Z22 coil wiring/no spark

[mikecaleb]

This is in a 86 hardbody with a z22 and a painless performance universal chassis harness. The only spark im getting is a tiny red one feom the coil while when grounded right when the key is turned. the intake coil has 12 volts directly from the switch. The same wire feeds 12 volts to the B terminal on the IC module. the exhaust coil is getting its power from an empty ignition powered wire slot from the fuse box with an inline fuse. the wires coming from the I and E terminals on the IC module are also connected to there corresponding coils. the cap, rotor button, spark pugs, wires, and coils are all new.

Edited April 23, 2019 by mikecaleb

[datzenmike]

It's not the stock harness so..... ? could be anything.

[mikecaleb]

Figured I'd get that response. Does it really matter though? Why couldnt you test the engines electrical components and the wires that connect to them like you could a stock harness? the same thing is getting accomplished

Edited April 23, 2019 by mikecaleb

[mikecaleb]

I believe i figured it out for myself anyhow doing what i just said above. Testing the electrical components. When i tested the primary resistance on the ignition coils they both read a little over 3 ohms. They're max is supposed to be like 1.7 something. 

[datzenmike]

They should be 0.8 to 1.0 ohms for '78 and up coils. on an EI ignition.

 

3 ohms is more like a points coil without the ballast.

 

I guess these are not stock components either? Do you have the original units? (never replace stock parts that aren't broken)

 

With power to the coils make a jumper wire to ground and briefly touch the negative terminal and release. You should get a high voltage spark from the coil.

[mikecaleb]

Not original but everything electrical on the truck is stock besides for the wiring. 

 

[datzenmike]

Even at 3 ohms you should be getting a spark. Obviously these coils are not for a Z22. Do you have the originals????

 

 

 

Try grounding the negative coil terminals. (this is what the module in the distributor does) When the ground is released there should be a spark

[datsunwhacko520]

I recommend setting ignition timing to hood sticker spec your z22 came out of. Don't advance more....run what sticker says. Hard to hear detonation/pinging over carb vac noise, good pipes(loud pipes save lives). Performance falls off too when motor reaches temp with more timing. sticker on my white 82 with z22 says 3btdc @ 650rpm with vacuum line off @ distributor. I have retarded timing a couple times when pulling trailer LOADED (10,000lbs gross combined) 100deg weather twisty road constant up/down shifting to keep hamster wheel spinning. Truck empty get rubber in third(weber homemade 2 1/8 exhaust), stuff speedo @ 100 with 5th gear to go. those engineers at nissan knew what they were doing.

[mikecaleb]

I have no idea what the engine came out of originally.  All i bought was the complete engine (manifolds,carb, front acc.) I believe he said it was out of an 81 something. It's been awhile. 

 

 I will go try grounding the negative terminals in a few.

[mikecaleb]

I had bought the coils from rock auto for a 1981 720 with a 2.2l engine. They were only 7 bucks a piece so it aint so bad i guess

 

Whats a recommended brand to use with these motors? As far as reliability goes

Edited April 23, 2019 by mikecaleb

[mikecaleb]

Yes there is a spark when you let up off the ground

[datzenmike]

Try to find the stock coils they are very reliable. Any '78 and up engine will have them.

 

 Electronic Ignition coils are 0.8 to 1.0 ohms.

 

7 hours ago, mikecaleb said:

Yes there is a spark when you let up off the ground

 

And they should. This shows that they are working properly.

 

It's odd that they don't work when the engine is turning. Is the distributor solidly tightened down???

[mikecaleb]

The distributor base is on tight but the bolts to adjust timing arent tightened down yet.

 

The chilton manual says for 81-86 vehicles the ignition coils primary circuit should have between 1.04 and 1.27 ohm resistance. And the ignition coils secondary circuit should have between 7,000 and 11,000 ohm. 

 

Mine are showing 3.01 and 3.04 ohms for the primary. And the secondary is 7,880 and 7,780 ohms

[banzai510(hainz)]

a lot may depend on the quality of the ohm meter also.

[yoloSun]

If the distributor is like the '79 620 L20b then...Is the ground wire connected to the distributor? If there is spark when you let up off the ground, then the part that functions to let up off the ground may be the culprit?

 

Keep in mind I don't know jack shit about coils on plugs.

[mikecaleb]

What would be the part responsible for letting up on the ground? Also i was thinking maybe adding a ballast resistor to tru amd bring the ohms back down and see how that works 

 

Also the distributor did not have its own ground wire. But i did add one from the base to the timing cover 

Edited May 2, 2019 by mikecaleb

[banzai510(hainz)]

adding a ballast makes the oms go UP!

[mikecaleb]

Oh well scratch that then. I fount some NOS coils and bracket on ebay for the z22 motor but there 65 dollars. I may have to break down and buy them. 

[mikecaleb]

Okay so i did another test. I put a plug in each of the coil wires while someone turned it over. I have spark going in and out like it should. The spark isnt verybig or bright but it is there. Wouldnt that rule out the device inside the distributor that controls the ground allowing spark? 

[datzenmike]

This would indicate that the module is at least, working. Your primary resistance is about 3Xs what it should be so the resulting spark will be (theoretically) 1/3 what it should be. You need coils with primary resistance near 1 ohm.

[mikecaleb]

Awesome. Thats what ive been needing to know  before i spend any more money

[mikecaleb]

So little over two years later with still no spark. I finally just bit the bullet and removed the reluctor wheel and icm. I dizzy had the 4 wire icm but i bought the 3 wire as it was cheaper and didnt realize mounting holes were different. Can i still use it? Also is this reluctor wheel damaged to the point that id need to replace it? Sorry for digging up old thread. Figured its better than starting a new one. Any help appreciated 

[mikecaleb]

[mikecaleb]

I would upload more pics but dont know how. Could someone help me out lol. Its been awhile keeps saying im only allowed 4 mb

Edited January 30, 2021 by mikecaleb

[datzenmike]

43 minutes ago, mikecaleb said:

So little over two years later with still no spark. I finally just bit the bullet and removed the reluctor wheel and icm. I dizzy had the 4 wire icm but i bought the 3 wire as it was cheaper and didnt realize mounting holes were different. Can i still use it? Also is this reluctor wheel damaged to the point that id need to replace it? Sorry for digging up old thread. Figured its better than starting a new one. Any help appreciated 

 

Holes don't line up. So no.

 

 

The round part on the left is the rotor. I don't see any damage but look for any or cracks.