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    '78 620, '04 STI, '14 Jeep JKU
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    electrical engineer

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  1. I too am curious about the graphics on my truck. However, mine are definitely painted on. It appears to be very well done and, although funky, doesn’t seem funky enough for a one-off custom job. Around the time I saw my truck on ebay, I believe a saw another one with the same paint scheme. So, these two things lead me to think this was a factory option or maybe one dealer in California was doing them. Who knows! I'm just looking forward to someday buffing it all out and shining it up - its all still remarkably intact.
  2. I’m going through this same process so was glad to find this thread. In my case, if I have the bleeder screw removed, I can pump the pedal and squirt fluid. But when I insert the bleeder screw – even just a little – no squirting. It seems as if the master cylinder is working well enough when there is no pressure (open pipes) but the internal cup? is weak and is leaking fluid around it internally if there is back pressure. I went ahead and did the gravity bleed – letting the fluid flow out, then inserted the screw quickly and fully before the reservoir emptied out. But still there is no actuation of the slave cylinder when I pump the pedal and no resistance. I guess the next step is to disassemble the master cylinder, see what’s going on, repair/replace as needed. Unless there are some suggestions to save me from that effort? Are there rebuild kits for the master cylinder or just the whole thing?
  3. Thanks for the advice. Coming from someone with your experience, I take it to heart.
  4. I did a little experiment with all the plugs hooked up at the same time so I could compare the sparks. Here is the video of the cranking (in the dark). https://imgur.com/V8TrdTb https://i.imgur.com/V8TrdTb.mp4 Newbie to Imagur too, don't know why the video link doesn't work like the pic's. Kind of hard to tell if all the sparks are equal. They all seem to spark brighter/dimmer sometimes. But at least they are all firing. Haven't checked the manifold bolts yet. When installing the new pulley, I eye-balled the crank slot and made a mark so I could line up the pulley slot with it. I think its pretty close - I'd say within a 1/32. I figured these engines aren't all that precise!
  5. You guys are quick on the help! I ran the fuel line into a little 1 gallon gas can (I don't know what's in the tank), and it definitely used that up. This is my first L20, but have listened to quite a few motors in my time. To me it sounds like it runs OK. What I would expect for an old truck 4-banger. I guess a little shake initially, but smoothed out after a minute. Rev'd it up towards the end, seemed fine. Nothing slips by you Mike - I did that with the heater hose just temporarily. Good tip tho - guess I could just clamp the hose to stop the flow next time. Here are a couple of pics as you asked for
  6. I put the new pulley on - without a key but with the recommended locktite and torque - holding so far so good. Before I put it all back together I cleaned up the engine compartment. I applied an Everbrite satin to give it a little shine. I only ran it for about 15 minutes to warm it up for a compression check. That turned out good with about 163-165 psi on all four cylinders. However, a couple things from that little run time; First, it sucked down a gallon of gas sitting there idling for 10 minutes! Is that do be expected? Seems like the exhaust fumes are heavy - not white, blue, or black, just noxious! Secondly, I pulled out the brand new set of plugs to take a look and found #1, #2 coated dry black. Again, this after only 15 minutes of run time. Maybe some connection with the poor gas mileage and these two cylinders? What would cause only two cylinders to be this way?
  7. Excellent! Thank you, Crash
  8. Yeah the bolt was loose. Do you know if the pulley and keys are available anywhere? I poked around on the internet some without luck so far. woodruff key = Nissan #00926-51600 Pulley = Nissan #12304-B9800 or 12303-U6000 Btw, I'm now retired so have started on my 620 project. I wanted to get this problem fixed first so I can run the engine some. I'll be posting progress pic's as I go. Not sure how much people want to see. Seems with this website everyone has been there, done that. Thanks for the help as always.
  9. Dug into it and found the big bolt holding the lower pulley was loose as was the pulley itself. Doesn't look good - the woodruff key was sheared over and worn down, the pully ID looks messed up and its' slot. The crankshaft key slot looks bad too. Otherwise the crankshaft has some marks on it, but looks like the pulley was the softer metal. So... how bad is the news? Do I look for a replacement pulley (stock or aftermarket?) Or get this one machined if that's possible. Does anyone have info for a replacement woodruff key (dimensions, availability)? While I'm at it, was considering new radiator with electric fans, in which case I'd want to remove the upper fan and "TEM-COUPLING" unit. Is there anyway to remove that TEM-COUPLING part or do I have to install a new water pump that doesn't have one? Thanks much
  10. I was looking to replace the front felt, so found this thread to follow. I purchased the AS1198 rubber from Restoration Specialties. To me it seemed much smaller than the original felt - being loose in the metal channel and not holding the glass as tight or deep. So thought I'd try the AS1395 instead. It's only slightly bigger dimensionally, but that makes a big difference. The only thing is I'm going to take a razor and trim off the little ridge sticking our on both sides. That made it conform to the square channel better. Also, this one fits so tight I can't imagine it needing any glue - but we'll see! https://imgur.com/a/ZeqmpBb
  11. silroc

    dash cover

    OK, thanks for all the great info! I'll steer clear of that dash cover.
  12. silroc

    dash cover

    Has anyone bought one of the "Dashtop" dash covers from Palco Industries? I think it is more of a hard shell instead of the cushioned type. Also, for some reason the search function for this site stopped working for me - any suggestions? If I get that fixed it might save me from asking the same old questions! Thanks much
  13. Hi All Figured I'd join the club here and share my project. I know I'll be asking questions and getting a lot of valuable information from the website. After perusing ebay for years looking at the myriad of collectable cars, I came across the tricked out blue King Cab being sold by Datsun LLC in California. I thought this was about the coolest vehicle I’d seen and it planted the seed to do one of my own. So I’m the one that went for this ’78 King Cab on ebay in May that got no bids after several auctions. It’s a California truck so it’s practically rust free, however, the rubber and plastic are pretty well shot from the sun. Odometer says 66K but I’m doubtful even though the seller claimed it’s true (3rd owner in NC). It came with some old paperwork, but nothing to verify the mileage. Overall it’s a little rougher than I hoped (paid) for but it’s about perfect for what I wanted. I’ll be getting creative with it so didn’t want something I felt compelled to restore to stock. Thought I’d pull the bed and do the back of the truck first – brakes, suspension, painting, whatever else I find that needs done. Buying parts in the meantime. I’ll be in no big hurry to get it on the road, just wanted something to tinker with. I’ve never done a restoration before but have owned a few classic cars over the years. I’m an engineer and like things done right. I suspect it will come out nicely. Will keep you posted. Thanks in advance for all the helpful tips! Silroc Pittsburgh
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