bent paper clips, inserted into a non visible area of the gasket and hung the whole thing from a clothesline.

 

That's it. It takes forever, and if you're a perfectionist, it's not a great option. I liked how mine came out, they were black, the missing areas were no longer missing, and they actually sealed out the wind.

 

If you can get the real gaskets for >$50 that's obviously the best route.

 

Good luck :)

[tdaaj]

Here's a last ditch option. I did this on an old Studebaker, and a couple of Ramblers.

 

If you can remove the current seal without damaging it, this should work. I need to look over the 521 manuals again, as well as my own truck. Regardless, this is a functional, low tech way to repair NLA seals, especially smaller ones.

 

Once the seal is out, clean it well. There are several products you can use, I just used 409, followed by windex. Be gentle so as not to tear or further damage the seal. I used an old toothbrush and went very slowly.

 

Next, black RTV and popsicle sticks. Lay the gasket out on cookie sheet or some similar surface that will allow excess RTV to drip/fall but not stick. I taped mine down in a couple of spots with blue painter's tape to keep it from moving. Use the RTV and popsicle sticks to fill in gaps, big cracks, etc. If you put too much you can trim it when it's dry with a razor blade. The smoother you can get it now, the less work later. It doesn't have to be perfect though. The advantage of having it on a flat surface is that you can actually create missing areas of the gasket. Let it dry overnight, flip it over and do the other side. Let it dry again. You can put several coats on if needed to build up really damaged areas.

 

Once it's all dry, you can trim off the lumps and wavy areas with a razor blade, x-acto, or sharp utility knife. I used an x-acto knife. If you want, you can actually sand it with 600 grit once you are done cleaning it up. I only did a couple of sections this way, where I knew the seal had not been sealing previously. I used a can of air to blow it off after I'd sanded it.

 

Lastly, get a big can of black 'liquid tool grip'. There are a couple of ways to immerse the gasket, but the idea is to be careful how you hang it once it's been dipped. I used bent paper clips, inserted into a non visible area of the gasket and hung the whole thing from a clothesline.

 

That's it. It takes forever, and if you're a perfectionist, it's not a great option. I liked how mine came out, they were black, the missing areas were no longer missing, and they actually sealed out the wind.

 

If you can get the real gaskets for >$50 that's obviously the best route.

 

Good luck :)

 

i have often thought about this myself. i'm wondering if i can rebuild my rear window gasket for my nl320

[Rubberman]

Is this what your looking for? They say they are for a 620, but I didn't think the 620 came with front 1/4 windows? Maybe overseas? Would they be the same anyway? And yes I'm posting a link to Ebay for all you Ebay haters and if you don't like it, tough.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NISSAN-DATSUN-620-PICKUP-2-DR-FRONT-1-4-WINDOW-RUBBERS_W0QQitemZ350168549418QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item350168549418&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A3%7C294%3A50

[Madness]

For 620's down under... but they look like they're the same shape and size.

 

Can anyone get some measurements from the Aussie 620?

 

[MikeRL411]

When buying replacement wing window rubbers, order both. If you try to order one you will likely run into the "Driver side, Passenger side" Not being "Left, Right" due to differing right hand drive, left hand drive configuration. A very common mix up when ordering old Datsun parts, especially newer replacement parts from Malaysia, Singapore and Australia.