It’s finally running and sounding proper

[silroc]

There’s nothing here that hasn’t been done and posted by many others.

 

Read what you want, look at the pretty pictures. If you want more details on how I did anything feel free to ask.

 

So last year I got the truck running well enough to drive it some and it was OK, but really lacking power and throttle response. I always thought it was going to die on me when I stopped at a light. That and new spark plugs 1 & 2 would turn black within 10 minutes while 3 & 4 looked fine.

 

This year’s fixing includes:

1.       Emission delete

2.       Exhaust system

3.       Weber carburetor using original air cleaner

4.       Intake manifold

5.       Temp gauge

 

Emission delete

I read all the arguments for and against the emission delete. For me the most annoying thing was the look of the clutter! And knowing that this is a summer car, I thought I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. I’m very happy with the clean, clutter free engine bay.

 

 

Exhaust system

The original exhaust was not rusted through buy badly dented in and the muffler was kind of blown out. I was glad to get that removed. I went with 2” pipe all the way back, using car store piece parts, cutting them to fit a/r, then welded into an assembly. I used a “turbo” type muffler (from Rockauto) out back and a nicer Vibrant resonator in the middle (where the catalytic converter was). Very pleased with the look and sound.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I purchased a header a long time ago from Bill’s Datsun and had looked forward to putting it on (the temptation of putting a header on a car is strong, isn’t it?). But after looking closely at the header and reading all of Datzenmike’s convincing arguments against headers, I used the original cast iron one – and am very glad I did. I used KBS paint products and am satisfied with them, just wish I had chosen a gray color instead of the jet black. Also, I had purchased quality header wrap, so figured I had it might as well use it. Gives some color that I wanted.

 

 

 

Weber carburetor and original AC

The carb was pretty straight forward, just a few mods; I used the Hitachi throttle cable lever instead of that cheap thing that comes with the Weber, but that meant I had to extend the throttle cable bracket out so the cable would pull straight. Also made my own throttle return spring bracket to increase the pull and in the best direction.

 

Along with the Weber, I bought the “good” adapter as recommended in Ratsun posts. I agree it is well made unlike the one that comes with the carb. However, it adds considerable height. Even though the Weber is shorter than the Hitachi, the stack up still seemed too high to copy what difrangia did with the adapter plate, so I went my own [crude] way; I bought the Redline adapter, cut off the top to create a “chimney” that I could work with, then cut out the AC to fit the profile of the chimney and basically used a lot of black rubber caulk (3M Super Silicone Sealant 08622 – good stuff btw) to make it one piece.

 

I made the AC cutout hole such that it was rotated and off center to the carb center in order to try and gain some clearance to things underneath (fuel connection and choke). But this meant the original bracket didn’t fit the same, so I had to do a little bending to that and make an adapter to move the mounting holes out, up, and over.

 

Without the original round clamping mechanism, I wanted something else to hold down the back of the AC, so just went with a spring to a new bracket. The top of the AC is now about ½” to the hood underside at the closest point.

 

As I said it’s pretty crude and was a PITA to get it all to work, but so far so good with everything. How many years will it last? Probably not too many, but I’ll deal with it then.

 

 

 

 

Redline adapter - before cutting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intake manifold

I purchased this shiny intake from Ebay years ago, again, figured I had it might as well use it. Seems to be working fine. Would have preferred a nice aluminum Offenhauser.

 

The old gasket looked bad. Maybe this explains the 1 & 2 plug fouling. I used a quality gasket and sprayed both sides with copper spray-a-gasket. I heard mixed reviews on using that stuff but seems to have worked, I’m all up for better sealing.

 

And all plugs are looking the same now – really clean after a fair amount of driving.

 

 

 

Temp gauge

Turns out the non-working temp gauge was due to a failed sender. Got a new one on Rockauto, works like a champ – runs nice and cool!

 

 

Summary

After all this work it runs really really well. I think just the combination of everything added up to the good performance. It starts and idles well and pretty much jumps at the throttle. I’ve read a few comments in Ratsun regarding performance and that “nobody really floors it anyway”, well I enjoy flooring it when it’s up around 3500 and I can feel the butterflys kick wide open and it actually has some pull. Still, it’s a little old 4-banger, but it’s that enjoyable experience of driving a slow car fast.

 

A couple more things post script:

A friend convinced me to paint the AC black. What do you think?

 

 

 

The license plate

I couldn’t believe it when I found this plate on etsy – correct year Pennsylvania plate and stickers, TRUCK, and 620. I couldn’t have asked for much more. Now if only PA DMV will agree.

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Clean and very well done. Kept the PCV valve, good, and the original air cleaner housing, which is how everyone should do it. Return spring in proper alignment with cable. Do you drive it in the winter? maybe get the ATC connected up on the air filter housing if you do. Oh... black looks fine to me.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Man this looks great

Only thing look like soembody yanked a few springs out of the leaf springs. Might get axle wrap unless that what it cam with. they make lowering blocks Belltech.

 

exahaust is beatiful. Knowing what I know now I would get a queit muffler for trucks

Edited July 22 by banzai510(hainz)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Nicely done. I can't see exactly how the air cleaner is held to the carb, but as long as it doesn't jiggle around, it should be fine. FWIW - I welded a plate into the middle of an original air cleaner that bolted to the Weber.

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

Only thing look like soembody yanked a few springs out of the leaf springs. Might get axle wrap unless that what it cam with. they make lowering blocks Belltech.

 

 

 

 

Good eye. The leaf spring pack is what laterally supports the rear axle in place. On hard cornering the axle will want to shift to the side and the leaf will subjected to torsional loads and try to turn over on it's side. I would not remove another.   

[RyanC]

That is one clean engine bay