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i bent a connecting rod lol


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4 hours ago, nathan.is.an.idiot12312 said:

im saying this because i know oil has a much higher ignition point than gas and the engine wasnt all the way hot when it happened

 

Oil preventing cylinder firing (if that's even a thing) won't hydro lock or anything else other than smoke a lot. I've driven a dozen miles with a plug wire off and nothing happens. If head gasket blown, enough coolant might get in to hydro lock but doubtful.

 

A liquid such as coolant in not compressible like air is. If enough gets into a cylinder the piston is stopped from rising to the top of it's stroke. The crankshaft will have none of that and the rod bends.

 

OhsNHrk.jpg

 

This is from a blown KA engine. As you can see, no piston. It disintegrated in the bore blocking the rod from reaching the top and...

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alright so i just spent the last 5 hours pulling the head and reassembling it but i drove it from my driveway into the garage before and it sounded like the knock or ticking or whatever was much quieter, i assume its cause the oil was cold and she fired up just as she normally does except she sounded like a lawn mower lol

definitely not a blown head gasket lol i check my coolant for debris and oil often and shes real clean (still was when i drained her to take the head off

 

heres the results:

DSCN6001.JPG

DSCN6002.JPG

DSCN6003.JPG

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image.jpeg.7ba733edf063957ea6884b9b004fb20f.jpeg

 

From good to bad #3, #1, #4, #2. All exhaust should look like #3

 

image.jpeg.f7fcf25b320c5bd21280fdf7207d2176.jpeg

 

Probably a casting or mold number. If rebuilding why place it in a position that can't be seen? Usually it would be stamped somewhere under the valve cover.

 

image.jpeg.a6cc95f927cc1a9db2db007c09aeb44f.jpeg

 

Really hard to tell but #3 looks cleanest/driest. How do the cylinder walls look?

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

image.jpeg.7ba733edf063957ea6884b9b004fb20f.jpeg

 

From good to bad #3, #1, #4, #2. All exhaust should look like #3

 

image.jpeg.f7fcf25b320c5bd21280fdf7207d2176.jpeg

 

Probably a casting or mold number. If rebuilding why place it in a position that can't be seen? Usually it would be stamped somewhere under the valve cover.

 

image.jpeg.a6cc95f927cc1a9db2db007c09aeb44f.jpeg

 

Really hard to tell but #3 looks cleanest/driest. How do the cylinder walls look?

probably not good the lighting wasnt the greatest, the front side of cylinder twos wall was almost touching the block but the rest of the sleeves looked straight

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Posted (edited)

i put my old platinum plugs back (that i thought were fouled back when i was having the misfire problem but)in while i was at it too because it looked like it needed it, i also leared that i have an old weber 26/27 dgav, not a 32/36 

IMG_1422.jpeg

Edited by nathan.is.an.idiot12312
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21 hours ago, nathan.is.an.idiot12312 said:

because i dont know any reliable sources for parts i obviously asked this in the beggining of the post. and i dont know everything but i know enough. 

 

i didnt come to these forums for your negative feedback so shut the hell up or help me out. your choice.

I believe you called us dickheads, so you threw the first punch.

 

We are here to help, but if advice is not taken, or incomplete information is given, then what can we do but sit back and watch?

 

Sucks that you had to tear into it, but at least now that you're there, you can put hands on everything and test/verify to find the problems and make the repairs. Also, try not to take shortcuts, especially when you're learning this stuff. Get advice from your local engine shop too. Bring the head in and have them check it for straight and for cracks. That's the first place I would start.

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Ok, looking back through your pics, you did not drain the coolant before removing the head, so the wetness could be coolant that spilled over when you removed the head.

 

#2 and #4 look like they have been burning oil, and the damage in the #2 chamber tells me there was some "foreign object" floating around in there. The most common thing is a broken spark plug strap, but it could be anything really. Did you find anything in there? On top of the piston or lodged into the combustion chanber?

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Ok, looking back through your pics, you did not drain the coolant before removing the head, so the wetness could be coolant that spilled over when you removed the head.

Happen to me!!!!!!!!

 

that carb is perfect size if there is a 26/27 DGV. I dont think I ever heard of one untiell now

 

 

so car is now running good? Im kinda confused on whats going going now

 

PS the oil light going out dont mean shit. I ran a 510 out of oil or really low. light dont come on only right before start. soemone says it senses 1 pound it will go out. But on my 510 I went back to the light. as I dont like running chinese cheap plastic lines that come with those cheap gauge kits. over time they crack. then all the oil is out on the ground. If buying a line buy a GOOD one braided type.

 

If this is a oil burner and rings are shot as you said. How much oil you go thru a tankfull.

I had a  beat 100$ 510 was a quart every 2 days after ran it out of oil. but still ran

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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2 hours ago, nathan.is.an.idiot12312 said:

probably not good the lighting wasnt the greatest, the front side of cylinder twos wall was almost touching the block but the rest of the sleeves looked straight

 

You know what this means, but to me it's not making any sense at all. Diesels have removable sleeves, L series are just holes in the block that fit the piston. Explain in simpler terms. Better quality pictures can explain a lot too.

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no the car does not run good i was just mentioning that i came across the fact that it wasnt a 32/36 but a 26/27

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Happen to me!!!!!!!!

 

that carb is perfect size if there is a 26/27 DGV. I dont think I ever heard of one untiell now

 

 

so car is now running good? Im kinda confused on whats going going now

 

PS the oil light going out dont mean shit. I ran a 510 out of oil or really low. light dont come on only right before start. soemone says it senses 1 pound it will go out. But on my 510 I went back to the light. as I dont like running chinese cheap plastic lines that come with those cheap gauge kits. over time they crack. then all the oil is out on the ground. If buying a line buy a GOOD one braided type.

 

If this is a oil burner and rings are shot as you said. How much oil you go thru a tankfull.

I had a  beat 100$ 510 was a quart every 2 days after ran it out of oil. but still ran

lol i go through 3 quarts a week 3 ( so roughly 3 quarts a tank)

my oil light has indeed come on once or twice. if im low enough on oil it will flash on when i make turns, accellerate off the line or brake. 

27 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

You know what this means, but to me it's not making any sense at all. Diesels have removable sleeves, L series are just holes in the block that fit the piston. Explain in simpler terms. Better quality pictures can explain a lot too.

this is an A15 and if these engines dont come factory with sleeves i believe that this engine has been rebuilt

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and yes i drained the coolant from the head when i took the intake and exhause manifold off but forgot to detatch th hose from the head so some spilled in the cylinder i made aure to wipe everything off and dabb the coolant off of everything before i put it on, like i said, the head gasket is good, (looked almost new lol)

 

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