67 RL411 brake, suspension and steering help

[T411E]

Just looking for options on brakes and suspension. New to Datsuns.  Picked it up about a month ago. All original, put about 1200 miles on it so far but would like to start coming up with a plan for the winter.    I found front pads but not rotors, I’d like to see about converting the rear drums to pads.  Any ideas? It sat for 15 years covered in a garage before I got it. All the bushings under the car are dry rotted.  I’d like to see what options are out there. I’m fine with keeping it original or upgrading… 

[KELMO]

Good looking car.

Don't know a lot about these (even though I have one), but there are a few around here that do. I think there was a thread just a short while ago about some of the front end bushings.

 

There, I've been absolutely no help whatsoever, once again.

[MikeRL411]

Looks very good! Please take good care of it. I bought mine new in Great Falls MT and still have it.  As you may know Datsuns of this vintage are very rust prone so no winter salted road driving if you want to keep it pristine looking! The roof is very susceptible in the rear corners as there in a low spot with no drainage hole there.  Good luck!

[MikeRL411]

Bushings? See the Steele catalog for ideas and buy all the GE Black silicon rubber tubes you can find. Many bushings can be rebuilt with repeat layers of Silicon rubber [like the exhaust pipe suspension hanger]. Sway bar bushings may be replaced with solid silicon rubber units although this will stiffen up the ride. not a bad result by the way.

 

Engine mounts are NLA and are different left to right. If needed plea your case to a local tire recapper and have existing units rebuilt.

 

Water pumps are also NLA, but roadster pumps can be modified to fit if you have good engine mounts [the clearance between the radiator and water pump shaft is scary].

 

Brake master cylinders are also NLA but "Datsun Parts" sells a JDM 1500 roadster master cylinder for the JDM 1500 roadster that fits exactly but has a smaller fluid receptacle, but it works and if you are not going to race or climb Pike's peak will work well. The site warns that the fluid outlet is on the wrong side {for JDM roadsters] but that is the right side for export cars. You could transplant the existing unit's receptacle if you wish.

[bananahamuck]

I am by no means an expert on rare parts ,, but I think those round holed hubcaps are worth a small fortune .. 

 

 

 

i would protect them with force if needed.

 

 

. 

[bananahamuck]

Lets see some motor pics

[T411E]

Thanks for the info. More pics to come. I was actually given a spare hubcap in prestige shape. Only real cosmetic issue is front driver seat is worn but other than that no rust, all original. 

[Greaser2]

Front brakes:  Very limited options, Blue hands use to make an upgrade but he's no longer.  You will need to stick with what you have.

Rear brakes: I've never heard of anyone putting disks on the rear.  Since to do this correctly, you really need to convert the entire brake system starting with a 2 pot master which is very difficult and likely impossible if you want to run factory air box.  I have one car with upgraded front rotors but its not much different from one with factory setup.  The trick for me is to run the rear drums as snug as possible and that seems to help with braking just fine.  The rear brake cylinders are difficult to find so don't mess with them if they are working fine.  

 

Suspension rubber.  You will need to stalk ebay for the tie rod ends, you will likely need lower ball joints and maybe upper.  These are getting harder to find and prices are climbing.  Lower ball joints and front right outer tie rods are rare.   Inner tie rods are easy to find, and left outer.  I would start here.  Inspect the lower and upper ball joints for play.

 

Steering crosslink, don't mess with it unless its obviously a problem.  Its probably ok, but again, no options to make better.

 

End links bushings:  Buy z-car end links and bushings.  The bushings will need trimmed to fit and on the end links use the z-car bushings on the original shafts and spacers.

 

Again, start with replacing the tie rod ends, these will make the biggest improvement unless your ball joint are loose.    

[T411E]

Thanks for that info, that definitely points me in a direction. Appreciate that.  I need to really go through it. Everything is working but the brakes don’t inspire a lot of confidence, steering is pretty loose, and overall just want to get it to where I can feel somewhat reliable. 

[Greaser2]

Try new brake lines on the front and tweak the rears tighter.  There is a square plug on the inside of the rear shield, 1/4 wrench to adjust the rears. Just one click can go from snug to tight.  May take a couple of tries to get it right.   And tie rod ends on the front should help the steering.  

[MikeRL411]

On 9/7/2023 at 5:15 AM, Greaser2 said:

Try new brake lines on the front and tweak the rears tighter.  There is a square plug on the inside of the rear shield, 1/4 wrench to adjust the rears. Just one click can go from snug to tight.  May take a couple of tries to get it right.   And tie rod ends on the front should help the steering.  

Or try my tried-and-true method, invert a quarter inch socket, insert an appropriate quarter inch Allen wrench and twist away. The square drive slot is the perfect size and won't strip any other steel that gets in the way/

[MikeRL411]

Also, No one lists the RL411 in parts store [or Nissan] computers so you will need to reference 1968 510 parts lists to find actual front brake pads. Even Nissan lists show the 411 series as VWs.

[MikeRL411]

On 9/5/2023 at 4:37 PM, bananahamuck said:

I am by no means an expert on rare parts ,, but I think those round holed hubcaps are worth a small fortune .. 

 

 

 

i would protect them with force if needed.

 

 

. 

The original 1500 roadster also used these "porthole'' wheel overs which makes them very desirable. 13-inch wheels and wheel covers are hen's teeth rare these days not to mention 13-inch white wall tires. The last asking price for a set of porthole wheel, covers that I saw was $600! It was a fake ad but gives you a ballpark to judge cost of replacements.  I also have a spare cover and guard it like a hawk.