Truck wants to die

[justinschlaht]

Ok so I have a 75 datsun 620 stock lb20 motor only thing after market is the carb its a webber.  now this truck has bin running amazing the last 5 year this year it starting to give me problems just yesterday. I started truck pulled out of garage let it warm up for the wife as it her truck picked up mine came home now it bin running and ide good.  we get about 2 blocks away from home and its starting to lose its power were the truck is running not so good and dies now we restart it 3 or 5 time to go back home and it died each time not wanting to run right now .this has done this one other time a month ago no last time I used some sea foam in the tank and in carb, then rebuild carb,  new fuel and filter, checked to make sure there was lot of fuel pumping to the carb, I changed the point and register,  checked spark plugs was going to change coil and balance but had it running to take to car show 3 weeks ago with no problem. now its doing it all over again and does not want to keep running does anyone have a idea is it fuel or if it the distribut and points some how later. I will be changing kind to electric point instead  is there something I'm missing please help if you can just want the wife to injoy the truck this summer again  before it's parked for winter .

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you changed to many things at once you dont know if you installed a bad part.

I used to put points in and dont run ,putting the old ones back in it would run. Who knew.

 

do one thing at a time.

 

if this was running then most likely its something simple.

with point ignition you keep the stock coil and ballast resisitor. feel if hot

 

 

If you get gas squiting in carb then the truck should start cause of the fumes. then look at the elelctrical. condensor and points. make sure wires are connected good

I alwasy make sure the rocker arms are adjusted right.

 

your carb does it have a idle cut off selinoid on it.?

Is your choke open when Warm?

Is the misture correct? the brass screw at the base? It should idle fine when its correct.

 

You said 3 weeks ago at car show it was fine. Maybe maybe soemthing is breaking down?

 

make sure the intake and carb bolts are gently tight.

[datzenmike]

If it runs and restarts then not likely electrical.

 

When it quits is it like the ignition is turned off? or does it buck and stumble and slow down and die?

 

 

[justinschlaht]

It bucks and stumbles and slow down and dies

[banzai510(hainz)]

13 minutes ago, justinschlaht said:

It bucks and stumbles and slow down and dies

Letds start from beginning in the morning when cold

What exactly it does and when (timeframe)

 

distributor cap wet , cracked?

 

do what i lsited and cheack the simples stuff

[justinschlaht]

Well when we decide to go for a drive in it this last week I pulled the chock pumped fuel and fired up set to hafe chock hafe way for couple min then turn it of .then it ide for 15 mine before we left maid it couple blocks and it started to spuder and losing power then it died would start but then would die as soon as you were going to start again 

[banzai510(hainz)]

so it runs good for a couple of blocks? Correct?

 

make sure the choke flap is open when its does this!!!!

 

does this still have the stock Point coil. Not a newer low ohm coil  type that would FRY arch out the  the point ignition.

also make check this at night to see arching of the coil to ground when warmed up.

 

also when it does to conking out . Cycle the gas linkage and see if gass still quirting in the carb maybe the your running out of gas. Needle valve getting stuck closed then fills again.  tap where the gas goes in.

 

I alwasy ck for spark also if this happens take the center coil wire and plce near a nut or bolt and START and see if sparks good

[justinschlaht]

Ya we got two block this time with it.

And the chock flaps are open its a manual chock as well.

And no the coil is a different one I do have a stock looking one I bought with the ceramic register  have not put it in yet.

And yes when it's of and you step on the fuel it still sprays fuel in carb good still .and ill have to check the spark again

[banzai510(hainz)]

a stock Datsun coilis about 1.5 ohms and made to work with a ballast resisitor.

If this was changed and then it started doing this it could be it. But Im dont know what was or not changed on this truck. then if it acts up. Mosat people cahnge the coil cause it LOOK COOL then later they fly the points in the ignition .

Maybe the condensor is not grounded well.

Maybe the dist the bushing is so loose thet the points bounce. Wiggle the dist shaft side to side if it enough to open up the points that maybe could be it also.

[justinschlaht]

Ok cool ya the coil on this truck is the same one that's bin on there for the last 6 years and ran with no problems the points and condenser have bin changed .I will check on that as well in the shaft thanks

[banzai510(hainz)]

maybe ck the back side of the ballast resisior the wire is  broken and barely touching each other.

 

to me sounds like running out f gas too.  its a 50/50 till more info.

[justinschlaht]

Ya ill take a look and its hafe tank full but I'll check stuff first she if it's anything missed 

[ducky]

if it's an original, untouched tank, maybe you're clogging the pickup, and when the truck dies, the clog goes back down and lets you start it up again until it sucks up the rust again

[justinschlaht]

Hi had this tank professional clean and duncked in there tank to clean it all up maybe 6 years ago it should be good that way. But after years you never know I might be able to drain tank and see what it looks like

[datzenmike]

Drive till it quits. Pull over and look at the site glass on the front of the carburetor. This will answer the question of, is it a fuel delivery problem. If the carburetor is empty then that's the cause.

 

Poor fuel delivery to carburetor...

 

Part blockage of the brass or later plastic strainer at the banjo fitting at the carburetor

Poor pump performance. Possible loose clamp allowing pump suction to suck air in

Part blockage of the in line fuel filter

Part blockage of the fuel line, kink in replaced rubber hose.

Tank not properly vented through the tank vent line to the charcoal canister.

 

[justinschlaht]

Ya its a webber carb no site glass .

 

I will look again to make sure that it's pumping had out the carb was just rebuild 3 weeks ago .

 

And I will check all that again to makes sure

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Textbook running out of fuel.

 

Disconnect the fuel hose at the fuel pump and blow air back through the hard lines to the tank.

 

Next, remove the 19mm hex plug on the underside of the the fuel inlet on the carb and check the filter screen for junk. If there is any junk on the screen, there is likely junk in the carb. Easy enough to remove the carb lid to clean it out. Disconnect the choke arm and remove the six screws holding the lid on and give the lid a whack with the blunt end of a screwdriver to break the seal on the gasket.  Be careful to not disturb the float height when removing the lid. Look down in the fuel chamber for debris. If there is debris, depending on how much, you may be able to clean it out from the top. If there is a lot of buildup, it may be carb rebuild time.

[justinschlaht]

Ok well I will look at that for sure and blow back into the tank the carb its self was rebuild 2 to 3 weeks ago.

And ill screen the tank fuel see what I have going out of the tank .the tank was clean professionally 6 years ago and duncked in a cleaning thank 6 years ago has ran good all the way till just this year

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Six years ago only means that the tank isn't rusty. It could be the new fuel which attacks the hard fuel lines and eats rubber hoses. I even discovered a filter that I installed months prior to be rusted on the inside from the new fuel.

[justinschlaht]

Oh ok thanks well ill check that for sure