Saturn Alternator Install - Miscellaneous Prep Pictuers

[510er]

The alternater that i took out didnt have that many wires.. so either someone hacked it prior to me getting in there or what not. I only used three wires, oh well we will see what time has to say

[Orange620]

We did the Saturn alternator mod on our 78 KC last week. It made an instant difference in the brightness of the lights. The battery had needed a charge every 3 or 4 days but its held its charge all week, no problem.

 

I got the alternator at P&P for $19 after the core refund. I was lucky to find a Saturn that was partially disassembled because the alternator is buried up against the firewall under a power steering pump and is a genuine bitch to get out. I think getting a rebuilt at Napa/Kragens, etc. is probably worth it.

 

The alternator I got had 3 wires, one to the battery, an L wire and an F wire. I hooked up the battery and the F wire and it started charging instantly. To get a switched 12v for the F, I went to the + side of the coil which meant running a small wire all the way around the engine bay. I left the relay intact on the fender well that previously connected to the alternator. I'd like to get rid of extraneous wires and relays but don't know enough to do it now.

 

My alternator mount needed very little grinding. The alternator cleared the steering idler bolt head by over an inch with no grinding at all. I did have to remove the plastic shield to get the heater hose on. I tried to use one of the 5.25" Brainerd turnbuckles for adjustment but it was way to long. I just used the original slotted arm bolted to the engine, and a short tab bolted to the top of the alternator.

 

For a pulley, I drilled out the one piece pulley that was on the Datsun alt to fit the Saturn alt shaft, so I'm 100% sure it uses the right size belt.

Edited February 28, 2009 by Orange620

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1

 

 

Hook to +side coil?????????????????I wouldnt do that,!!!!!!!!!!

 

why not the use the wires by the alternator ,that has switchable power at the alternator????????

[Orange620]

I checked all the wires that previously went to the alternator. None of them were switchable +. The existing + ones stayed hot whether the ignition switch was on or off.

 

Other than having about 4 feet of extra wire,why wouldn't you use the positive side of the coil? This is a 78 and it has an electronic ignition so I don't believe there is any type of ballast resistor present. I believe the power comes directly from the ignition switch.

 

The internal regulated alternator diagram you linked looks close to mine. I'll see if I can use it to lose the relay.

Edited February 28, 2009 by Orange620

[banzai510(hainz)]

why wouldn't you use the positive side of the coil?

 

it looks tacky!!!!!!!!! Plus I think that what the jumpers are for so when you turn the key is routes 12volts(look at the 510 drawing.) and the photo of the jumper Mike made.

 

I thought that when Mike wrote this up it takes care of everything and you dont need to do that. I think thats what the jumpers do(that why he wrote a step by step instructions to do this). I never heard of what you did to yours or anybody else doing a Saturn Swao has done).Thats how datsun end up in the back yard.

 

I seen people hook up the +12votl coil to power there eleltric fuel pump. What happen it fraws a load then either the ignition or the fuel pump coud cut out.

Some people might think you could hook up the stereo to the +12coil as that the first 12switcable they find.

 

 

 

olddatsun.com has wire diagrams for the 620 but most colorcodes are still the same (this of coarse is a 510 one)

 

from Dime quarterly

For those 510's with the simple "T" style connector into the back of the alternator, this is a pretty straight forward conversion.

 

 

THE ALTERNATORS:

The OLD (externally regulated Alternator) had the "N" and "F" connected by the plastic "T" connector.

"N" Neutral was connected by a Y (yellow) wire.

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"F" Field was connected by a W/B (White, black stripe) wire.

[This is the stem of the "T" connector]

The NEW IR ALT (internal regulated alternator) will have two connections, also in a T configuration like the old unit.

 

"S" Sense is connected to the battery (direct +12 Volts)

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"L" Lamp is connected to the Warning lamp light. This connection

has TWO functions. By Sensing the circuit is turned on when the ignition is, it will energize the alternator. SECOND: when the alternator FAILS, and the engine is running, it will GROUND this connection - providing a ground path to turn on the "ALT" warning lamp. (you should see the "ALT" lamp glow when the ignition is first turned on, before starting the car).

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)

Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

 

(This the wiring at the HARNESS, compare it to the regulator wiring, both should be the same - but some replacement units did not follow the color code).

 

Plug the connector back onto the wiring harness. Quick, simple, painless to swap back if the need every arises.

 

THINGS TO CONSIDER:

The Alternator lead to the battery may be too small to handle the additional current capability of the new alternator. (Best to use a FUSED 10 gauge wire direct from the alternator to Battery).

There is also a splice in the harness, of the alternators positive lead (white with a red stripe) and the main power line from the starter to the fusebox (white). You may want check the condition of the splice, as it is buried in the harness and, if corroded, could cause problems. [From Robert Broad]

 

For those '72 and later 510's that use an electric choke. The choke relay was energized up by the voltage that appeared on the "N" terminal of the alternator. To energize correctly, the relay was designed for the lower voltage (about 6 volts) that appeared on o the "N" while the alternator was turning (engine running).

 

You need to REPLACE the choke relay with a 12V item. Use the WL wire (switched on with the ignition) to power the relay coil. Run a power source - with an inline fuse - from the battery through the relay to power the electric choke/idle solenoid (if fitted). This lessons the current flowing through the ignition switch, and powers up the choke heating coil when the ignition is on.

 

Alternator Mounting Brackets:

Most of the IR Alternators will have 10mm holes, so use a bracket from a later series L engine to bolt up the alternator (the 510's OEM 8mm bolts had a habit of breaking).

Quick, simple, and clean installation. Also this allows for a quick return to a stock setup should you ever desire to do so.

Edited February 28, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[Orange620]

why wouldn't you use the positive side of the coil?

 

it looks tacky!!!!!!!!! Plus I think that what the jumpers are for so when you turn the key is routes 12volts(look at the 510 drawing.) and the photo of the jumper Mike made.

 

I thought that when Mike wrote this up it takes care of everything and you dont need to do that. I think thats what the jumpers do(that why he wrote a step by step instructions to do this). I never heard of what you did to yours or anybody else doing a Saturn Swao has done).Thats how datsun end up in the back yard.

 

I seen people hook up the +12votl coil to power there eleltric fuel pump. What happen it fraws a load then either the ignition or the fuel pump coud cut out.

Some people might think you could hook up the stereo to the +12coil as that the first 12switcable they find.

 

 

 

 

I agree 4 feet of wire running to the + side of the coil looks like hell, but I need a power source that is turned off and on with the key. I'm not sure how many amps the exciter circuit in the Saturn alternator uses, but the wire on the Saturn plug is only 20 gauge so I doubt its too much.

 

I looked back through this thread for a post that applies and explains which wires on a 78 620 with internal regulator that you should connect to a Saturn alternator with 3 wires(battery, L and F). I never found a post that applies.

 

The "How to Modify the Wiring" section you just reposted is for a Datsun with an external regulator. My 78 came new with an internal regulator. Those directions don't fit my truck.

Edited February 28, 2009 by Orange620

[banzai510(hainz)]

my mistake on that one as you already havea IR type wiring

 

I dont know How to do the other part but Im sure someone on here will tell u how to make it look better.

 

I seen alot of wiring jobs ans just avoid vehicles with wireing hacks

[Orange620]

"L" Lamp is connected to the Warning lamp light. This connection

has TWO functions. By Sensing the circuit is turned on when the ignition is, it will energize the alternator. SECOND: when the alternator FAILS, and the engine is running, it will GROUND this connection - providing a ground path to turn on the "ALT" warning lamp. (you should see the "ALT" lamp glow when the ignition is first turned on, before starting the car).

 

 

What I'd really like to find out is how to wire the Alt warning lamp to work like its described above.

 

The way I have it wired, if the alternator fails, it will still be getting 12v from the ignition switch.

Edited February 28, 2009 by Orange620

[az_rat210]

If anyone wants an easier change over, the 89-91 Maxima Alternator is 90 Amps.

 

You drill out the bottom hole a bit bigger to accept the bottom back bolt.

Switch the pulley over to replace the serpentine belt pulled.

Obtain the correct plug from an alternator shop (you can ask them about which wire is which for the internal requlator).

 

Attach and done. I have had no issues with it on my B210....works great.:thumbsup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

I heard the KA truck alternators(already V pully) are EZ to swap in also

just like you said

[slodat]

If anyone wants an easier change over, the 89-91 Maxima Alternator is 90 Amps.

 

You drill out the bottom hole a bit bigger to accept the bottom back bolt.

Switch the pulley over to replace the serpentine belt pulled.

Obtain the correct plug from an alternator shop (you can ask them about which wire is which for the internal requlator).

 

Attach and done. I have had no issues with it on my B210....works great.:thumbsup:

 

I bought one of these and it will not bolt up to an L series lower bracket. The spacing of the ears is not the same. It may work on the A series engines but it did not work on all 4 of the L series bottom brackets I had at the shop.

[OneFreakyMF]

hey guys ....

 

i just finished an install of a 2000 saturn SW2 alternator on my '81 720 4x4 Z22. the particular alt i have is a CS-121D. very similar wiring and had to make no modifications to the lower mount aside from having to drill out one of the lower mounts on the Alt itself. i did however have to make an adapting bracket for the slide tensioner. before starting the swap i was planning on taking a bunch of pictures and doin a lil write up about it. after removing the stock alt in 90+ degree heat i happened to notice that i was in NO condition to even think about touching my camera! so for all you 720 guys out there this saturn alt swap is just as easy if not easier. 40 bucks for a junk yard alt (make sure you cut the pigtail that goes into the Alt with enough wire to make your new connections), make a bracket, some wire, connectors, bolts, a new belt, and guess what!?! you got yourself a great new setup! my rock lights are brighter and even my winch is noticeably faster!!

 

also, i would suggest that if you do get an alt out of a junk yard.... make sure you get the donor vehicle information (year, make, model .... ), take it down to a shop and have it tested so ya dont install it and have it not work. right after i bought my alt i happened to be goin to a parts store anyways for another project. so i had them test the alt i just picked up. it was already bad!! just somethin to keep in mind ....

 

if ya have any questions i would be happy to share what i have learned ....

[heirfaus]

done back in 2007

 

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6966