Clutch failing to bleed

[MCRideFan53]

My 1985 720 king cab (manual) has been having transmission issues.

 

Earlier, if the engine was running, I was unable to shift into first gear or reverse from a standstill. Reverse was met with grinding, and first just wouldn't go in. Additionally, downshifting while driving caused grinding as well.

 

Long story short, clutch was not disengaging.

 

I attempted bleeding my system today; started by bleeding the clutch damper which went as expected, lots of bubbles that soon slowed, then I was met with pure fluid coming out. Perfect. All the while I was topping up my reservoir.

 

Next, I bled the active (or slave) cylinder. This time the bubbles didn't stop no matter how much fluid I ran through the system. 

 

Started the truck, now I can shift into first (with some resistance), but still no luck with reverse.

 

I tried bleeding the damper again, and am now met with never ending bubbles there as well.

 

Additional information: the pin on the slave cylinder appears to be moving around 3/4" when the clutch is activated. Also, I was using one of those hand pump self bleeding tools for all of this.

 

Any ideas?

[Thomas Perkins]

Are you putting the bleeder container with the magnet higher than the slave cylinder so air can not go back in.I use a one man bleeder kit too but I have my wife pump the clutch pedal.It takes a bunch of times to get all the air out.After I get it right,I take it for a ride and bleed it again.I never ever bled my damper ,had my truck over 30 years. I put a new slave cylinder on not long ago.It was doing good but slave cylinder was leaking a little bit.My clutch master cylinder is fairly new.In time the yellow  fluid will get dark.Before you bleed, wipe out the clutch master cylinder and get all the black stuff out.If your slave cylinder ever goes bad on the road,you can bleed it and make it home.I did.

Edited May 19 by Thomas Perkins

[MCRideFan53]

Thomas, what's your procedure for bleeding while your wife pumps the clutch? I had someone depress the pedal, I could open the bleeder and suck fluid and bubbles until the rod on the slave cylinder was back to it's resting position, then do that again. Does this seem right?

[datzenmike]

I fill the reservoir and open the slave bleeder and it flows out bubbles and all. If completely empty you may have to step down on the pedal and hold to push some fluid into the line, close the bleeder, lift pedal, open bleeder, depress pedal and hold, close bleeder. Usually twice is enough. Next time the bleeder is opened the weight of the fluid in the line is enough to start it siphoning.

 

Using a vacuum pump you are possibly sucking air in past the seal on the slave. If possible try sucking on the line by itself to get it clear then connect to the slave. Fluid should siphon out

 

3/4" isn't enough, should be just over an inch.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Is the pedal out of adjustment?

[banzai510(hainz)]

If the gears are all in the up direction it could be a arm not throwing it far enught

 

I had my toyota pickup the master was bad. the truck only had like front brakes and pedal was going half way down. Someone told me maybe the oil was going past the seal(but not leaking externally)  I replaced that and it worked.

 

So maybe once you bleed system have somebody push on the master hold it and look at the slave see if it moves over time