None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) This is the number one spark plug intake side after sitting there idling while I'm doing a lot of this. (Exhaust side nearly as bad) Edited February 22, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Turn the BCDD counter clockwise. It may not idle after so turn the idle speed back up. Carburetor is probably still leaking and causing that over rich condition. Never let your engine diesel. Use the clutch to stall it in gear. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Tachometer is for sure reading badly I was just doing almost 70 mph in fourth gear and it says I'm at 2000 RPMs Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, datzenmike said: Turn the BCDD counter clockwise. It may not idle after so turn the idle speed back up. Carburetor is probably still leaking and causing that over rich condition. Never let your engine diesel. Use the clutch to stall it in gear. Ok I'll do this next and I normally do stall the dieseling but I was standing in front of it and when it didn't stop after a couple seconds I was curious to see how long it would go. I have checked the carb several times and haven't seen it dripping gas again. Maybe it does just a little just after I goose the throttle. While I was waiting on your response I was checking things that I thought might provide pertinent information. That's why I pulled the plugs on cylinder one to check for fouling. Checked the timing, and at one point the number one intake plug wasn't registering at all on the light. So I swapped the spark plug for another one I had and that fixed it. Also checked the intake ignition coil and it probably needs to be replaced. Inside the socket is rusty and there's a burn to one side where the previous plug wires would back off and start arcing in there. But it works and you said don't fix it till it breaks so... I think I've solved the issue of why the the idle gets higher while driving. I'm pretty sure it's the throttle cable sticking. For that anyways. The outer coating is rotted through in a large section near the fire wall and has rust on it. I sprayed it with wd40 to try and get it moving more freely. Maybe it worked short term but I'm going ro have to replace it Edited February 22, 2023 by None_zero Improper use of their Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Maybe clean the plugs so you can see how much it carbons up next time it's out. So are both side firing now? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 The front port on the carburetor base connects to the distributor vacuum advance. See if or where the hose on the vacuum advance is going. The back port is for the EGR. It does not need to be sealed as it does not connect directly to the intake vacuum 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: The front port on the carburetor base connects to the distributor vacuum advance. See if or where the hose on the vacuum advance is going. The back port is for the EGR. It does not need to be sealed as it does not connect directly to the intake vacuum The hose in the middle that my thumb is on goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. This one the main line goes to the ab valve and the bottom one goes to The furthest spot connected directly under the gray line. And the gray line connects below the vacuum advance line on the brown valve in the first picture. I'll be the first to admit I've had these hoses in so many different arrangements and really don't know what any of them do so this was my best guess after watching a lot of videos describing these connections Edited February 22, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 If the pictures aren't indicative of location let me know and I'll clarify Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) When you say the front port... are you referring to the one just above the curved metal line that goes from the intake plenum (is that right) to the ab valve? I see what you are talking about now ok so I can fix that no problem but what about the ports on that valve? Do I just cap them because if they are open the engine races...(damn always forget specificity until i re read what I wrote... the ports o. The brown valve sticking up behind the thermostat is what I mean by "that valve" Edited February 22, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 This guy Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 1 hour ago, None_zero said: When you say the front port... are you referring to the one just above the curved metal line that goes from the intake plenum (is that right) to the ab valve? I see what you are talking about now ok so I can fix that no problem but what about the ports on that valve? Do I just cap them because if they are open the engine races...(damn always forget specificity until i re read what I wrote... the ports o. The brown valve sticking up behind the thermostat is what I mean by "that valve" I said on the carburetor base. The one with the black hose to the other port on the base. It should go to a TEE with one hose to the distributor and one hose to the bottom of the T V V (brown thing) Or just ignore the T V V and connect the distributor vacuum advance directly to the carburetor base. The T V V simply prevents any vacuum getting to the distributor till the engine is warmed up. It'll work just fine without it. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 @datzenmikeok I did hook the vacuum advance directly to the carb initially it seemed like maybe the tach was reading better. Not sure if that would effect it but anyways engine sound went a bit higher and after a short distance maybe a mile or two going about 35 I started to hear a very alarming knocking sound. That I've not heard before. I pulled over at a park to think what to do because I think this has effected the timing and I don't have my light with me. Maybe I can just move it back to the previous configuration until I get home and then I can do the t v v stuff because I kept all those hoses and ts and such. What is your advice here Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Warm it up and check the timing with the distributor connected directly to the carburetor. Idle must be below 800. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Warm it up and check the timing with the distributor connected directly to the Ok I hooked it up with the t so that it goes to where it was and to the front port on the carb. You wanted to remove the t? It made the engine much more advanced and so I've adjusted it back to 5° and I'm much closer to the original position of the distributor before the timing changed. It is hunting around a little so it will be at 5° and then drop to like 2° and then back occasionally Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Ok it was at 5° then it went to 0°. So I adjusted it back thinking it must have wiggled since I didn't tighten it back down. Then it was at 5° sometimes and the mark vanished for several seconds other times and I'm hearing a fast knocking from down by the oil pump that cannot be good Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 (edited) It sounds like metal hitting metal at high-speeds inside a housing..... kind of a never mind ill never be able to accurately write the sound with letters thats not in my skill set at all Edited February 22, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 You see though why I'm in so much trouble with this thing? Somehow I've made it run passablly well (gas mileage aside) and everything that gets put back right makes everything go berserk and seem wrong... Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 (edited) My first thought is omg what if I put the oil pump in wrong. But I swear on everything holy I did it exactly as you described and it was fine after that if memory serves at all. As I recall you were quite adamant that any deviation would be catastrophic and so I was meticulous about it. Edited February 23, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 When it comes to engines... everything affects everything else. 22 minutes ago, None_zero said: Ok I hooked it up with the t so that it goes to where it was and to the front port on the carb. You wanted to remove the t? It made the engine much more advanced and so I've adjusted it back to 5° and I'm much closer to the original position of the distributor before the timing changed. It is hunting around a little so it will be at 5° and then drop to like 2° and then back occasionally Well there should be no vacuum advance at idle, so if it advances when connected, the throttle must be too far open. The port for the vacuum advance is above the throttle plate it idle. As you step on the gas the plate rises above the port and exposes it to manifold vacuum below it. Perhaps something is holding the engine back and the speed screw is turned up too high just to keep it idling? Is it still running rich with bad gas mileage? How did you join the wires that were cut? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 4 minutes ago, None_zero said: My first thought is omg what if I put the oil pump in wrong. But I swear on everything holy I did it exactly as you described and it was fine after that if memory serves at all. As I recall you were quite adamant that any deviation would be catastrophic and so I was meticulous about it. Any deviation and it won't start or run poorly. The pump spindle and distributor are correct. The extra twist to set timing is probably the vacuum advance that shouldn't be there. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 42 minutes ago, datzenmike said: When it comes to engines... everything affects everything else. Well there should be no vacuum advance at idle, so if it advances when connected, the throttle must be too far open. The port for the vacuum advance is above the throttle plate it idle. As you step on the gas the plate rises above the port and exposes it to manifold vacuum below it. Perhaps something is holding the engine back and the speed screw is turned up too high just to keep it idling? Is it still running rich with bad gas mileage? How did you join the wires that were cut? Ok I'm not 100% I followed all that. But let's start with the easy stuff. I only drove a short way before returning it to the configuration we had this morning because it was running like crap and making a very bad sounding noise. I drove home and set it up where the line comes of the front carb port into a t, one side goes to the hardline that connects to the vacuum advance. The other to the middle port on the brown valve (I don't know that is the correct port there either unless you are saying it is) when i did it like this and when I went straight from vac advance to carb it did change the timing. I adjusted the idle set screw and timing alternately until It was 5° and 700ish rpms but as I was watching it went back and settled at zero advance and then started skipping where the timing mark couldn't be seen. Also it began making that fast tapping down by the oil pump area. At which point I cut it off and posted so I don't know about running rich or mileage yet. The wires that were cut (which was the entire harness, just to the right of the steering wheel where it goes behind a plate on the inside of the fire wall) I reattached in a variety of fun ways mostly with wire nuts until I remembered I had a giant container of those crimp kind that look like an orange button on a clear housing with two holes at one end, filled with dielectric grease or whatever... then I started using those. It was a nightmare and I know I need to go back in and solder everything but I wanted to be damn sure all the connections were right first because for a while I'd realize something wasn't working and have to swap them around. Over and over until finally all the lights come on when the correct control is manipulated I think they are all correct except one which I couldn't find a place to attach and only realized a few days ago is probably the wire that lights the dash. Because the dash isn't lighting. As to the speed screw. I was thinking something similar earlier today except it was more along the lines of maybe i ended up with the idle set way high or low to match the timing which isn't right. But I think the vacuum advance issue shoots a hole in mine but yes I think you're on to something there. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 (edited) I should add. After thinking about it the last time I messed with the vacuum lines which was last summer I think. I'd gotten so frustrated trying to figure out where they were supposed to go I just started capping them and see what happens capped everything that had no effect at idle and swapped the rest driving a little between each change until I found something that worked so they are probably all wrong. The only one i was fairly certain about was the fuel purge line which I assume allows air into the gas tank so the gas can flow freely out. Edited February 23, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 (edited) So I wonder if the best thing to do is make sure all those lines which is only like 2 or 3 now I think. Go to the right place. And/or cap them. And then start it up and see if the timing holds steady or how it performs? So we've knocked out two already the front and side of the carb. One is egr which is deleted and you said doesn't even require capping. The other goes to vacuum advance,which ts into the brown valve so that it can idle without the advance. That leaves the two ports coming out of the manifold which I capped on each other the same way I had the egr/vacuum advance. The other two lines of the 3 hard lines which both go-to the purge canister and something else. I'd have to go look but it's raining right now so I'm eating dinner before I get back to work I should have both the 83 and 84 fsm in about a week. That should help a lot also if I make it that long lol Edited February 23, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 The vacuum advance goes to the bottom port on the brown TVV or thermal vacuum valve. This is the charcoal canister. All it does is store evaporated gas fumes from the tank when engine is off. The purge signal is usually connected to the vacuum advance and tells the canister to allow fumes out a separate vacuum line to the intake. This sucks the fumes into the engine to be burned. Everything is fine as long as no vacuum leaks and hoses are in correct location. Hang on... may have figured out where the vacuum on the vacuum advance is coming from. Where does the top hose with the gear clamp go??????????? Should go to the air filter housing and open air. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 Ok the top port does go to the air cleaner housing in the bottom the port is in the recessed circle just to the left of the carb when the housing is mounted Quote Link to comment
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