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Everything posted by mikecaleb

  1. Yes it does the clicking after a few turns. The cables and starter are still new. But I have had the battery for a few years. Just a cheap walmart battery.
  2. Im aware of that also. Just throwing it out there. That ground is for the lights and whatnot in the front This aint the stock wiring harness. It's a painless performance universal kit. Everything works as it should so far besides for the slow turn over issue.
  3. I was thinking that if i took the ign wire off the starter and measured it there with the key in start with the other probe grounded of course.
  4. I'll test the voltage at the starter before and after just to see if theres a difference. Maybe thats my problem.
  5. I know that. It had caught my attention earlier and just figured id ask. I was out looking at the truck earlier and there is an obvious ground that i somehow left out/overlooked. The battery is not being grounded to the body. It has a battery to motor, motor to frame and the little one on the firewall. The front clip is also grounded to the frame with a little strap. I got a little wire running from the distributor adjusting bolt to the timing cover too just in case
  6. I never realized it till earlier while doing some research but the z22 is supposed to have a clamp on distributor cap and a different style rotor. I have the later style on there as of right now. Is this going to cause issues?
  7. Yes it turns over slowly. And i will check and try that tomorrow.
  8. mikecaleb

    z22 grounds

    Ive got a z22 weber 32/26 swapped in a 86 nissan hardbody. It turns over pretty slow and will try to run for a split second. Im thinking i may have some ground issues. Does anyone know the grounding locations? Currently there is one ran from the battery to intake, motor to frame, frame to chassis.
  9. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    I know that. I am the one who swapped it in. It did have the z24i. Thats where the spare motor came from. I mentioned that it was in a hardbody because i didnt know if there was clearence issues with the hardbodies.
  10. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    I would like to keep the z22 block. Being the z24 is prone to blowing the head gasket. What would it take to get the compression up with the z22 block? And this is in a hardbody. Would the l series head with the int/exh on not hit the steering shaft?
  11. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    Well damn. Besides of a l series head swap how could i raise the compression? I also have a spare z24 motor and head for parts.
  12. mikecaleb

    Z22 build

    Ive got a z22 block with the stock head. Its got a weber 32/36 and pacesetter headers. I want to bore it out to fit some of the ka24e pistons in to raise the compression. What all would be included in doing this? While ive got the head off id like to port and polish it, get some stiffer springs, and a mild camshaft. Y'all have any recommendations on the springs and cam?
  13. Awesome. Thats what ive been needing to know before i spend any more money
  14. Okay so i did another test. I put a plug in each of the coil wires while someone turned it over. I have spark going in and out like it should. The spark isnt verybig or bright but it is there. Wouldnt that rule out the device inside the distributor that controls the ground allowing spark?
  15. Oh well scratch that then. I fount some NOS coils and bracket on ebay for the z22 motor but there 65 dollars. I may have to break down and buy them.
  16. What would be the part responsible for letting up on the ground? Also i was thinking maybe adding a ballast resistor to tru amd bring the ohms back down and see how that works Also the distributor did not have its own ground wire. But i did add one from the base to the timing cover
  17. The distributor base is on tight but the bolts to adjust timing arent tightened down yet. The chilton manual says for 81-86 vehicles the ignition coils primary circuit should have between 1.04 and 1.27 ohm resistance. And the ignition coils secondary circuit should have between 7,000 and 11,000 ohm. Mine are showing 3.01 and 3.04 ohms for the primary. And the secondary is 7,880 and 7,780 ohms
  18. Yes there is a spark when you let up off the ground
  19. I had bought the coils from rock auto for a 1981 720 with a 2.2l engine. They were only 7 bucks a piece so it aint so bad i guess Whats a recommended brand to use with these motors? As far as reliability goes
  20. I have no idea what the engine came out of originally. All i bought was the complete engine (manifolds,carb, front acc.) I believe he said it was out of an 81 something. It's been awhile. I will go try grounding the negative terminals in a few.
  21. Not original but everything electrical on the truck is stock besides for the wiring.
  22. I believe i figured it out for myself anyhow doing what i just said above. Testing the electrical components. When i tested the primary resistance on the ignition coils they both read a little over 3 ohms. They're max is supposed to be like 1.7 something.
  23. Figured I'd get that response. Does it really matter though? Why couldnt you test the engines electrical components and the wires that connect to them like you could a stock harness? the same thing is getting accomplished
  24. This is in a 86 hardbody with a z22 and a painless performance universal chassis harness. The only spark im getting is a tiny red one feom the coil while when grounded right when the key is turned. the intake coil has 12 volts directly from the switch. The same wire feeds 12 volts to the B terminal on the IC module. the exhaust coil is getting its power from an empty ignition powered wire slot from the fuse box with an inline fuse. the wires coming from the I and E terminals on the IC module are also connected to there corresponding coils. the cap, rotor button, spark pugs, wires, and coils are all new.
  25. Does it have a midshaft bearing? I got a 86 hardbody that was doing the similar thing. And the midshaft bearing endup up being ripped up and was floping around.
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