datzenmike Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 Electric choke is better. There's nothing to do. It's all built in and takes care of itself. Quote Link to comment
Dats_Mandersun_408 Posted February 9 Author Report Share Posted February 9 I don't have a ballast resistor so I wired it up to my fuse box? to the radio and cigarette lighter cause I don't have a radio. should I get a ballast resistor? It started up and was running and then cuts right out again.. then starts up and then dies and now won't start ... do I need to adjust the choke? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 (edited) if your stock carb had a wire to it thats the 12volt wire for the choke.Cant you remeberber? look at the old carb. tdid you have a pull cable for the choke or not????????? Cig lighter is 12volts all the time and you have the choke HEATING UP even when not driving cooking the element WHAT YOU THINKING????? . You want a switchable key source for the choke. a 72 will have 12volt wire LOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! otherwise you will have a dead battery. ballast resisitor is for point ignition or with point resisitive COIL. take photos and post what you have. soem reason I cant see your photos. this is a simple truck hope you dont hack the wires up and make it undriviable soon Edited February 9 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 Unless the distributor was changed to an EI system the coil must work with a ballast resistor or the points and the coil will overheat and wear out. It's the white thing mounted under the coil Post a picture of your distributor... Quote Link to comment
Dats_Mandersun_408 Posted February 10 Author Report Share Posted February 10 I do have an electric distributor here's what I got now and the the way it was Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 Can't tell from the pictures what it is. Can you take the cap off? Quote Link to comment
Dats_Mandersun_408 Posted February 10 Author Report Share Posted February 10 (edited) Edited February 10 by Dats_Mandersun_408 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 Yes, it's a much later '80s? EI distributor from outside North America where L and Z series engines were still used. It has the 'matchbox' mounted inside the distributor just like the 720 trucks. It's not the traditional Remote Igniter or Matchbox EI. I'm sorry could I get a picture without the rotor on? Never seen one of these. Quote Link to comment
Dats_Mandersun_408 Posted February 10 Author Report Share Posted February 10 no bother for me to take the pic, I appreciate the help 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 The '81-'86 720s had an EI distributor (above) which was the natural progression from points to remote igniter (electronics box mounted in cab) to matchbox (electronics miniaturized and mounted on side of distributor) to the 720 and S110 200sx which had the igniter miniaturized further and mounted inside the distributor. This 720 distributor had 8 spark plugs. This distributor you have might be from Mexico? where the 4 plug head was retained or some other country but still retained the superior EI function. It obviously fits the L series so it would be nice to know where it came from as the matchbox are getting rare and hard to find. Thank-you. Quote Link to comment
Dats_Mandersun_408 Posted February 10 Author Report Share Posted February 10 yea it came with the truck so im not sure where it came from... so is it really bad to connect it to my fuse box? or where should I connect it to? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 23 hours ago, IZRL said: Are you talking about the nut side or where the studs go into the manifold? It depends on the adapter (one piece or two piece), but loctite on the pocket screws is advised either way. Lock washers on the carb base nuts are standard, and even those come loose from time to time, but tightening them doesn't require removing the carb. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 1 hour ago, Dats_Mandersun_408 said: yea it came with the truck so im not sure where it came from... so is it really bad to connect it to my fuse box? or where should I connect it to? You can connect to the fuse box but it must be the fuses that are switched on/off with the ignition. because the adapter bolts come loose there is a tendency to re-tighten even harder and this can crack the adapter leading to funky vacuum leaks that are hard to find. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 (edited) thats seems to be a distributor I havent seen before. If this was running before I assume its ok but ez to ck for spark. get center of the coil wire from dist and place near ground and see if sparks. Did you look at the old carb and see if it was electric choke? Oh by the way who but the battery in 180 off? put the plus side to the fuse box side then one can run a shorter and cleaner looking set up +power to the starter. the Neg is a short run to the head by the fuel pump. Get a Positive red batt cable with the short lead comes attached and routes to the fuse box and looks stock. where is the 12volts of the choke coming from? better be a switcable 12volts I see there was a black coil and now a blue coil. So you put the correct type in there??????????? a point coil needs a ballast otherwise it will get hot running at full 12/14volts. a eletronic coil can run with out a ballast say a 78/79 datsun 620 coil. that s cool truck hate to see another lost on ratsun Edited February 10 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
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