1977 620 L20B no spark condition on fuel injection conversion

[maximus35]

Hello, needing some help on the coil wiring, I want to make sure I have it wired correctly. So for a little background, it is a 77 620 with the L20B and ive installed a Fitech 2 barrel unit. As of now, It turns over, fitech unit is powered, fuel is good but no spark. I have a new electronic distributor, ngk coil and new ballast resistor. I labeled how I currently have the wires, I have also tried connecting the ballast resistor wires to themselves with no difference. I'm hoping someone here might have done this conversion or can atleast share how the factory coil wires are supposed to be, thanks in advance!

[datzenmike]

Electronic distributor? You mean without points? What ohm coil are you using?

 

Why is there a ballast resistor?

 

[maximus35]

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Electronic distributor? You mean without points? What ohm coil are you using?

 

Why is there a ballast resistor?

 

Yes, without points. It is the Boursin electronic unit on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/165636726418?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uk39hI0CSra&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Vw1mEZsaR2O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The coil is a NGK U1099, external resistor. I couldn’t find anything on the coil about Ohms but from what I read online it is .93 ohms. 

[datzenmike]

Need to see a picture under the distributor cap. Nissan IE distributors don't need a ballast resister and the coil 0.93 ohms is perfect. This one shouldn't need it but not a Nissan one so???? who knows???

 

The distributor shown in the link does not show the module on the side so I'm curious.

[maximus35]

2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Need to see a picture under the distributor cap. Nissan IE distributors don't need a ballast resister and the coil 0.93 ohms is perfect. This one shouldn't need it but not a Nissan one so???? who knows???

 

The distributor shown in the link does not show the module on the side so I'm curious.

I also tried connecting the two ballast resistor wires together and no difference. I was worried that since my truck was a 77, I would need to add an ignition unit, such as the GM hei. Here is what my distributor looks like 

[datzenmike]

Looks like a module inside.

 

It says it replaces Datsuns after '77 so it should handle an EI coil that is just under 1 ohm.

 

See if this helps.

 

The ON position wire for the '77 should be the Black/White stripe.

The START position wire for the '77 should be the Black/Red stripe.

Use a test lamp or meter to confirm.

 

[maximus35]

37 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Looks like a module inside.

 

It says it replaces Datsuns after '77 so it should handle an EI coil that is just under 1 ohm.

 

See if this helps.

 

The ON position wire for the '77 should be the Black/White stripe.

The START position wire for the '77 should be the Black/Red stripe.

Use a test lamp or meter to confirm.

 

Here are the wires I have going to the coil. The connector from the main harness has a black with red stripe wire, which later becomes a black with blue stripe wire once it connects to the coil harness. There is the black with white wire on both sides of the connector. I have now moved the black with blue stripe wire (the black with red stripe previously) to the + side of the coil. No difference but my ballast resistor got very hot, should I connect the two ballast wires together? On my last test I had the white with black stripe wire on the + side of the ballast and the blue on the - side.

[maximus35]

[maximus35]

[datzenmike]

The best way is to test the

 

 

The ON position wire for the '77 should be the Black/White stripe. This is hot when ignition is on.

The START position wire for the '77 should be the Black/Red stripe. This is hot only in the START position

 

You can join these two together and connect to the coil positive and to power the distributor.

 

The other wire from the distributor goes to the coil negative terminal to interrupt the power through it to ground.

[maximus35]

Yes, we did test them to confirm that and they are both on the coil + now. The black wire from the distributor is going to the coil - and the white wire is going to the coil +. Is the ballast resistor wired correctly? I  I had the white with black stripe wire on the + side of the ballast and the blue on the - side. It got very hot so I was assuming not. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

a boursin dist is like a pertronix type old style  EI CONVERSION and yes I would use the stock coil and ballast

pertronixballast.bmp

this is sold thru zcardepot. maybe go to that site and get the specs by im sure it needs a ballast.  Its not a true electronic ignition. just a conversion like a Pertronix or HOTSPARK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326001702336?itmmeta=01HPM8CWMAKQZ8MAWR20JEVE8H&hash=item4be73735c0:g:ZG0AAOSwj~Zlxjc9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0I%2FrsfrGLpWDzbGa8Drzv6K%2BeEXj8VZQMKn21Akfx6N9mcidLeTOuHAj8gcHJeGHdHseqvnwfL88fFcH0AqvlPfjWoBD6uY5sCHa9S%2FTuCktNyiu1A8Y3qLeztVrsIrb0JMsvNp3wcYBc2xeXO3kOKIDcIPBVeEjLHFChEa4BBFcAEvvY6Ift4x1d%2Bg8pLp2icIkg8qNTeI4B6PMDUkqTgAvgmGQypP8LW%2BJtBS1fEjzAqQ%2BrbuIOWFEcUDL2u0EnENbGN7qvgz0K7tqtU%2FWNoI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR57Ks4i1Yw

 

 

Key is does the dist rotor point to number one plug wire when at TDC.   I cannot confer that the timing plate that come with this is the same as the stock distributor. YOU have to take note bfore removing.

 

to see if Dist works just pull the center coil wire place near ground and see if sparks when cranking. If sparks then check to see if its timed correctly

 

 

PS if you run it without a Ballst for too long it can pop that module in the distributor, Then really NO SPARK

 

Edited February 14 by banzai510(hainz)

[maximus35]

8 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

a boursin dist is like a pertronix type old style  EI CONVERSION and yes I would use the stock coil and ballast

pertronixballast.bmp 900.05 kB · 2 downloads

 

 

Key is does the dist rotor point to number one plug wire when at TDC.   I cannot confer that the timing plate that come with this is the same as the stock distributor. YOU have to take note bfore removing.

 

to see if Dist works just pull the center coil wire place near ground and see if sparks when cranking. If sparks then check to see if its timed correctly

It was pointing correctly when I installed it at TDC I’m fairly sure, and I used a pedestal from a separate EI 620 distributor I had and it all fit well. I do not have it wired like your diagram but I can change that and test again, then once we get spark we can make sure the timing is good, thanks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

really it should be wired already with the ends on like stock to the ballast and hotstart to +side coil.  SO not cutting of wires or connector ends off. Since its a 77 620 that org had points

Edited February 14 by banzai510(hainz)

[maximus35]

2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

really it should be wired already with the ends on like stock to the ballast and hotstart to +side coil.  SO not cutting of wires or connector ends off. Since its a 77 620 that org had points

Yes, I did have the ballast wired in, I just meant I did not have the + wire from the distributor going to the ballast resistor like your diagram, that is what I would be changing

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yes that would be correct.I have seen people wire it to the down side of the ballast and seem to still work but that would be like 6volt running the distributor

 

you can alwasy put the stock dist back in if works then you know you popped your module

Edited February 14 by banzai510(hainz)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You have to show us pics of the install.

[maximus35]

2 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You have to show us pics of the install.

In the beginning of this post I showed how the wires were set up and what they went to, I’ve since changed it based on the feedback I got on here but I noted the changes I made, once I change it to the set up that @banzai510(hainz) recommended, I may upload a new picture 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Pics of the EFI unit and the pump and all that. Please!

[banzai510(hainz)]

i COULDNT see seethe ones you linked from some reason on this computer

[maximus35]

After rewiring it to the new diagram that @banzai510(hainz) recommended, still no spark. I will upload pictures to make sure I did it correctly. Currently, I have a black with blue stripe going to coil +, a white with black stripe going to coil + that also goes to the ballast resistor positive. Then I have the distributor black wire going to coil -. On the ballast resistor I have the white distributor wire going to the + side of the ballast resistor, as well as a white with black stripe wire going to + side of ballast resistor, on the other side of the ballast resistor I have a solid blue wire. 

[maximus35]

[maximus35]

[maximus35]

[banzai510(hainz)]

I assume you checkecd tp make sure you have 12volts with key ON going to the +side ballast. other side ballas is around 6- 9 volts to the +side coil.

 

with Key in START that wire should be at the +side coil. which will be the same as the down side of ballast. This is the bypass or HOT START wire.

you can disconnect the starter wire to check this.

 

 

Key ON is to +side Ballast resistor also connect the PLUS of your new dist to this.  Minus side of your new distributor to the Minus side coil.

 

 

I cant see the photos for some reason