jesusno2 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 I wanna know what ALL is involved no holds barred I want the whole truth, and nothing but the truth! Lol I know about the crossmember flip no prob their what bout motor mounts,radiator, hoses etc etc no detail left out please I hate being nickel and dimed from all the crap "forgot" about online. Yea I could searched but I want all the info in one place. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 It depends on what route you want to go, ultra cheap, modest, or all out. Like a math equation there is more than one way to get to the solution. Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 raise your hand if you want to come do my dohc swap :o I seriously want to get my car running so I can drive around in it. edit: jeff, was it you that told me to go but 620 mounts for the ka swap and see if they work? I can't remember who said that and why... Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 raise your hand if you want to come do my dohc swap :o I seriously want to get my car running so I can drive around in it. There are a few shops in the bay area that do Datsun stuff - DGR, Ermish, another that slips my mind right now... Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 There are a few shops in the bay area that do Datsun stuff - DGR, Ermish, another that slips my mind right now... I'm ballin' on a budget right now. I've decided to go back to school full time, and little to no work. I really don't want the car to rot away in the driveway and at the same time I dont think I can afford to pay the shop rates to get it going :o Quote Link to comment
Bugeye Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 what all do you have left that you need to do to get it running? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 what all do you have left that you need to do to get it running? assembly :o a few people i know have committed to come out and help, but im not sure what kind of timeframe it would be. Quote Link to comment
Bugeye Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 ahh, are you anywhere near conrad? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 ahh, are you anywhere near conrad? whos conrad? car's in union city. Quote Link to comment
Bugeye Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 conrad is sr71sss, he's in antioch, Im in Stockton Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 im assuming I have most all the major parts right? just assembly and other small stuff required? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 In a weekend it should take shape. You have the parts to bolt the engine in. Lets see some pics of the engine in there!!! :D Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Wow did this thread get high jacked! I wanna do the swap in a timeley matter but I would like a idea of what people used for parts fuel pump,radiator, running a napz Z trans or a 240 trans. Electrical running circuit breakers or fuses. Relays etc etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 ... I would like a idea of what people used for parts fuel pump,radiator, running a napz Z trans or a 240 trans. Electrical running circuit breakers or fuses. Relays etc etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Fuel pump - two popular options. External in line MSD pump is pretty common on EFI swaps. Or graft the in tank pump mounting ring, stand and baffle into your stock fuel tank. Radiator - many options. If I were to do an engine swap, I would buy the Experimental Engineering Griffin Rad & brackets (about $300) or have a stock radiator re-cored with a 3 row core at a reputable radiator shop. I did this in my current 510. I paid $285. No need to run anything other than the 240sx trans. It's a better trans all around. You can use the experimental engineering transmission crossmember to make it easy. $80 or so Icehouse did a great diagram and write-up in the how to section on the wiring. Does that help? My first 510 project thread had a lot of EFI swap info in it too.. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ok well been doing tons of homework one thing that sucks is the frt crossmember and swaybar deal. Here's a question that I've never seen posted throttle cable, linkage what do ya'll do their??? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 well, on the trucks we use the 720 throttle cable. not sure on the cars. Quote Link to comment
WagDatto Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I've done two KA swaps (both dual cam, though, but I don't think they're too different in most ways). For the fuel pump, the easiest way has been to get a stock 240sx sending unit, a Walbro 255, cut the top of your fuel tank to the correct size, and bolt that sucker on there. As far as throttle cable, I THINK I used a 240sx cable because it was long enough to reach to the stock pedal. However, the pedal doesnt accept the end of the cable, so you cut the end of a 240sx pedal off (the C shaped portion that hold the cable in place), weld it onto the side of the 510 stock pedal, and it should bolt right in. I've heard stories of people using the 240sx pedal, or even like a 300zx pedal, but I can't comment on it... If you flip the xmember, the motor SHOULD bolt in on stock 510 mounts. However (from experience!) the stock 510 mounts should be replaced with new ones... Otherwise a torquey truck motor WILL break them! For a radiator, I used an older VW Rabit radiator that I bought brand new. The nice thing is that it's offered WITH a cap on the rad. and WITHOUT a cap... Now, because of where the bleeder valve is located on the KA-DE (again, not sure about the KA-E), the cap on the radiator would be too low to properly bleed the cooling system without jacking up the front of the car, etc. However, if you get the radiator without a cap, and use an in-line (I used a Moroso I bought from a local parts store), it raises the cap above the bleeder, and solved that problem. Fans are just some 10" pushers I bought and zipped on there. Hoses were stock 240sx hoses I bought new from parts store and cut to fit. You'll need to shorten the drive shaft, as well. Using the stock 240sx tranny is your best option here. If you have a 510 Wagon, using a 2 door drive shaft means NO CUTTING!! On any other model 510, you'll need to take some measurements and take it to a shop to have them shorten and balance it for you. Call them and find out what they need as far as measurements. I went 2 different places for my 2 swaps and both wanted different dimensions.... Better safe than sorry! Wiring is pretty easy! For the dual cam, it was a total of... I think like 6-7 wires that needed to be cut from the 240sx harness to make it work. All very straight forward, simple, and well-documented. Best of luck and start posting some pictures of the progress! If you're in a hurry and have a buddy, and this is both of your first times at it, it'll take you between a weekend or two, depending on what you have ready to drop in. Quote Link to comment
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