yoloSun

Nope not yet! But I fixed a leaky skylight! Is it a little chief like mine? I replaced the old propane heater with a Chinese diesel heater and it's pretty nice. There is a tear down of one of these motorhomes that was done and posted up on this forum that journals the process, but I couldn't find it. Maybe one of these guys can find it?

AW that sucks bro. You probably shouldn't put things in your mouth tho, I think that's called pica - you might have a mineral deficiency. And are not the gay. Oh yeah? You in the market for mini rv?

Well that would just be the baddest little motorhome on a green light. All in all you guys have given me some good advice, I have time so I'll just bide it for now. See what options crop up.

Ah, a wise man indeed.

Cant get into Canada?!? Did you try to use free speech over here? That's a nono. Just get a really good tan, put on a dress call yourself Martha & flick your wrist, customs won't give you any trouble. They might even celebrate. Not having a working engine would be an issue for a trade, unless I had an SR20DET to drop in.

Oh wow..learn somethin new everyday. And here I thought it was standard operation to have duallies. I was thinking...I could take off the motorhome part, get a box and put a canopy ontop, then instead of welding in a new back of the cab and sourcing a window, I could leave it open. Then you would have open access to the back from the cab...could still camp even.

No, it probably had the tires removed. That is to say, it's most liekly a dually with the two extra tires taken off.

Well im not sure what mine is using, but it doesnt have duallies. I think this rv might have been used as a donor rv once upon a time. Considering the lack of a fridge, stove and 2 tires.

Thats a negative on the accessories, no fridge no stove, unknown furnace operation. the shitter still works and i replaced the water pump. I installed about 1200 in solar stuff and added a wall mount smart tv. Just being a running mini-rv is worth atleast 1000 i'd say. Minus the 1500 bucks worth of goodies.

I took a look at the classifieds here on ratsun and...2000+ is...well I'm not sure what I can get for the rv - half that atleast. Then theres the trouble of waiting for one to crop up near me (not likely) or driving across a foreign country to get one, though that sounds like a nice road trip.

Yeah, it's walkthrough. The roof of the cab will need some sheet metal bent and welded in aswell. I'm on an island soooo...sourcing becomes troublesome. I know of a probably rusted box a dude in the boonies is using as tow-behind trailer...lol😅. I could go rat style failing that, but I'd rather just have a regular truck. Im good at rat since I come from the boonies and was always surround by old rusted dead n busted stuff I had to make work. But I bet theres someone out there wants a mini-motorhome and has a Datsun.

Hey guys, considering converting my camper back into a truck, or offering to trade; I know someone did the conversion back to a truck but I haven't been able to find it.

This guy says replacing rocker arm worked: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106910-loud-tickingknocking-noise/ I actually made the ticking noise happen by setting the valve lash to 10/12 so I know I can just set it back.

Yes.

Update: The lash pads are all unseated. Observe: Besides replacing them, I guess I'll just have to press them down while setting up the valve lash. Any of you guys do this? Also some of these Cam lobes had jagged sides.

They were all too tight, tighter than 0.010 and 0.012, cold settings. Which is what I'll be keeping it at. Except exaust valve #1, that was in spec. And yeah, ham it up guys. I got my Cam and point experience from 60's motorbikes and a pack of rollies.

Thanks got it.

Hey, I'm having trouble setting the valve lash because the lash caps are in the way. Do I have to buy tiny feeler gages to fit between the lash caps opening? I was told the valve lash had been done but I'm going over it myself to be sure.

Hmm I was pretty sure the power circuit kicked in before the secondary circuit.

Yeah that's what I'd do if I didn't have a spare. I was just putting the spring on the linkage for the vacuum actuated secondary, and I wonder...what would happen if I didn't? I wouldn't mind an early shot of go juice Although it would probably just turn into a self feeding vacuum that never stops reving.

Ya thats what I'm saying, with pictures. Oh I see now, I meant to say the rod mechanism that actuates the power valve was failing, because It wasn't responding well to vacuum. Sorry, I cannot tell if the power valve is failing, my mistake, derp.

I know one is failing because - One responds easily when I suck on it, and the bad one does not.

Closed Open^ ^You can emulate high manifold vacuum here with a piece of vacuum tube.

I had not noticed that in my original post, so thanks for pointing that out. But that doesn't tell me if the plug is factory set or not. Maybe I can google k4 vs k3, but I doubt it. Another air of mystery... So far I found 1 failing power valve, and one...failed diaphragm that was prabably a vacuum leak. It was in the...uhh warmup choke linkage thingamabob. And by the way mike, those are pictures of two torn down carburators, one was a rebuilt $XXX carb, the other came with the truck.

Thanks Mike, I've been creeping you guys for a couple years now so I already knew all about that screw and your carb, was very helpful for me. I have an electronic distributor, so no need to set point gaps. Timing set to 12 btdc. Firing order set 1,3,4,2 counterclockwise Valve lash is set. I want to make sure the plugged port I pictured is not a modification, and is factory set. Is it? Not sure if you read the first bit because you repeated what I had just said, I'm interested in the piece that the power valve pushes down on - the piece I pictured in my hand. It doesn't look serviceable. I'm curious how it meters gas with one tiny hole.