imtb Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I just adjusted my valves and the start right up but dies as soon as I release the key, I just tried holding the key in the on postion and it keeps running. Any body have any idea what this could be. I have a MSD box and coil, no points. Please help I am desprerate, I went from couldnt even get it started becasue the valves where so far out now It wants to start but wont stay running. thanks, mike Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 If nothing else was touched the ignition switch sounds bad. Take apart as far as you can and spray clean/lube it. Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I'll give that a try, anything to look for? Quote Link to comment
Jason Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well, check the power on run wire for continuity also. Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Which one is the power on wire while running? Thanks mike Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I check power at the starter ok the wire underneathe the main power cable on starter from the battery nothing with the key. No power on the postion for the key oil light and charge light lights up with the key in on postion. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 what did you set the valvs at Quote Link to comment
Jason Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) Which one is the power on wire while running? Thanks mike It's either Black with a blue stripe or Black with a white stripe, I forgot exactly :o. Edited December 2, 2008 by Jason More info Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I'll take a look at it tonight. Anything else to look for? could the selinoid be bad? i was trying jump the starter with a screw driver when I was adjusting the valves could I have fried the something? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) Blk/wht wire !!!!!!!!!!!!!! this will take less than 20mins to fix!!!!!!!!!!!! if its not the key switch. on the 510 realm you said you had 12volt at the WR wire under the key switch. Maybe disconnect that plg put a jumper from the WR to the BW wire then go see if there is 12volts at the end of the BW wire where it would have hooked up to the Coil. if there is 12volts there then its the switch more than likely. But remember I told you to disconnect the BW wire from the coil when cking for the 12volts. I do this to make sure its isolated from the coil just to make sure the coil is not like Fucked and shorted to ground or something causing you to loose the voltage. Now go ck the BW wire by pulling it and put a meter on there. put key to ON and see if 12volt if NO then there is a proplem. Wiggle the key switch ect as I told you before on the 510realm Edited December 3, 2008 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Ok I double checked the plug the White/Red power with key on Blue Black power with key on Black/white Powe with key on Black/yellow nothing this goes straight to starter Black/Blue Nothing with key on. I dont have a wire running from the ing. swicth to coil. I have two wire out of the msd box to the coil orange+ side and black. - ground. I know before that MSD box was getting power from the ing. switch on the run postion. There is no power where that wire is hooked up. I am worried about making a jumper wire that i could fry something out. Would you want to call me on my cell 314-550-4892. Maybe we could get this straightend out. It hight noon right now. Thanks mike Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) this is what I wrote on the last respones on the REALM The BL wire should have 12v only on the START position ONLY & the BW will have the 12volt when key is goes back to ON. You put the connector back on the key switch correctly? Not 180deg off? If you went to a matchbox ignition you dont need the BL wire anyways but your right the BL should have 12volts ONLY in the START position. You have a MDS unit(WHICH I FORGOT). I dont know them and wont use them. Otherwise Im out of anwsers. all I have to say is 12volts, key ON WB 12volts, Key in START ONLY, NO voltage after key goes back to ON that all that it takes to get a 510 running. your intnial post should have stated STAYS RUNNING WHILE IN "START" Edited December 3, 2008 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 Got tired to of trying to figure it out so I wired up the MSD box through a relay and she fired right up, and nothing started smoking. Dailed in the carbs and went to shut it off and it kept running. I killed it with my switch to the msd box. I am going to put in a new ignition and see if that helps. i have one dim headlight and one bright not sure what going on there. and My wipers quit working. Smothing it going on. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 the fuse box is usaully just a pass thru. Far as I know its not grounded Ck the fuses physically or put new ones in. wiggle the connectors at lights and wiper motor and at the fuse box. Most times it just a loose connection. ck the ground at the alternator and ther eis one at the voltage regualtor also. Or swap another headlamp on the dim side(just plug it in) no need to remove the bezel shroud.maybe what type of distributor you have as I was only guessing you have a match box eleltronic type.????????Or is it still point triggered? I never like the MSD as it has a high faulure rate and goes to 1 spark after 3k RPMs anyway. PS for added info if a 510 stays running when your turn the Key off disconnect the voltage regulator an usually it will shut off(bad volt reg). Of coase this is if you run the stock ext volt reg alternator. Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 I think on the not turning off I probably didnt line up the lock mark on the ingiton I am going to check that tonight. I have two Regulator looking things on the back of the shock tower by the fuse box what are the two things. One has 3 wires going to it. The other one has a plug in wire connector. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) the volt reg will have these color code wires to the connector. http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1 Im not saying that is the proplem but since you have a MSD I have no clue unless you remove it from the circut. Edited December 4, 2008 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 I'll take a picture of it tonight. I dont see where you add pics. thanks Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 photo volt reg Datsun 510 "I have two Regulator looking things on the back of the shock tower by the fuse box what are the two things. One has 3 wires going to it. The other one has a plug in wire connector" These are the highbeam relays ,at least of them is for sure Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 this is what I would do. Pull out the MSD and hook the matchbox(if that what you have ) like this. If works OK then the MSD is bad. If you do have a matchbox ignition did you ever put the correct coil in there as the later Matchbox ignition never used a Ballast resistor. So if you removed the ballast resisitor and still had the point coil this could heat up the Point coil and fry it(the insulation). OK Your on your own from Here ,as I give up Quote Link to comment
imtb Posted December 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Ok I finally got it figured out tonight. I unplugged the two white wires from the stock tach when I was trying to get that going and that what was is giving me the power to my on run position. I am really not sure why it is wired this way. It seems i need the two white wires to hook up the stock tach. Originally the two white wires hooked into the ballest resistor that hooked up to the postivie side of the coil. Now the two wires come out of the stock tach then tie into the BW and BL and this is where I am picking up my key on to turn on the msd box. (nothing was wrong with the igniton key or module) Does any of this make sense? I still want to hook up my stock tach but according to the MSD tach adapter I should use one of the white wires since they were orginally hooked up to the + side of the coil. ( but if i disconect the white wires I loose my power in the run position.) ? What are the white wires doing in side the tach to complete the circuit? Am i wrong could the green wire be the pick up wire? Anyway this is the update for now. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Your tach should go to the - side of your coil. It reads the same pulses your coil reads to fire, in order to give you an RPM reading. + side of the coil is what turns your ignition system on. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 I believe there were 2 types of Tachs. The in series type or the parrallel. But really Im no help on this as I dont have tachs and dont run them. Next time you ask for help it would be nice to include all the added crap that you have on this so we dont make this into a Xmas story or a Rock Opera 510 ignitions are pretty basic. Once you said you had a MSD I was done already. then now you have a stock tach be niced to say this in spacific detail as Most of us will ASSUME its a stock set up and are not mind readers on what you have added or installed already. I never really thought the ignition swtch was bad as I never seen one go bad. If SOMETHING(ADDED) is hooked up to the 12side of the ballast resisitor its mostly used aS THE 12VOLT SWITCHABLE POWER. I seen Morons hook up electric fuel pump power from there and who knows what else. But your on your own on this one. Byron510 on the REALM knows how to hook this up. You could PM him and he might be able to help you. Glad you got it figured out. I was just wondering was all this working before or you added stuff than had the proplems. That would be nice to tell us before hand. Quote Link to comment
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