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About mikecaleb

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/21/1999

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Hazel Green Alabama
  • Cars
    86.5 Nissan Hardbody frame, 95 body swap, z22 Engine
  • Interests
    Tinkering with my truck/Finding new ways to improve performance
  • Occupation

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  1. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    I know that. I am the one who swapped it in. It did have the z24i. Thats where the spare motor came from. I mentioned that it was in a hardbody because i didnt know if there was clearence issues with the hardbodies.
  2. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    I would like to keep the z22 block. Being the z24 is prone to blowing the head gasket. What would it take to get the compression up with the z22 block? And this is in a hardbody. Would the l series head with the int/exh on not hit the steering shaft?
  3. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    Well damn. Besides of a l series head swap how could i raise the compression? I also have a spare z24 motor and head for parts.
  4. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    Ive got a z22 block with the stock head. Its got a weber 32/36 and pacesetter headers. I want to bore it out to fit some of the ka24e pistons in to raise the compression. What all would be included in doing this? While ive got the head off id like to port and polish it, get some stiffer springs, and a mild camshaft. Y'all have any recommendations on the springs and cam?
  5. Awesome. Thats what ive been needing to know before i spend any more money
  6. Okay so i did another test. I put a plug in each of the coil wires while someone turned it over. I have spark going in and out like it should. The spark isnt verybig or bright but it is there. Wouldnt that rule out the device inside the distributor that controls the ground allowing spark?
  7. Oh well scratch that then. I fount some NOS coils and bracket on ebay for the z22 motor but there 65 dollars. I may have to break down and buy them.
  8. What would be the part responsible for letting up on the ground? Also i was thinking maybe adding a ballast resistor to tru amd bring the ohms back down and see how that works Also the distributor did not have its own ground wire. But i did add one from the base to the timing cover
  9. The distributor base is on tight but the bolts to adjust timing arent tightened down yet. The chilton manual says for 81-86 vehicles the ignition coils primary circuit should have between 1.04 and 1.27 ohm resistance. And the ignition coils secondary circuit should have between 7,000 and 11,000 ohm. Mine are showing 3.01 and 3.04 ohms for the primary. And the secondary is 7,880 and 7,780 ohms
  10. Yes there is a spark when you let up off the ground
  11. I had bought the coils from rock auto for a 1981 720 with a 2.2l engine. They were only 7 bucks a piece so it aint so bad i guess Whats a recommended brand to use with these motors? As far as reliability goes
  12. I have no idea what the engine came out of originally. All i bought was the complete engine (manifolds,carb, front acc.) I believe he said it was out of an 81 something. It's been awhile. I will go try grounding the negative terminals in a few.
  13. Not original but everything electrical on the truck is stock besides for the wiring.
  14. I believe i figured it out for myself anyhow doing what i just said above. Testing the electrical components. When i tested the primary resistance on the ignition coils they both read a little over 3 ohms. They're max is supposed to be like 1.7 something.
  15. Figured I'd get that response. Does it really matter though? Why couldnt you test the engines electrical components and the wires that connect to them like you could a stock harness? the same thing is getting accomplished
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