comply Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 That goes on before the flywheel, huh? Shit. Guess I'll put some thread locker on them anyway when I take that puppy off! :D Thanks for noticing! I completely forgot >< Where is the engine plate that goes between the engine and the trans. ? CBB Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 the 4 speed has a 2pc type which can pull out. The 5 speed supplied or later motors had a 1 pc plate and had to go on before the flywheel. I dont use threadlocker on my flywheel bolts. But thats up to you. 100 pounds is get enough torq Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 So we got the motor in, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate all cleaned off(with brake cleaner) and mounted/torqued to specified settings. Slid the transmission(with great effort) into the motor and secured it with bolts. Went to mount the transmission to the crossmember I got from duke and realised it's the same one that the stock transmission used. Doh. Either way it won't fit. If I have it all put together, the shifter side of the transmission sticks WAY into the cockpit and the transmission crossmember is still a goot half inch from touching the car. I dont know what to do with it. And for pictures. Here's our sophisticated mechanism to hold the transmission up while we mounted it to the engine Transmission mount And with the transmission basically inside the passenger compartment of the car, transmission mount on, and crossmember bolted to that, there's still half inch or so between the crossmember and the body of the car. Ugh. Quote Link to comment
MidNite510 Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 did u get that bearing out Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 did u get that bearing out The throwout bearing? Yeah. I removed the old one from the sleeve, cleaned the sleeve off with brake cleaner, packed the inner recess with grease, and pressed the new bearing onto it. Then slid it onto the drive spindle with the retainer clip. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 I found a place to make me some spacers, and they offered me a deal on powder coating too so I had my exhaust manifold sandblasted and high-temp powder coated. Also, how important is it to cover the gap in this plate? Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 Didn't you get both pieces?? I would make a cover for it myself. Looking good..I can't wait to hear her running again! :D Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 Didn't you get both pieces?? I would make a cover for it myself. Looking good..I can't wait to hear her running again! :D it came with a single piece with a chunk missing out of it(seen in picture) I was thinking of cutting out a section of my old one(which is missing half of it somehow) and JB welding it onto there. I dont want to have to take it all apart though. Ugh. My spacers don't work with the stock holes, I wish I would have known that. I knew they'd be off a little bit but I figured I could still use the old holes. We got the driveline in and started mounting the transmission. We are going to drill new holes for the crossmember and throw some huge washers and nuts on the bolts on the inside of the car. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Alright. Got the transmission all finished and mounted. I even got my bushing sanded down and the shifter installed. No play or wobble in it at all! Awesome! We had to drill new holes for the crossmember because of the spacers, but they turned out well. My only concern now is if the exhaust will fit now that the crossmember is an inch and a half lower. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Got the exhaust and intake manifolds on. My exhaust manifold won't hook up with the downpipe/exhaust pipe though. the crossmember is in the way and wont let the exhaust move enough. So once it's running I'm driving it with just the headers to the exhaust shop. Yay. Also got my rad in. Now it's just some wiring, hoses, and fluids. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 I need brake/clutch line to go from the metal line on the body to the transmission. Anyone know where to get it? I checked Checker and they dont have it. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Got the clutch line ordered. Should be here Friday. I'm in a rush to get this all together. Saturday I head to Chicago for 3 weeks and after that I wont have my car to work on anymore. So I've got everything but coolant lines, the clutch line, and some small wiring. As far as coolant lines, where do they go? The ones I took off of the car don't make any sense. Neither does the Haynes manual So do I run hoses along the green path, or the blue one? Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Got everything set up. Had some issues with the timing. Looks like someone put another timing mark on it since the timing plate is on a different part of the motor. Anyway, it's timed to 10 degrees BTDC. Starts up and runs if I give it fuel down the carb. For some reason it's not getting fuel though. Both fuel pumps I have are working. One is brand new. Neither of them will pump fuel. If I take them out, I can pump them by hand and they work great, but when installed they don't pump enough pressure to even suck fuel out of the fuel can. Should I get an electric fuel pump? Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 (edited) Got everything set up. Had some issues with the timing. Looks like someone put another timing mark on it since the timing plate is on a different part of the motor. Anyway, it's timed to 10 degrees BTDC. Starts up and runs if I give it fuel down the carb. For some reason it's not getting fuel though. Both fuel pumps I have are working. One is brand new. Neither of them will pump fuel. If I take them out, I can pump them by hand and they work great, but when installed they don't pump enough pressure to even suck fuel out of the fuel can. Should I get an electric fuel pump? This is what I am talking about.... This is the spacer. As you know..the pump runs off this. Make sure you have the spacer for the fuel pump in place...and not two of them. The concentric washer on the cam drives the fuel pump and if the spacer is not there you will not get enough of a motion to make the pump work properly. Easy fix bro. The timing mark thing...haha..well, that is because I had to use another pully because I cracked the stock one. The one that is on the motor now is from an L20b that is why the marks are off. ;) That was a bad day. Heres my old one. Let me know what you find on the spacer. :D Edited May 22, 2009 by Phlebmaster Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Phlebmaster Your getting good.!!!!!!!! stick a rag in the fuel pump hole and have somebody pump the fuel pump by hand. car should run unless the needle valve or float is stuck closed. I always suggest using the ful pump Ecentric as a spacer even if you use a Electric pump. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 I'm pretty sure there's a spacer on there, but I'll double check! Thanks Aaron! I'll also check to see if the pumping the pump by hand works, Hainz! So excited to get this running. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 stick a rag in there slightly so oil dont come flying out. If you work the pump by hand, once the carb is full of gas the pump arm will go limp. So dont think it goes bad. 1 person working the pump the other in the cockpit starting it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 What motor and carb set up is this? After looking closer at the photo the later L motor th carb came with a idle cut off selenoid so the car/truck doent diesel with the later open chamber heads.IM pretty sure the L20s had them. I think I sent you a veid there was a carb part I was showing. It had a stock L20 carb with a few wires hanging from there. There will be a wire hanging or really a few 1 choke wire 1 BCDD whatever that is 1 idle cut off. Now I dont know what car you have but it looks stock. Early stock carbs did not have these. So Im just lying out the possibilities. A idle cut off it will run if you pump the gas alot.Really its pumping gas from the accell pump circut(you see it squiring in there(like pouring gas from the top using a can) In the higher RPM you use the main jet circut so you dont see but but go back to near idle that jet will be plugged untill it sees 12volts or whatever it takes to trip it. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 The Idle Cut Solenoid is wired up correctly and working. When I turn the key to ON I can hear the solenoid click. The carburetor is off a later model L20. The choke and BCDD aren't hooked up. What motor and carb set up is this? After looking closer at the photo the later L motor th carb came with a idle cut off selenoid so the car/truck doent diesel with the later open chamber heads.IM pretty sure the L20s had them. I think I sent you a veid there was a carb part I was showing. It had a stock L20 carb with a few wires hanging from there. There will be a wire hanging or really a few 1 choke wire 1 BCDD whatever that is 1 idle cut off. Now I dont know what car you have but it looks stock. Early stock carbs did not have these. So Im just lying out the possibilities. A idle cut off it will run if you pump the gas alot.Really its pumping gas from the accell pump circut(you see it squiring in there(like pouring gas from the top using a can) In the higher RPM you use the main jet circut so you dont see but but go back to near idle that jet will be plugged untill it sees 12volts or whatever it takes to trip it. Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Also my fan belt is loose. The Alternator is as far down the guide as it will go. :( Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Also my fan belt is loose. The Alternator is as far down the guide as it will go. :( get a shorter belt :) Quote Link to comment
comply Posted May 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 Got the fuel pump working, I guess we just needed to prime it with some fuel first like Hainz said. After that the car started up and idled great. There was some smoke coming out of the transmission bellhousing through that hold I had. We figured it was exhaust entering through the hole at the bottom of the plate, and coming out through the top. Anyway we shut it off and fixed up the hole at the top. After that we dropped it off the jacks, and tried to drive it a few feet and it just won't idle like it was when it was on the jack stands. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 water lines are the BLUE routing!!!!!!!!!!!!beleive its in the Haynes manual also I thought I PM that already maybe wire up the choke also to see if it idles till it warms up. ck the intake bolts carb bolts again. see if carn runs with distributor crank to one side or the other. if it does. then hit the gas if it doesn the dist/oil pump coud be off a tooth. But I will assume its good. But I know whay happens when I assume? Quote Link to comment
comply Posted July 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 (edited) Alrighty, update. I had some issues with the drivetrain after the swap. Drove it no more than 1/8 of a mile and this happened to the pressure plate and t/o bearing I HAD pictures but they broke. I'll try to upload them later Apparently I used the wrong bearing carrier for the throwout bearing. Lesson learned I ordered a new pressure plate and bearing, got the correct bearing sleeve, and am waiting on delivery to put it back together. Edited July 9, 2009 by comply Quote Link to comment
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