Wiring Issues

[510_dreamin]

I am having an issue with my wiring after installing dual electric fans. 
 

I first put the power to the alternator where the previous electric fans were and when I put the ignition on it burned the fusible link. 
 

To troubleshoot, I ran the power to the battery for the fans, turned on the ignition and it burned another fusible link. 
 

I then disconnected the power and ignition connections for the fans, and the fusible link started to smoke again but I was able to save it this time. 
 

The fans, if you remove the fusible link and just run them by grounding them, work well. 
 

The wire from the starter to the fusebox also seems to smoke. 

Any ideas how where to go to get the wiring right?

[banzai510(hainz)]

why dont you use a relay to power the fans.

 

I think the later 510s have a airconditioner  wire on the bottom of the fuse box underneath that turn on with the key and use that to power the relay and use the stater lug to power for the +power

 

16 hours ago, 510_dreamin said:

To troubleshoot, I ran the power to the battery for the fans, turned on the ignition and it burned another fusible link. 

this I dont get why would it burn up the fuseble link?????????????  if the power is ran on a different circut to the fan

 

 

I never use the output of the alternator plus to hook up another circut this is white trash ugly.

 

 

Hope you didnt ruin the wire harness. Seems like 510 guys do this and make the car worthless after awhile.

 

 

a 3 row and stock fan/pump should be fine also

Edited September 2, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[510_dreamin]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

why dont you use a relay to power the fans.

 

I think the later 510s have a airconditioner  wire on the bottom of the fuse box underneath that turn on with the key and use that to power the relay and use the stater lug to power for the +power

 

this I dont get why would it burn up the fuseble link?????????????  if the power is ran on a different circut to the fan

 

 

I never use the output of the alternator plus to hook up another circut this is white trash ugly.

 

 

Hope you didnt ruin the wire harness. Seems like 510 guys do this and make the car worthless after awhile.

 

 

a 3 row and stock fan/pump should be fine also

It’s through a relay. I’m using a SPAL 185 fan wiring kit. 
 

The car previously had electric pusher fans that didn’t cut it and they were powered at the alternator. 

I did some trouble shooting on it, and it appears that one of wires from the starter and alternator to the fusible link may be the culprit. 
 

Do you know what the fusible link protects?  Or what is sending it energy when the key goes on?

[datzenmike]

The 510 fusible link protects everything but the starter.

 

You can tap power anywhere BUT the fuse box side of the fusible link because obviously it draws way too much for it. Run off the alternator or starter lug or even off the battery positive post (subject to it not looking too ghetto) but you must run it through a fuse capable of handling what ever the fans draw when they turn on... and they draw a LOT when they turn on. I have two Subaru fans and a 50 amp fuse. Battery wire (all 10-12 gauge) is only 4 inches long then fuse then relay then fans. They are wired on at all times. This allows the fans to come on after the engine is shut down and reduces heat soak boil overs. I have a temperature switch in the radiator return hose from a Sentra 200sx with the SR engine. I think 190F setting. 180 thermostat. Gauge reads normally just above 1/2 and fan comes on at 2/3. At long enough idling the fan comes on for almost 10 seconds, off for 30... repeat.   

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont like running off the alt output my self as it look ghetto.  the alternator goes thru the fusable link( I THINK) so maybe thats why it was getting hot.   If at Starter lug the fancircuts should just be battery and ground via your relay

 

Mike pretty much covered what I want to say.  I would hook up at staterter lug and I dont know why it would melt the fusible like it you had hooked it up at the starter or right at top with the batter(since both really the same)

[510_dreamin]

Finally got to the bottom of the issue. One of the connectors on the ignition module was reversed, causing the short. When fixing it was discovered the ignition module male connector was broken so a new matchbox ignition module and it should be back running. 
 

Any particular ignition module better than another? Are the ones sold at rock auto for example ok? 

[datzenmike]

So you have a matchbox distributor? It runs so it can't be reversed just a bad connection or open not a short. How much are the EI modules at RA???? because you can substitute an HEI module from a GM car. I think they can be 'free' at a wrecking yard to $15-$20.

 

 

[510_dreamin]

They’re quite pricey. $120 there. $160 on eBay. 
 

what’s the GM substitute?

[datzenmike]

Well you will have to wire it in but saving $100 to $120 makes that alright. NAPA or Auto Zone, Rock Auto whatever, should have them cheap. If your auto wrecking yard has '80 and '90s GMs in it get one from the top of the distributor.

 

 

 

Ignore the 'non matchbox' distributor and the '1.6 ohm coil'. If fails to spark reverse the W and the G connections. Make absolutely sure that the module is GROUNDED.

 

 

 

[thisismatt]

Easier to find the 4 pin version in the early 80's.  They're on rockauto...

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,1982,c1500+pickup,4.1l+250cid+l6,1143199,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

[510_dreamin]

What about this one?

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/import-direct-ignition/import-direct-4-terminal-ignition-control-module/odi1/140107/v/a/8235/automotive-truck-1979-nissan-620-pickup?q=Ignition+module&pos=0

[datzenmike]

That should work.