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Z22 coil wiring/no spark


mikecaleb

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I see that. Thats why im here. Lol im asking can i modify the plate it mounts on to fit this one and it still function as it should? It wouldnt be nothing but drilling and tapping new holes in the plate if so. Just want to verify before i go to drilling. 

Edited by mikecaleb
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4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Holes don't line up. So no.

 

93747447-1D7F-4C4A-9235-966966D11300.thu

 

The round part on the left is the rotor. I don't see any damage but look for any or cracks.

I know its the rotor lol i was trying to upload this picture but couldnt. 

2D23B592-1D4D-4056-931D-D71F0751CAC7.jpeg
i got the underside of it a little with screwdriver. But all the teeth look decent.  Reluctor is upside down in the pic. 

Edited by mikecaleb
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F61D04C0-C411-41E0-8375-B1003B56ACBF.jpeg
 

top of it. You can see the teeth still have that squared off looking tip. Is this what matters when looking for damage on the reluctor?

Edited by mikecaleb
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The 'star thing' is the signal rotor and it looks ok as long as not cracked.

 

 Drilling new holes and tapping them might work.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The 'star thing' is the signal rotor and it looks ok as long as not cracked.

 

 Drilling new holes and tapping them might work.

 

 

ah okay. Sorry bout that and no its not cracked anywhere. What parts ,if not all, below the icm be tooken out and cleaned?

 

I dont see why drilling and tapping wouldnt work. Ill take a closer look tomorrow 

 

2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:
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I was worried that the transistor unit mounted on top of the magnet but I looked at one I have and the magnet is across from the unit with the stator on top of it and the rotor spinning between the two stator 'poles'. I see nothing to stop you doing this.

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31 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I was worried that the transistor unit mounted on top of the magnet but I looked at one I have and the magnet is across from the unit with the stator on top of it and the rotor spinning between the two stator 'poles'. I see nothing to stop you doing this.

Yep. Mine looks just the same. Thank you mike. Just what i wanted to hear. 

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Yeah I see what your missing there - you're getting that red spark because the rotor isn't producing enough capacitance. You should be producing about 1.21JWatts according to this schematic here: 1-physicistsin.jpg

 

 

 

Check to see if this part here is connected correctly to mains power

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

d7ylukm-8105f7a1-a2bf-4456-b400-570046d4

 

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2 hours ago, yoloSun said:

Yeah I see what your missing there - you're getting that red spark because the rotor isn't producing enough capacitance. You should be producing about 1.21JWatts according to this schematic here: 1-physicistsin.jpg

 

 

 

Check to see if this part here is connected correctly to mains power

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

d7ylukm-8105f7a1-a2bf-4456-b400-570046d4

 

The truck has been wired with a painless performance wiring harness. So no stock electrical components aside from dizzy, coils, alt, starter, and fuel pump. Could I substitute that part for something? Wire in a relay for each coil so they each get and keep the  12v power when needed

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In the 720 the intake coil is wired directly from a fusible link through the ignition switch. The exhaust coil is through the fusible link, through the ignition switch to the fuse box (to several things turned off and on by the ignition) where it has it's own separate fuse , the first one on the far left, and then to the exhaust coil.

 

All you need do is confirm both coils have 12v power when the ignition is on. No need for relays as this is what the ignition switch is for.

 

 

 

Not at all a fan of 'painless' wiring harnesses. Way to many ways to add hard to find problems.

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10 hours ago, mikecaleb said:

The truck has been wired with a painless performance wiring harness. So no stock electrical components aside from dizzy, coils, alt, starter, and fuel pump. Could I substitute that part for something? Wire in a relay for each coil so they each get and keep the  12v power when needed

 

Yes, you can substitute that part for one of these: 

CD7LLbgVEAAEV3W?format=jpg&name=large

You won't need the stock harness if you go this route, you won't even need roads.

 

You can see the custom harness fixed to the outside of this bad boy right here: 24fb1b51b268f087a34c86bfca4c0f57.jpg

Edited by yoloSun
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