Manual Locking Hub/Wheel Bearing Question

[sTanTruck]

Hi all, 

I recently replaced the CV axles in my 1986 Nissan 720. I haven't driven the truck much since because of other issues I am currently working through. I was able to get the thermostat installed and took it for a test drive to help it get up to temp. I noticed that my locking hubs were really hot (yes, they are in the "free" position"), couldn't hold my hand on there more than 2-3 seconds. I am wondering if I over-tightened the wheel bearing. I believe the wheel bearing preload is set with the nut the locking ring slides into. Does this sound like it could be the culprit or do you suspect something else? 

 

As always thank you, 

Dylan 

[datzenmike]

Might want to inspect the bearings.  I've seen them hot enough to turn water to steam and they were ok. Wheel grease melts at 400-500F. If it was smoking I'd maybe worry.

 

Loosen wheel bearing lock nut.

Turn wheel several times in both directions

Use a fish scale and pull on a wheel stud and measure the force needed to start turning and record this as "A".

Turn wheel bearing lock nut 15⁰ to 30⁰

Fit lock washer onto wheel nut.

Turn wheel several turns in both directions.

Measure starting force with fish scale and record as "B"

Your wheel bearing preload "C' is B-A.

C should be 1.59-4.72 pounds

Repeat till you get the proper pre load.

 

[sTanTruck]

Without pulling apart the hub, could I check the preload by rotating the wheel? It shouldn't be loose or too tight. I spun the cv axles to verify they weren't stuck in the locked position internally.  Is this normal for hubs to get this hot? Should I even be concerned? 

[datzenmike]

Yeah I guess so.

 

No they shouldn't get hot. Is it heat from the rotor? Were you braking hard

[bottomwatcher]

Wheel bearings are very sensitive to overtorquing. They heat up and then fail shortly afterwords. Just advice from an old redneck that drives all kinds of crap vehicles and has a halft dozen trailers so take this for what it is worth. Tighten bearing until slack is all gone and there is a slight friction starting then back the castle nut off a notch until friction is gone and there isn't anything but maybe the slightest amount of slack. Never had a bearing fail from overtightening since and this is how I have adjusted my 720 for the last 34 years. Good luck.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

22 hours ago, sTanTruck said:

Without pulling apart the hub, could I check the preload by rotating the wheel? It shouldn't be loose or too tight. I spun the cv axles to verify they weren't stuck in the locked position internally.  Is this normal for hubs to get this hot? Should I even be concerned? 

You can check the preload. Best to remove the brake pads or the caliper or simply push back the pads in the caliper. Then get a cheap fish scale and pull on one of the wheel studs. If it's more than 12-15 pounds, they are too tight.

[sTanTruck]

Thank you all for the reply's. I am going to have to take the hubs apart anyways to put new ball joints in. I will try these methods when I go to reassemble. 

[ElliotV]

2 hours ago, sTanTruck said:

Thank you all for the reply's. I am going to have to take the hubs apart anyways to put new ball joints in. I will try these methods when I go to reassemble. 

You don't really have to take the hubs far apart to do the ball joints but you do have to take the cv out which I took the locking hub off and removed the snap ring to do. That would be the perfect time to check your preload.

[sTanTruck]

17 hours ago, ElliotV said:

You don't really have to take the hubs far apart to do the ball joints but you do have to take the cv out which I took the locking hub off and removed the snap ring to do. That would be the perfect time to check your preload.

Are you saying to remove the snap ring, remove the bolts to the differential,  and push the CV axle out? I was planning on taking the hub completely apart and trying to leave the diff side of the CV alone. 

 

Any other tips for replacing the upper and lower ball joints? I am going to be attempting this over the weekend!

[bottomwatcher]

Leave the diff side alone. Just the snapring on the axle assembly and the hub will slide right off.

[ElliotV]

11 hours ago, sTanTruck said:

Are you saying to remove the snap ring, remove the bolts to the differential,  and push the CV axle out? I was planning on taking the hub completely apart and trying to leave the diff side of the CV alone. 

 

Any other tips for replacing the upper and lower ball joints? I am going to be attempting this over the weekend!

make sure you have a good ball joint seperator like this one the  pickle forks do not do the job at all but I did have to cut the stud on the lower joint with a angle grinder to get it to push on it straight. Make sure you have a extra jack or something though to move the bottom control arm to help get the bolts lined up for the ball joint. And no you dont have to touch the end on differential, like bottomwatcher said just pop off the snap ring and the axle should slide out the hub.

Edited April 26 by ElliotV

[sTanTruck]

All went smoothly. Thank you everyone for the advice. Grabbed a ball joint separator and that did the trick once I filed it slightly to fit over the lower ball joint shaft. 

[ElliotV]

58 minutes ago, sTanTruck said:

All went smoothly. Thank you everyone for the advice. Grabbed a ball joint separator and that did the trick once I filed it slightly to fit over the lower ball joint shaft. 

Glad to hear it all went well. Makes you feel better when everything goes to plan.