The Real MVP (Minimum Viable Product)

[1001001SOS]

5 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

If you have access to 3d printing anywhere (some hobby shops and local libraries are offering this if nowhere else), you can print new visor locking clips.

https://www.mito3d.com/en/3d-models/print-details/1535382/güneşlik-klip-nissan-datsun-720-kamyon

 

 

 

I do have a printer, unfortunately that looks like a different style but thats awesome! I didnt think of printing things like this or hose/cable brackets and things. I don't use my printer much because it's kind of a pain in the ass honestly, youre right though it's easy these days to get something printed or get access to a decent printer for cheap.

[bilzbobaggins]

It been forever since I laid eyes on them but I believe I have a set of those wheels.  Nice to see more folks in Georgia doing the gods work.

[1001001SOS]

Spent most of my garage time this weekend cleaning up and organizing things since it was getting a little out of control.

 

Managed to get the old wheels off without breaking a single stud. Pretty excited about that 🙂 

 

 

Pretty much what I expected in here, maybe in a bit better shape though honestly. No leaks that I noticed immediately and pads on the front look decent. 

 

I'm debating what to do here. On one hand I want to replace everything with new dropped spindles and D21 brakes, drop leafs in the back, basically upgrade it all. On the other hand, this looks decent so might as well just get what I have working as it is.

 

While I chew on that I tested out the temporary rollers. I had these wheels in High School but thought they were 16's? Guess not, lots of sunken sadness in the back also but it's fine just for now:

 

 

Check out the amazing tire selection it had to start, will be good to give the girl some matching shoes:

 

 

 

 

Got the carb swapped out also, found more fun stuff as I got deeper into it:

 

 

 

The sacred Jedi texts! Got the new carb mounted up, had to whip up this quick throttle stop but I think it will work okay:

 

 

 

Not sure what to hook where on the new carb as the ports arent matching the FSM, at least not directly. I have it like this right now but don't think it's right.

 

I have these three ports on the carb, currently hooked like this:

 

 

 

Note that the bottom port on my triple nipple deal off the manifold is broken off.

 

Still, not sure what's "correct" here or if it will all really matter that much. Figure I can try it like it is and see what happens but if anyone has any pointers definitely let me know! I think I need to put manifold pressure to the one that is currently routed to itself in the first pic, then have ported pressure and vent for the others? 

 

And big props to the MVP for the weekend:

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[1001001SOS]

I have literally no idea what I'm doing but hey, it runs!

 

https://i.imgur.com/mw4ogg1.mp4

 

It started idling pretty high but a throttle blip got it to settle down to what you hear here. I think this is normal so I was happy it worked. Pretty excited, going to read more FSM and get an air filter sorted ASAP.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[datzenmike]

 

The front hose is connected directly to the distributor vacuum advance and to the Purge fitting on the charcoal canister. The TVV thermal vacuum valve is broken so don't even worry about it. That T with short hose to the intake must be removed and sealed. Do you have the stock air filter with the large hose down to the exhaust manifold??

 

The rear hose is for the EGR but there should be a T at the carburetor base with a hose going to the rear to the EGR and although connected properly to the TVV, the top opening is plugged with the blue thing and won't work anyway. Unless you want the EGR working just leave it alone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[1001001SOS]

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The front hose is connected directly to the distributor vacuum advance and to the Purge fitting on the charcoal canister. The TVV thermal vacuum valve is broken so don't even worry about it. That T with short hose to the intake must be removed and sealed. Do you have the stock air filter with the large hose down to the exhaust manifold??

 

The rear hose is for the EGR but there should be a T at the carburetor base with a hose going to the rear to the EGR and although connected properly to the TVV, the top opening is plugged with the blue thing and won't work anyway. Unless you want the EGR working just leave it alone.

 

Thanks Mike I was hoping you would reply back so I could jam on it today.

 

The TVV thermal vacuum valve is broken so don't even worry about it. - Thank you, I couldn't find the real name of the "triple nipple thing" so this helps a ton haha

 

That T with short hose to the intake must be removed and sealed. - So remove the T and connect the line from the carb to the distributor directly and plug the manifold port?

 

Do you have the stock air filter with the large hose down to the exhaust manifold?? - I don't have any air filter at the moment. I have one coming in the mail this week from a 1200 that looks like it has a larger crank case port and smaller one. I'm hoping it will fit the carb opening as-is, decided to take a shot since it was a good deal and I liked the size/look.

 

The rear hose is for the EGR but there should be a T at the carburetor base with a hose going to the rear to the EGR and although connected properly to the TVV, the top opening is plugged with the blue thing and won't work anyway. Unless you want the EGR working just leave it alone. - I think these are the only things coming out of the carb at all, there is a manifold port that goes to the brake booster but I am pretty sure that's all (aside from that one short line that goes out of and into the top of the carb). 

 

Appreciate the help and good vibes from everyone, super amped on the old girl today!

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[datzenmike]

All the TVV does is prevent EGR and vacuum advance until the engine is warmed up. The top fitting just goes to the air filter and allow filtered air in. When cold both vacuum signals present in the EGR and the vacuum advance are destroyed by this air leak. When the engine warms up the EGR and vacuum advance air leaks are sealed and the vacuum signals go to the EGR and vacuum advance on the distributor. Over all there is no EGR or vacuum advance signal at idle anyway.

 

The manifold port is used to send a vacuum signal to the ATC (air temperature control) on the air filter snorkel. This vacuum servo motor blends hot exhaust warmed air with air from in front of the radiator regulated by a sensor in the air filter to keep it tightly controlled at around 100F. This way the engine runs consistently like it's July all year round. I don't know how well this is going to connect with a 1200 air filter.

[1001001SOS]

Nice nice, thank you once again. This helped a lot. I capped the manifold port and T, it acted much better. It started and idled high, settled down after a throttle blip to about 1200 or so (hard to tell) and then down again. Still high and a little rough, and rich, but acting much better. Yet to do plugs and a compression test, thats planned for later and I will see how it starts cold then.

 

I am not trying to run it a whole lot since I have to pull the carb off again to double check the studs and locktite them anyway. The nuts were very questionable with the riser that I had, some barely halfway threaded, so it did not go entirely as planned.

 

 

I left the throttle cable and stop I added out of the way for now

 

 

This screw (I think idle speed) I did finger tight and then about half a turn out:

 

 

The P.O. said the solenoid in the upper right here came undone and he lost power braking, which seemed weird looking at it but I havent checked (Edit, wait that would be a big leak right before the booster, thats bad):

 

 

EGR blockoff here on the manifold?

 

 

Cheers, thanks again!

Edited October 2, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[1001001SOS]

Tried to check compression last night but I ran into a bad case of "While I'm In Here" disease and messed with the coils and other small stuff instead.

 

P.O. had cut the brown wire going to one of the coils and used this little jumper to power that coil off the other coil (I think?):

 

 

It was looking a little janky in this corner of the bay, but I don't know enough to know why they would do this, just that it worked. So I re-did it to make it safer but left the connections as-is:

 

 

Running low on hardware and things so I had to re-use some old ceiling fan bits 😄 

 

 

 

Next I wanted to look at the center console. The gauges arent working and it's in really bad shape. Somehow the gauge setup looks brand freakin new (hell yeah) but it wasnt hooked up so Im guessing that was for a reason.

 

 

I had an idea to use a little shift boot insert from a mk5 VW Golf I found on ebay. It looked pretty close to the right size and shape when I saw it online, so for $18 shipped I decided to take a chance. I think it is going to work out, actually, and I am going to try my hand at interior painting with this console so it should be a fun time! Maybe I will add a cup holder too 🙂 

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

The intake coil is powered directly from one of the fusible links (through the ignition switch) the exhaust coil is powered from the first fuse on the far left of the fuse box and it and the next four fuses are powered through the ignition switch in the on position. The fuse may have blown and the PO didn't know to check it.

 

Volt and oil pressure gauges...

Look up under dash on right side of heater controls for the plug into the dash harness. If truck came without gauges it will be taped up but should be there. Only thing is the oil pressure sender has to have two wires to it. This one...

 

 

The wire is likely in the harness out to the engine, but won't be on the mini harness that goes from it to the transmission switches, starter solenoid and oil pressure switch. You may have to fab something here.

 

 

 

[1001001SOS]

Ahhhhh dang, well I think the whole sub harness may be 4WD-specific, I see the Y/G wire to the sensor but I don't see the Y/L wire as far back as the connector by the battery. Will take a closer look when I come back to fix this little break in the Y/R wire here (tach signal? Need to figure that out in a bit anyway).

 

The P.O. added an aftermarket pressure gauge/sensor here so I will see about swapping in the OEM two-wire sensor. I still need to check under the dash for the other side of the harness but I can just run it manually if needed.

 

 

 

As for the coil situation, the Brown wire at the coil doesnt have power with the key on. I checked the 10A fuse in the kick panel with my meter and the fuse is good, shows 13v on both sides. Looking at the schematic it appears this is tied into the A/C system upstream in the harness, so I am thinking the P.O. messed something up when they removed the A/C stuff. Will need to look into it later.

Edited October 3, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[datzenmike]

Only thing on the first fuse is the exhaust coil. Try swapping a 10 amp fuse from another location first.

[1001001SOS]

Cool cool will do, thanks Mike.

 

The delivery driver came and I got all excited for my new grill! And then...

 

 

Womp womp 😞 Seller apparently has the right one still so that's good at least. Not sure what this one is from, maybe a B310 or something?

Edited October 3, 2023 by 1001001SOS

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

That ain't gonna work.

[datzenmike]

Sort of looks right. Maybe somewhere in the world the 720 changed to single rectangular lamps??? Some had dual 5 3/4 round ones and the grill complimented that.

 

See wayno's post...

 

[1001001SOS]

Kinda looks like a Mighty Max 😎

 

 

[bilzbobaggins]

Looks like an old person borrowing some eyeglasses 

[1001001SOS]

I've been working on things here and there but not making too much progress overall. Got the brake booster and MC pulled out tonight so I can start on fixing up this corner of the bay. Will probably take out the clutch MC also to make it easy. I did fight the brake lines a bit but not too bad, I think I can get by without replacing any flares:

 

 

 

New D21  booster:

 

 

Also got the 1200 intake delivered and.....it doesn't fit. Not yet anyway, but I have a plan:

 

 

 

Started treating the taillights and filter box using Rustoleum Rust Dissolver and it went pretty well. A few things need a second pass but a lot of that was me being lazy I think:

 

 

[1001001SOS]

Quick pre-weekend update!

 

Clutch MC is off and Im ready to start prepping this area. It looks like this bracket stand for the brake lines is bolted through the bottom before undercoating so I have to pull that off still. The fluid was baaad, glad I will be flushing this out.

 

Speaking of, check out the nasty brake stuff! I vacuum siphoned the brake fluid from each corner and filtered it to see the gunk. Very happy I am going through this also, replacing the calipers/rubber lines is next on the list.

 

 

 

[1001001SOS]

 

On 10/3/2023 at 8:52 AM, 1001001SOS said:

P.O. had cut the brown wire going to one of the coils and used this little jumper to power that coil off the other coil (I think?):

On 10/3/2023 at 11:42 AM, datzenmike said:

Only thing on the first fuse is the exhaust coil. Try swapping a 10 amp fuse from another location first.

 

I think I "figured this out" yesterday, the truck didn't have a fuse in the #2 slot! Added a 15A in there and the brown wire started getting 12v.

 

It's making me wonder why they pulled the fuse and jumped power to the coil. Parasitic draw, or a roadside fix, or who knows.  I left the battery connected overnight and it's still at 13v, will check again tomorrow and see if it drops at all and wire in the coil like factory if not.

 

 

[1001001SOS]

It has been slow going on the truck as I research more and collect parts. I had forgotten how much fun it is to struggle on a project like this, and staying motivated lately has meant taking shit apart and getting into 10 different things at once haha. The best kind of plan!

 

The brakes have proven to be more of a challenge than I anticipated, and I am kind of regretting not just slapping in the new master cylinder and seeing what happened. I still technically could and ride around on it. But I got the area prepped for treatment and paint so once the new booster and MC are in I can decide. Was glad this looks to be all surface rust:

 

 

 

The opposite corner was not so lucky. Probably going to scrape/treat/paint all this and figure it out later:

 

 

 

Got a cheapo bumper from ebay and some Home Depot hardware. Including the free brackets I scored with my seat, I am into this for about $100 which isn't too bad for how it looks. 

 

Also finally got my new chromie grill!!

 

 

 

Nawwwww yall know me better than that by now 😄 This was in the bed with a bunch of other junk. I feel like I barely bought this in time, it was real close to being clapped out.

 

 

 

Actual new grill and some other stuff is waiting to get cleaned up. I'm either going to sand/prep/paint this center console black and likely regret it, or pnu up $200 for a black unit from the web. Jury is still out.

 

 

 

And speaking of free junk, the P.O. had this cluster sitting in the bed of the truck with the rest of the trash. I have no idea why they would waste hundreds of dollars letting good OE parts like this and the A.C. stuff rot away, then spend cash on a terrible grill and fender mirrors.

 

 

 

The clock looks like it is salvageable maybe but I am not going to hold out hope on that tach. It's a shame because these are over hundred bucks untested on the web 😕 

 

Bonus points for cutting out the resistor also: