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280ZX M/C Swap with 1 ?


LeDevil

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Here's my one question: The stock 510 M/C had the push rod installed inside the unit and the 280Zx unit didn't. Is there a better way of doing this then the way I did? (See steps below)

 

Now on to the steps I took if anyone see's anything wrong or has a better opinion please let me know, As I couldn't find a write up on this and winged it. I mean come on it's just a M/C swap couldn't be that hard :D

 

Took old M/C out (disconnected hard brake lines, disconnected rod from brake pedal)

Opened box with New 80' 280Zx M/C

Filled Reservoirs with Brake fluid

Bench bleed new M/C

Took old stock 510 push rod out "removed retaining clip and pulled out push rod"

Bolted 280zx M/C to firewall with new rubber boot and Push rod in place

Attached hard brake lines

Put Stock push rod in place on pedal, adjusted rod for no slop and made sure it was secure "didn't really know what to do with this step"

Bleed Brakes

Topped off fluid

Went for a Spin and Stopped on a dime

Came home and had a beer or two

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I got a new boot for the 280Zx Cylinder and I just removed the old push rod from the 510 M/C and slid it in the 280zx one with a big washer and a new snap ring to make it hold in place like stock one did. Seems to work well only issue I am having is one of my rear brakes is locking up /dragging I should have taken pics of my swap :confused:

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I got a new boot for the 280Zx Cylinder and I just removed the old push rod from the 510 M/C and slid it in the 280zx one with a big washer and a new snap ring to make it hold in place like stock one did. Seems to work well only issue I am having is one of my rear brakes is locking up /dragging I should have taken pics of my swap :confused:
Are you suuuuure it's returning as far as it needs to?
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Ok here's a crude drawing from windows paint...

 

Red line is the stock 280Zx M/C washer/seal thing

 

Green thing is stock 510 push rod thing

 

Light Blue is my washer and snap ring set up

 

Like I stated it works fine so far just have a hokey left rear brake :mad:

 

Untitled.jpg

 

 

 

EDIT: After re adjusting it there is a little more then a 1/4 inch of play I'd say almost a 1/2 inch

Edited by LeDevil
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I guess a 1/2" would be ok most factory settings are about half that. Try backing off the rear adjuster on the locking wheel a bit at a time until it equalizes with the other side?

 

The adjuster is bottomed out it won't go any lower :confused: which is why I don't understand why it's still dragging

 

The pedal play I'm gonna guess is close to 1/2 a inch

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If your brake shoes are worn at all with the adjusted backed off too far, when you step on the brakes, it could pop the wheel cylinder out and cause it to get stuck in a open position... Check it out, worth a look.

 

I've checked and that wasn't the case I wish it was that simple though

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