LeDevil Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Here's my one question: The stock 510 M/C had the push rod installed inside the unit and the 280Zx unit didn't. Is there a better way of doing this then the way I did? (See steps below) Now on to the steps I took if anyone see's anything wrong or has a better opinion please let me know, As I couldn't find a write up on this and winged it. I mean come on it's just a M/C swap couldn't be that hard :D Took old M/C out (disconnected hard brake lines, disconnected rod from brake pedal) Opened box with New 80' 280Zx M/C Filled Reservoirs with Brake fluid Bench bleed new M/C Took old stock 510 push rod out "removed retaining clip and pulled out push rod" Bolted 280zx M/C to firewall with new rubber boot and Push rod in place Attached hard brake lines Put Stock push rod in place on pedal, adjusted rod for no slop and made sure it was secure "didn't really know what to do with this step" Bleed Brakes Topped off fluid Went for a Spin and Stopped on a dime Came home and had a beer or two Quote Link to comment
oregondime Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 whatd you use for a new rubber boot? i got the 280zx master myself but it didnt come with a boot.. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 I wondered the same shit I made a liite thin washer deal to hold the rod in place dunno if its gonna work though as I have to tested it yet. Quote Link to comment
oregondime Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 let me know if it works out, im not brave enough to risk it just yet lol... Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I got a new boot for the 280Zx Cylinder and I just removed the old push rod from the 510 M/C and slid it in the 280zx one with a big washer and a new snap ring to make it hold in place like stock one did. Seems to work well only issue I am having is one of my rear brakes is locking up /dragging I should have taken pics of my swap :confused: Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I got a new boot for the 280Zx Cylinder and I just removed the old push rod from the 510 M/C and slid it in the 280zx one with a big washer and a new snap ring to make it hold in place like stock one did. Seems to work well only issue I am having is one of my rear brakes is locking up /dragging I should have taken pics of my swap :confused:Are you suuuuure it's returning as far as it needs to? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 There should be about 1/4" of free play on the foot pedal before any resistance is felt. Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 (edited) Ok here's a crude drawing from windows paint... Red line is the stock 280Zx M/C washer/seal thing Green thing is stock 510 push rod thing Light Blue is my washer and snap ring set up Like I stated it works fine so far just have a hokey left rear brake :mad: EDIT: After re adjusting it there is a little more then a 1/4 inch of play I'd say almost a 1/2 inch Edited December 19, 2008 by LeDevil Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Are you suuuuure it's returning as far as it needs to? Yea I took out the washer and snap ring I put in it and still had the same problem with the one brake dragging Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I guess a 1/2" would be ok most factory settings are about half that. Try backing off the rear adjuster on the locking wheel a bit at a time until it equalizes with the other side? Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I guess a 1/2" would be ok most factory settings are about half that. Try backing off the rear adjuster on the locking wheel a bit at a time until it equalizes with the other side? The adjuster is bottomed out it won't go any lower :confused: which is why I don't understand why it's still dragging The pedal play I'm gonna guess is close to 1/2 a inch Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 If your brake shoes are worn at all with the adjusted backed off too far, when you step on the brakes, it could pop the wheel cylinder out and cause it to get stuck in a open position... Check it out, worth a look. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Could be garbage in the lines, or a failing soft line as well. Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 If your brake shoes are worn at all with the adjusted backed off too far, when you step on the brakes, it could pop the wheel cylinder out and cause it to get stuck in a open position... Check it out, worth a look. I've checked and that wasn't the case I wish it was that simple though Quote Link to comment
heirfaus Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I guess a 1/2" would be ok most factory settings are about half that. Sheesh, seems like I remember most factory specs to be close to 1/8" - 3/16". 1/2 inch is WAAAAAYYYYYYYY too much. Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 If it is then I definitely have other issues with my brakes. I figure with that much play there should be no pressure being applied unless I absolutely want it to be. Quote Link to comment
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