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Lift Kits differance 84 4x4 vs 87 4x4


frankendat

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I have 4.375s. It's OK now but 4.88 should put me about the same with 33s. The rabbit hole starts with changing ring gears. Then as long as you are in there, limited slip diff, High Steering conversion, bearings, brakes, brake lines then custom driveshafts plus suspension components. Springs, engineering shocks mounts. Nobody knows what you are talking about so you have to figure it out yourself. My estimates are way under but if you want a civilized non mud truck better start with about 5k set aside for the project. A lot less if you can find a complete good condition donor but good luck with that.

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19 hours ago, frankendat said:

You sure have nice stuff. Is that powdercoated? A custom jig to move it about, clean roomy cement floor shop.

I swapped out Asin for Warn lockout when I had an FJ40. Fine machines. Is it for a customer? Curious why no high steer since it is out and rebuilt, it seems an easy additional that becomes significantly more difficult after that axle is reinstalled. I kept mine manual steering because manual steering saved my behind on more than one occasion. Still think it is weird to see "professional" wheelers drive with their thumbs wrapped around the wheel.

Yes, client owned rig. I'm finally building two for myself that will be for sale soon.

 

Yeah, that's all powdercoated. Even the frames go out for blasting and coating now. And all hardware gets re-plated gold zinc.

 

The jig is for building axles, not really a jig, but an adjustable axle stand.

 

High steer work on spring over, but this is a 2" lift spring under rig. Many guys are not going high steer these days because that puts the tie rod up against the frame. You can get a lower ride height and still have plenty of travel if you use the stock steering arms, or a pair of flat arms from Diamond. I use the Diamond arms and then mount the tie rod underneath the arms.

 

Only once have I been on the Rubicon with no power steering, and it was hell. I blew a hose on the Rover and lost power about halfway through. But then, when you loose power on a power steering box, it is harder to turn than a normal box without power.

 

So if you're thinking of doing a solid axle swap, consider ride height. Do you want it 10" taller than stock? If so, great, because that's the easy way to build it.

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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